Another 944 Turbo Engine Rebuild Thread

[dlknight]

Top mounts arrived after a short delay from D911, very pleased with them, they are quite thick and solid feeling. The bearing looks high quality and is held in by a snap-ring so can be replaced if required.





Gave the front struts a good clean with some Bilt Hamber Surfex HD and they came up looking very clean, I've got a new set of bump stops, socks , and spring hats / retainers for them as well.





Now just waiting on the H&R springs from CP4L (says they can take up to 28 days for delivery).

 

[scam75]

Top mounts look a nice piece of kit. Be interested in how they feel when bolted on.

 

[dlknight]

Now just waiting on the H&R springs from CP4L (says they can take up to 28 days for delivery).

Quick update on this, CP4L cancelled the order after I called them for an ETA, they said they can't get any.

I've ordered another pair from a german supplier on ebay, will see if they have them in stock.

 

[dlknight]

Awesome looks like imgur have blocked access to the UK for some reason...

 

[Eldavo]

I believe its a heavy handed approach to the new online safety laws in that they might be hosting a picture of a boob and don’t want to have to get everyone age verified

 

[dlknight]

I believe its a heavy handed approach to the new online safety laws in that they might be hosting a picture of a boob and don’t want to have to get everyone age verified

I saw that, gives me a job rehosting all the images now! No warning either just gone, managed to download them all with the same file names over a VPN.

Apparently ICO as still going to fine them even though they've blocked access for prior violations of the UK acts

 

[dlknight]

After waiting for ages for new lowering springs the H&R springs arrived from the German supplier in less than a week, and I also ordered a pair of Lesjofors springs from Autodoc which were listed as fitting the 944 Turbo (however it appears they were standard 944 springs for 2.5 NA cars, so returned for refund).

LESJOFORS






H&R




There was a slight issue with the new solid top mounts from D911, the supplied nut for securing the strut is not machined correctly so doesn't fully tighten down the strut assembly to secure the spring. After exploring a few ideas and asking for advice on rennlist I visited my friend Matt at MB Engineering and he converted the supplied nuts into spacer sleeves for me while I waited so I could use the original M14 nuts to secure the whole assembly together. I also treated myself to a brand new pair of spring cups from Porsche as the old ones were very rusty and crusty (don't ask how much, you will cry).



BEFORE


AFTER

 

[scam75]

Is your rear re-indexed to match the new springs? Or have you got eccentric adjustment available?

 

[dlknight]

Is your rear re-indexed to match the new springs? Or have you got eccentric adjustment available?

Yes - I roughly measured the ride-height (using the factory method) and the rear was approximately 30mm lower than the front (that is with the eccentrics both adjusted in the middle of their travel). So that is why I went for the H&R springs as they quote a 30mm drop.

You could see the difference as there was a much larger gap between the tyre and wing on the front, and the rear was more tucked.

Going to re-measure the ride-height and have a go at adjusting the camber and toe on the weekend with a string setup that I put together after watching a few videos. I've got a digital angle finder for adjusting the camber, will post the method and how I get on!

Ideally after taking all the before measurements, you can work out how many turns the track rod ends need based on the thread pitch, which will hopefully get it near spot on without having to raise and lower the car too many times. Will also make sure to roll the car back and forth plenty to settle the suspension.

 

[scam75]

Fun and games! Good luck. My car was down 60mm at the back, obviously re-indexed before I was the owner. The GAZ set-up let me match the front. It was too low. By pretty much maxing the GAZ front ride height got me 30mm back up, by a sheer stroke of luck when I put on the Spax rears with helper springs on it lifted the back 30mm! It feels much nicer with the springs and torsion bar working in tandem at the back, less crashy and more progressive, completely lucked out though!

 

[dlknight]

Front struts reinstalled and started to work on doing a DIY home alignment, starting off with the ride height. I was pretty happy as somehow, I reindexed my torsion bars without even knowing. Although I did try and get the exact same configuration as before I stripped them down, so possibly it was already lowered prior to the restoration.

Everything measured using the workshop manual guidance.



Bought a camber gauge measuring jig from ebay for £30 and picked up a used pretty accurate (to 0.1 degrees) digital angle finder.



Made a string alignment set after watching the video below by FCP Euro, it is amazing how accurate this is when you take the time to align the strings correctly to the wheel centres, for the front it shows the previous toe setting more or less from the last time I had it laser aligned. I haven't messed with the front toe, however the rear is another story as this was completely stripped and restored.

 

[scam75]

Great work as ever!

 

[dlknight]

Cutting it fine - been checking the weather forecast every few hours for a week, praying for dry and warm weather on the weekend. The forecast promised it would be relatively warm and dry. It didn't mention getting caught in a heavy rain shower in Wales (I should have known though with Wales reputation)

I planned a long drive to put some miles on the rebuilt engine, with a little trip into Wales and hopefully some interesting roads.

Stopped a couple of times to check levels and make sure everything was OK, I noticed that the coolant level when the engine was hot is quite high. I've bled the system several times and I'm 99% sure that there is no more air (I also have the steam vent mod). Engine temperature is perfect staying at the first white line of the quadrant when driving and only climbing when stationary in traffic (never above half-way). Oil pressure around 3 bar when idle and just under 5 bar when driving.

Engine sounds silky smooth and the lifters have been quiet since the first start-up after the rebuild.

166 miles down (plus perhaps 50 miles or so on MOT day), another 340 miles before the 2nd oil change @ 500 miles.

Oil on the dipstick looks very clean.

12 year old Continental Sport Contact tyres held up fine even in the down pour (will be sticking new tyres on my Cup 2 wheels in the spring).





Look how small it looks compared to some modern cars in Morrisons car park whilst getting lunch!









Coolant level when warm, wasn't overflowing and goes back down to half-way between min and max when cold (I think I need to take some out so it is at min when cold?).

 

[scam75]

Takes me back almost exactly 3 years that first 500 miles and any excuse to go out! Temp gauge same on my car. Never noticed my coolant do that, I have steam vent kit too. Then again, you can hardly see through my cloudy expansion tank. They do seem happy hovering about the min to half full mark. Any time I top it up, it makes makes its way back down to its happy level. Oil pressures seem similar to me but I only see 3 bar idle after very spirited driving, about 3.5 bar normal hot idle and touching 5 bar when moving. Sender could be slightly different, I did renew mine not long after my build. Also being in the frozen north may keep my oil a bit thicker!

I went 20/50 mineral oil for first 500 then changed to 10/50 fully synth, changed again @ 6,500 miles and again recently around 13,600 miles. Over 15,000 now and oil still very clean and wasn't bad after leaving it in for 7,000 odd miles before recent change.

Anyway. all sounds great, well done and enjoy, a fantastic endeavour by yourself.

 

[Eldavo]

I’m waiting for someone to try one of these:

Coolant Tank

 

[dlknight]

I’m waiting for someone to try one of these:

Coolant Tank

Interesting - I wonder how good they are, they have the reinforcements installed by the look of the photos for the hose connections. Could these be old ones that have been cleaned on an industrial scale, or have they somehow obtained the moulds from an original supplier.

 

[944Turbo]

I had H&R springs (from Techart finished in white) on my coupe back in about 2004 found them very well judged, but front dampers wore out pretty quickly with them - but I was doing at least 12k miles a year along with some trackdays. My coolant used to be happiest just above the minimum mark too - I think my coolant cap was weaker as it used to 'self adjust' to there!
Well done on getting it back up and running and looking great!

 

[scam75]

I’m waiting for someone to try one of these:

Coolant Tank

Very interesting, no way they are cleaned and re-sold. They all expand and eventually either burst or splinter at a hose inlet.

I'd definitely give one a go, if 3 of us are in, we get 5% off and the delivery becomes £6 each. Albeit 2 will need posted on but still a saving.

I spotted similar a couple of years back, for about £2.64 each if you bought 500! Weren't available individually back then.

Stuart

 

[sr.944man]

Very interesting, no way they are cleaned and re-sold. They all expand and eventually either burst or splinter at a hose inlet.

I'd definitely give one a go, if 3 of us are in, we get 5% off and the delivery becomes £6 each. Albeit 2 will need posted on but still a saving.

I spotted similar a couple of years back, for about £2.64 each if you bought 500! Weren't available individually back then.

Stuart

I'd be up to make a three....

 

[Eldavo]

Ironically I bought a new one from Porsche about 4-5 years ago and now that I run an oil-cooled only turbo I really need the regular tank!