Another 944 Turbo Engine Rebuild Thread
- Thread starter dlknight
- Start date
I can see them fine Thom.
Must be getting close to the nerve jangling first key turn?
You don't want to bothering with things like gearboxes and exhausts until you know it runs properly.
LOL - still at least 4 weeks I reckon, had to do some evening work to get to the point I'm at now.
Still some paint work to do on the rear valance and exhaust back box mount (basically redoing the poor work that the useless car restorer did).
I know what you mean but I'm going to wait until the gearbox and exhaust is fitted before firing the engine. I may turn it over on the starter though before then to build up some oil pressure.
Crikey - getting behind on my updates again!
Continuing the story from last time, I had to make a repair on the wiring loom, for the knock sensor wiring. Found some cheap VW / Audi electrical connectors with wires for splicing into an existing loom on eBay.
Made the repair and sleeved each individual cable and the main wire with some heat shrink.
I then continued assembling the engine ancillaries including the air conditioning pump, power steering pump, and intake manifold.
Next, I connected up the wiring loom and ECUs inside the car and reconnected my aftermarket boost gauge.
Refitted the turbo water pump with a new silicon hose and some heat proof sleeving.
Picked up the rear engine protection plate, which I'd been looking for some time, pretty good deal and in good condition (just needs some cleaning, possibly vapour blasting).
Ordered some bits from various places including Torques (on eBay) and the UK distributor for Cohline hoses (for the power steering hose - low pressure). Made up a new power steering reservoir to cooler hose using a brass 90-degree bend. Finished the cylinder head steam vent kit and spliced it into the radiator to coolant reservoir hose.
I then made up a fuel damper hose using braided rubber hose and the 16mm metric 90-degree fittings (this will possibly be up for sale soon as I'm making a braided PTFE one instead).
Continuing the story from last time, I had to make a repair on the wiring loom, for the knock sensor wiring. Found some cheap VW / Audi electrical connectors with wires for splicing into an existing loom on eBay.
Made the repair and sleeved each individual cable and the main wire with some heat shrink.
I then continued assembling the engine ancillaries including the air conditioning pump, power steering pump, and intake manifold.
Next, I connected up the wiring loom and ECUs inside the car and reconnected my aftermarket boost gauge.
Refitted the turbo water pump with a new silicon hose and some heat proof sleeving.
Picked up the rear engine protection plate, which I'd been looking for some time, pretty good deal and in good condition (just needs some cleaning, possibly vapour blasting).
Ordered some bits from various places including Torques (on eBay) and the UK distributor for Cohline hoses (for the power steering hose - low pressure). Made up a new power steering reservoir to cooler hose using a brass 90-degree bend. Finished the cylinder head steam vent kit and spliced it into the radiator to coolant reservoir hose.
I then made up a fuel damper hose using braided rubber hose and the 16mm metric 90-degree fittings (this will possibly be up for sale soon as I'm making a braided PTFE one instead).
Next up was to refit the air conditioning system with a new condensor and receiver / dryer (including new o-rings).
New battery ground cable from eBay 35mm2 (240 amp) and 300mm long for £7.49, and appears to be made with quality cable.
New front radiator duct installed.
Front bumper installed!!! - had to modify the slit for the towing eye mount to fit my new custom-made mount. The paint job I had done back in 2014/5 looks rubbish; I masked the cutting area with tape and carefully cut the slit wider with a Dremel. When pulling the tape off some of the paint came off with the tape! so the prep must have been rubbish. Might touch it up for now so it blends in at a distance.
Then the torque tube was installed into the clutch / flywheel, lots of wriggling around until I realised, I hadn't measured how far the end of the shaft sits from the rear bellhousing as per Porsche specification 49.5mm +- 0.5mm. Mounting bolts left loose as per Porsche manual until the transmission is installed.
I got a custom clutch hose made up by HEL, M12 x 1.00 90-degree one end and M12 1.00 straight on the other end, 100cm long. Fits great and allowed me to bleed the clutch slave cylinder whilst it rested on the top of the wheel arch!
New battery ground cable from eBay 35mm2 (240 amp) and 300mm long for £7.49, and appears to be made with quality cable.
New front radiator duct installed.
Front bumper installed!!! - had to modify the slit for the towing eye mount to fit my new custom-made mount. The paint job I had done back in 2014/5 looks rubbish; I masked the cutting area with tape and carefully cut the slit wider with a Dremel. When pulling the tape off some of the paint came off with the tape! so the prep must have been rubbish. Might touch it up for now so it blends in at a distance.
Then the torque tube was installed into the clutch / flywheel, lots of wriggling around until I realised, I hadn't measured how far the end of the shaft sits from the rear bellhousing as per Porsche specification 49.5mm +- 0.5mm. Mounting bolts left loose as per Porsche manual until the transmission is installed.
I got a custom clutch hose made up by HEL, M12 x 1.00 90-degree one end and M12 1.00 straight on the other end, 100cm long. Fits great and allowed me to bleed the clutch slave cylinder whilst it rested on the top of the wheel arch!
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I sanded down the batwing, painted it with some plastic primer, and then some black trim paint from Halfords. Came out pretty well and then installed.
New sticker from Classic Stickers in France for the coolant bleed instructions (sits on the intercooler feed pipe).
Picture of the old sticker for reference.
Sent my injectors off to Mr Injector UK for servicing, they did an amazing job and came back looking brand new. They would probably have been fine though as the pre-service testing showed they were in very good condition.
BEFORE
AFTER
Some recent pictures, intercooler piping and air filter snorkel is now installed (need to take another picture).
New sticker from Classic Stickers in France for the coolant bleed instructions (sits on the intercooler feed pipe).
Picture of the old sticker for reference.
Sent my injectors off to Mr Injector UK for servicing, they did an amazing job and came back looking brand new. They would probably have been fine though as the pre-service testing showed they were in very good condition.
BEFORE
AFTER
Some recent pictures, intercooler piping and air filter snorkel is now installed (need to take another picture).
Kongsodoken
Active member
Looks really good -excellent work
Thanks Folks, managed to turn the car around on my own over the weekend and get it back on the axle stands. Need to paint the rear exhaust hanger and valance. Then refit the fuel tank, transmission, exhaust, test fuel pressure, test cooling system for leaks, spin it over to build oil pressure etc (without fuel).
Still alive - barely!
Work has been mega busy and spending time with my elderly mother as well so trying to fit jobs in as and when I can.
Leading on from the last post, I made up some new engine bay fuel lines with braided PTFE hose and metric fittings from ATEC in Brackley.
I made the feed and return lines quite long so I could loop them around the back of the engine away from the exhaust manifolds.
I made a bit of a mistake when cutting the existing hard lines and cut the return line a little too low (so it wouldn't fit in the factory pipe clip).
I made two fuel damper lines, one from standard braided line and the other from PTFE, I've fitted the PTFE line which just about copes with the tight loop (but will keep an eye on it).
I then fitted the refurbished front brake calipers, first I installed them with the Goodridge braided lines I got, but I wasn't happy as they didn't have a rubber grommet to hold them to the front strut. I even order a couple of Goodridge hose grommets and they were slightly too large to fit into the strut holder. I made up my mind and fitted the factory lines I'd managed to get for a good price of eBay, and made some new short hard lines from the brake line I had left over from the rear end overhaul.
Goodridge lines in the photos above.
If anyone is interested in a pair of the front caliper hard lines I might be able to sort something out for forum members.
Work has been mega busy and spending time with my elderly mother as well so trying to fit jobs in as and when I can.
Leading on from the last post, I made up some new engine bay fuel lines with braided PTFE hose and metric fittings from ATEC in Brackley.
I made the feed and return lines quite long so I could loop them around the back of the engine away from the exhaust manifolds.
I made a bit of a mistake when cutting the existing hard lines and cut the return line a little too low (so it wouldn't fit in the factory pipe clip).
I made two fuel damper lines, one from standard braided line and the other from PTFE, I've fitted the PTFE line which just about copes with the tight loop (but will keep an eye on it).
I then fitted the refurbished front brake calipers, first I installed them with the Goodridge braided lines I got, but I wasn't happy as they didn't have a rubber grommet to hold them to the front strut. I even order a couple of Goodridge hose grommets and they were slightly too large to fit into the strut holder. I made up my mind and fitted the factory lines I'd managed to get for a good price of eBay, and made some new short hard lines from the brake line I had left over from the rear end overhaul.
Goodridge lines in the photos above.
If anyone is interested in a pair of the front caliper hard lines I might be able to sort something out for forum members.
With the front brakes back on it was time to turn the car around, all by myself I might add which was very hard sweaty work!
Finally with the car back in the garage I could start work on the rear valance and repairing the bodged work that the $%&£*$ did last year. The welding wasn't too bad but wasn't a professional job either. I got all the crappy paint off and found some rust which they hadn't removed, so removed as much of that as I could mechanically and then used some Bilt Hamber Deox-Gel to treat the rest. Then a couple of coats of Electrox zinc rich primer and finally a coat of 3M Schutz spray.
Finally with the car back in the garage I could start work on the rear valance and repairing the bodged work that the $%&£*$ did last year. The welding wasn't too bad but wasn't a professional job either. I got all the crappy paint off and found some rust which they hadn't removed, so removed as much of that as I could mechanically and then used some Bilt Hamber Deox-Gel to treat the rest. Then a couple of coats of Electrox zinc rich primer and finally a coat of 3M Schutz spray.
blade7
Well-known member
You could make the the fuel lines too, yours look better than the yank ones.Still alive - barely!
Work has been mega busy and spending time with my elderly mother as well so trying to fit jobs in as and when I can.
Leading on from the last post, I made up some new engine bay fuel lines with braided PTFE hose and metric fittings from ATEC in Brackley.
I made the feed and return lines quite long so I could loop them around the back of the engine away from the exhaust manifolds.
I made a bit of a mistake when cutting the existing hard lines and cut the return line a little too low (so it wouldn't fit in the factory pipe clip).
I made two fuel damper lines, one from standard braided line and the other from PTFE, I've fitted the PTFE line which just about copes with the tight loop (but will keep an eye on it).
I then fitted the refurbished front brake calipers, first I installed them with the Goodridge braided lines I got, but I wasn't happy as they didn't have a rubber grommet to hold them to the front strut. I even order a couple of Goodridge hose grommets and they were slightly too large to fit into the strut holder. I made up my mind and fitted the factory lines I'd managed to get for a good price of eBay, and made some new short hard lines from the brake line I had left over from the rear end overhaul.
Goodridge lines in the photos above.
If anyone is interested in a pair of the front caliper hard lines I might be able to sort something out for forum members.
More progress, I realised I forgot to add the photo of the car whilst I was turning it 360!
Original Sender
Replacement Sender
I had some fun with the fuel tank, replaced all the breather hoses on top with a combination of Cohline 2192 (9.5mm ID) and 2240 (15mm ID), and decided to replace the fuel sender seal. Bad idea, it wouldn't lift more than about 1/2" and appeared to be stuck on something. I did some research on the web and couldn't find anything so gave it a good few tugs. When it came out the aluminium tube was bent (although I think it was already like this before I attempted to remove it). Otherwise the sender was in amazing condition, no corrosion or furry fuel deposits. But with the bent aluminum tube it was useless, I managed to get a good replacement (after receiving a completely furred up one sold as good).
I also replaced the return hose with a genuine Porsche hose (made in china believe it or not).
Next problem was the swirl pot type thing inside the tank, this was what had hooked up to the fuel sender and stopped it sliding out. The lid had pulled clean off and my hands are way to large to fit inside the hole in the tank. I ended up using a bent piece of brake line and a breaker bar to lift it into place and press it down on the clips. This took a few hours and several pints of sweat and dexterity.
Original Sender
Replacement Sender
I had some fun with the fuel tank, replaced all the breather hoses on top with a combination of Cohline 2192 (9.5mm ID) and 2240 (15mm ID), and decided to replace the fuel sender seal. Bad idea, it wouldn't lift more than about 1/2" and appeared to be stuck on something. I did some research on the web and couldn't find anything so gave it a good few tugs. When it came out the aluminium tube was bent (although I think it was already like this before I attempted to remove it). Otherwise the sender was in amazing condition, no corrosion or furry fuel deposits. But with the bent aluminum tube it was useless, I managed to get a good replacement (after receiving a completely furred up one sold as good).
I also replaced the return hose with a genuine Porsche hose (made in china believe it or not).
Next problem was the swirl pot type thing inside the tank, this was what had hooked up to the fuel sender and stopped it sliding out. The lid had pulled clean off and my hands are way to large to fit inside the hole in the tank. I ended up using a bent piece of brake line and a breaker bar to lift it into place and press it down on the clips. This took a few hours and several pints of sweat and dexterity.
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