scam75
Well-known member
A two would be fine, still get the 5% off and halves the delivery. You still got an S2? Does the S2 have 2 outlets? Suppose you could blank one off if not.
Another 944 Turbo Engine Rebuild Thread
- Thread starter dlknight
- Start date
A two would be fine, still get the 5% off and halves the delivery. You still got an S2? Does the S2 have 2 outlets? Suppose you could blank one off if not.
Yes, still the S2 - I'll check today and get back to you...
Ah, OK, I hadn't realised there was a difference. Mine has just one outlet. I could block it, but I'm a bit of an originality stickler I'm afraid, and it would be very visible - so rule me out on this one. Sorry!
Don't let it happen again, or I will send my stealthy assassin around to sort you guys out
After the big drive I decided to check the spark plugs and have a look under the belt covers to make sure everything was OK.
Plugs all looked good, the same, with no obvious differences.
Checked under the belt covers and all was good, nice and dry and no damage on the belts.
Whilst I was nosing around the engine bay and checking fluids, I noticed the clutch fluid reservoir looked a bit dark. After closer inspection the fluid had started to go brown. If you recall earlier in the build, I'd used a spare piece of textile braided fuel hose for the reservoir hose (NBR). It hadn't occurred to me that the hose wasn't suitable for brake fluid! Turns out you need to use EPDM hose for brake fluid, so I ordered some Cohline 2337 EPDM hose rated for brake fluid and got that fitted. After reading about David's firestarter antics with his clutch reservoir hose I opted to wrap the hose with some fibreglass heat shielding I had purchased for the turbo coolant hose.
NBR rubber fuel hose (bottom) - BAD!
EPDM rubber brake hose (top) - GOOD!
Managed to get out again on Sunday for a drive, roads were still a bit damp when I eventually got going at around 10:30am.
Car felt a bit hesitant at some points (see below for the reason).
When I got home it was time to crack out the Gunsons Gas Tester and get around to adjusting the CO level on the AFM and setting the idle speed correctly on the throttle body.
It was then I realised I'd knocked one of the vacuum hoses loose when removing the spark plugs (at least I now know why there was some hesitation).
The Gunsons Gas Tester was pretty straight-forward to use, and I got it adjusted to the 2.00% it wanted in air. The engine was nice and warm, and I had some perfectly sized hose to connect the gas tester to the analysis port that Porsche kindly provided in the engine bay (you must test here if you have a catalytic convertor fitted). Don't forget to disconnect the lambda sensor if you have one.
Before I started the adjustments it was showing around 0.2% CO (a little bit lean). After a few attempts adjusting the AFM (1/2 turn at a time) I got it bang on the 0.6% required as per the workshop manual.
I then disabled the idle control valve using a paper clip to jumper the diagnosis plug as per the workshop manual. Immediately the revs climbed above 1000rpm, so it definitely needed adjusting. Got it down to the 840rpm required as per the workshop manual. With that done the lambda sensor was reconnected and the jumper removed from the diagnostic plug. The car idled much smoother!
Took it for another quick drive and all was good.
Car felt a bit hesitant at some points (see below for the reason).
When I got home it was time to crack out the Gunsons Gas Tester and get around to adjusting the CO level on the AFM and setting the idle speed correctly on the throttle body.
It was then I realised I'd knocked one of the vacuum hoses loose when removing the spark plugs
(at least I now know why there was some hesitation).The Gunsons Gas Tester was pretty straight-forward to use, and I got it adjusted to the 2.00% it wanted in air. The engine was nice and warm, and I had some perfectly sized hose to connect the gas tester to the analysis port that Porsche kindly provided in the engine bay (you must test here if you have a catalytic convertor fitted). Don't forget to disconnect the lambda sensor if you have one.
Before I started the adjustments it was showing around 0.2% CO (a little bit lean). After a few attempts adjusting the AFM (1/2 turn at a time) I got it bang on the 0.6% required as per the workshop manual.
I then disabled the idle control valve using a paper clip to jumper the diagnosis plug as per the workshop manual. Immediately the revs climbed above 1000rpm, so it definitely needed adjusting. Got it down to the 840rpm required as per the workshop manual. With that done the lambda sensor was reconnected and the jumper removed from the diagnostic plug. The car idled much smoother!
Took it for another quick drive and all was good.
I've been updating the other thread with general maintenance - https://www.porscheclubgb.com/forum/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-944-today.115540/page-279
I tidied up the front speaker enclosures whilst fitting a new to me used right-hand side door window, the old one was heavily scratched and this one from Rare Porsche Parts had barely a scratch on it (although it does have an annoying security code ground into one corner).
I'd fitted these Hertz Dieci component speakers back around 2007! but hadn't done as good a job as I am capable of today, so tidied the enclosure up by making a cover for the missing speaker and using it to mount the crossovers with some hot glue. I also made a detachable cable for the tweeter to make removal of the door card less of a faff.
Picked up some new wheel nuts for when I fit the replica Cup 2 wheels, probably going for some Yokohama V105S tyres on them (if I can still get any).
Whilst sorting out the speaker enclosures I noticed an issue with audio on the front left channel, suspecting this was the head unit, I removed it and started a repair. The most likely culprit was the integrated amplifier IC chip on the main board. After doing some research I discovered the original chip was no longer available but there were some dodgy chinesium replicas on eBay. Instead I looked at what was available from my preferred electronics component supplier - Digikey, and found some modern replacements from ST Microelectronics (yes a chinese company but with a reputation for producing good replicas of discontinued components).
I opted for their latest version of the Flexiwatt25 integrated amplifier (which is used in many head units from multiple manufacturers), the STPA008. A 4-channel amplifier with 4 x 50W @ 4 ohms, and included upgraded GSM noise immunity, compatible with start-stop technology (meaning it can run at low voltage 6v!) and Hi-Fi class distortion levels. https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/stpa008.pdf
I removed the old chip and fitted the new chip and also ending up purchasing some more workshop equipment (a desoldering iron - Duratool D00673, and a used DC bench power supply to power the head unit - Duratool D03234).
Got it all reassembled and working great on the bench.
Fitted it back into the car and noticed no audio still on front left channel! Bugger! Started looking at the wiring at the back of the head unit (which I should have done at the beginning!). Wiggled the ISO connector and audio started coming out of the front left channel, so I disconnected it and got some electrical contact cleaner and gave both sides of the connector a good clean which sorted it. All that effort dismantling the head unit when it was probably fine! Oh well you learn something every day!
I'd ordered some new headlight weather covers for use with the H4 LED bulbs from Porsche and got around to fitting them along with the Philips Ultinon 5100 LEDs. Not tried them at night but big difference looking at them in the garage! The Porsche instructions tell you to cable tie the original rubber boot to the headlight frame to keep it from getting caught in the mechanism. I supposed you could always cut it off, but I didn't want to wreck it in case I went back to the halogen bulbs.
Firstly you have to remove the mounting collar from the bulb and fit it to the headlight.
Then you fit the rubber boot of the headlight and mounting collar to seal the headlight from any water (the bulb has it's own o-ring to prevent water through the mounting collar).
Finally you cable tie the old rubber boot and connector on to the headlight frame and make sure it doesn't bind or touch anything when raising and lowering the lights.
Now to find some H3 LEDs that fit into the housings, Philips do some called Ultinon Access and Osram also do a pair that are expensive that may fit.
I tidied up the front speaker enclosures whilst fitting a new to me used right-hand side door window, the old one was heavily scratched and this one from Rare Porsche Parts had barely a scratch on it (although it does have an annoying security code ground into one corner).
I'd fitted these Hertz Dieci component speakers back around 2007! but hadn't done as good a job as I am capable of today, so tidied the enclosure up by making a cover for the missing speaker and using it to mount the crossovers with some hot glue. I also made a detachable cable for the tweeter to make removal of the door card less of a faff.
Picked up some new wheel nuts for when I fit the replica Cup 2 wheels, probably going for some Yokohama V105S tyres on them (if I can still get any).
Whilst sorting out the speaker enclosures I noticed an issue with audio on the front left channel, suspecting this was the head unit, I removed it and started a repair. The most likely culprit was the integrated amplifier IC chip on the main board. After doing some research I discovered the original chip was no longer available but there were some dodgy chinesium replicas on eBay. Instead I looked at what was available from my preferred electronics component supplier - Digikey, and found some modern replacements from ST Microelectronics (yes a chinese company but with a reputation for producing good replicas of discontinued components).
I opted for their latest version of the Flexiwatt25 integrated amplifier (which is used in many head units from multiple manufacturers), the STPA008. A 4-channel amplifier with 4 x 50W @ 4 ohms, and included upgraded GSM noise immunity, compatible with start-stop technology (meaning it can run at low voltage 6v!) and Hi-Fi class distortion levels. https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/stpa008.pdf
I removed the old chip and fitted the new chip and also ending up purchasing some more workshop equipment (a desoldering iron - Duratool D00673, and a used DC bench power supply to power the head unit - Duratool D03234).
Got it all reassembled and working great on the bench.
Fitted it back into the car and noticed no audio still on front left channel! Bugger! Started looking at the wiring at the back of the head unit (which I should have done at the beginning!). Wiggled the ISO connector and audio started coming out of the front left channel, so I disconnected it and got some electrical contact cleaner and gave both sides of the connector a good clean which sorted it. All that effort dismantling the head unit when it was probably fine! Oh well you learn something every day!
I'd ordered some new headlight weather covers for use with the H4 LED bulbs from Porsche and got around to fitting them along with the Philips Ultinon 5100 LEDs. Not tried them at night but big difference looking at them in the garage! The Porsche instructions tell you to cable tie the original rubber boot to the headlight frame to keep it from getting caught in the mechanism. I supposed you could always cut it off, but I didn't want to wreck it in case I went back to the halogen bulbs.
Firstly you have to remove the mounting collar from the bulb and fit it to the headlight.
Then you fit the rubber boot of the headlight and mounting collar to seal the headlight from any water (the bulb has it's own o-ring to prevent water through the mounting collar).
Finally you cable tie the old rubber boot and connector on to the headlight frame and make sure it doesn't bind or touch anything when raising and lowering the lights.
Now to find some H3 LEDs that fit into the housings, Philips do some called Ultinon Access and Osram also do a pair that are expensive that may fit.
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Managed to get a dog sitter yesterday (my mum) and took the 944 Turbo out to rack up some more miles on the rebuilt engine.
Now just over 400 miles after a trip around the Brecon Beacons.
Engine was smooth and perfect the whole trip, used no oil or coolant and no more funny smells.
The only issue was black leather in a black car on one of the hottest days of the year, and I've not filled up the A/C system yet! So that is definitely on the agenda to get sorted before I do anymore long journeys in the summer.
Fuel consumption was excellent as well if the gauge is to be believed, I had just over half a tank, filled up not far from home and it only dropped about a quarter for a 150ish mile drive.
Now just over 400 miles after a trip around the Brecon Beacons.
Engine was smooth and perfect the whole trip, used no oil or coolant and no more funny smells.
The only issue was black leather in a black car on one of the hottest days of the year, and I've not filled up the A/C system yet! So that is definitely on the agenda to get sorted before I do anymore long journeys in the summer.
Fuel consumption was excellent as well if the gauge is to be believed, I had just over half a tank, filled up not far from home and it only dropped about a quarter for a 150ish mile drive.
Having a nightmare with my recently acquired Turbo, which I purchased about a year ago.
It was in the Bodyshop getting painted and it emptied itself of coolant whilst sitting ticking over. The car had been off the road since circa 2017, and I stupidly didn’t get the mechanicals checked before going for paint.
Fast forward to a few weeks ago, had the engine stripped down and sent the head off to get checked. Was informed the gasket had failed so got the head skimmed. Made a huge error in not pressure testing the head at the same time.
I took the head back to the garage with various new parts, belts, tensioners, rollers, water pump, thermostat and full service kit etc. It was built back up again and unfortunately it’s still pressurising.
I’m hoping it’s simply a crack in the head, but the garage is going to run a few other tests just to rule out any other potential problems.
Any advice greatly received!
It was looking so good too.
It was in the Bodyshop getting painted and it emptied itself of coolant whilst sitting ticking over. The car had been off the road since circa 2017, and I stupidly didn’t get the mechanicals checked before going for paint.
Fast forward to a few weeks ago, had the engine stripped down and sent the head off to get checked. Was informed the gasket had failed so got the head skimmed. Made a huge error in not pressure testing the head at the same time.
I took the head back to the garage with various new parts, belts, tensioners, rollers, water pump, thermostat and full service kit etc. It was built back up again and unfortunately it’s still pressurising.
I’m hoping it’s simply a crack in the head, but the garage is going to run a few other tests just to rule out any other potential problems.
Any advice greatly received!
It was looking so good too.
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