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Another 944 Turbo Engine Rebuild Thread

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I then turned my attention to the cooling system and another bit of surface rust on the rear valance. Started with mechanical rust removal using my Black and Decker sanding file and a drill with wire brush attachments. Then cleaned it up and used the Bilt Hamber Deox Gel to remove any remaining rust chemically.

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I filled the block up with coolant by sticking a hose into the outlet and filling till it reached the top, the refitted the hoses and filled the coolant reservoir until it came out of the bleed screw, managed to get 8 litres in this way, so hopefully only half a litre or so will be needed to top it up.

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I pressure tested the system before I filled with coolant and managed to find a few leaks, one of them necessitated a new hose from Porsche (odd shape and tapered - £30). I did this again once the system was full of coolant and found more leaks which were fixed by tightening hose clamps. Eventually I got it to hold 15 PSI over a couple of hours which was good enough for me.
 
I had to replace that hose too after my rebuild. I ended up ordering a silicon hose with the right size ends and cutting it to suit.
 
I had to replace that hose too after my rebuild. I ended up ordering a silicon hose with the right size ends and cutting it to suit.

I actually did that, but I wasn't happy that the silicone hose was as secure as the rubber one.

Another update from me! almost there, I think I should be at least turning the engine over on the starter to build up oil pressure in the next week or so!

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So next steps from the last update was to get the fuel tank fitted and plumbed in. I used some butyl tape I had purchased a while ago to reseal the taillights, (another job for the list that I haven't got around to yet). Then refitted the carpet and seat belt, I thought the seat belt was broken but after doing some detective work, didn't realise it had a tilt mechanism inside it. Once it was properly installed the seat belt started working again, saving me the £100 or so for a new one from Porsche (which I thought was quite reasonable, considering the prices of some of the aftermarket belts from rennline etc.).

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I painted the DIY fuel tank strap I made from aluminium strip (unfortunately I had to modify this again later as I'd made it slightly too long and therefore it was a bit slack). The transmission oil cooler also got a lick of new paint.

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Meanwhile the heat shields and exhaust had been with Matt at MB Engineering. I had the shields vapour blasted, and the exhaust tailpipe needed welding as it had split from the silencer. Got a bung welded into the exhaust downpipe as well for my wideband sensor.

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Started looking in my parts boxes for the exhaust fittings and noticed that the silencer hangers were not in the greatest of condition (even though I'd had them powder coated, I think that was all that was holding them together). After seeing how much Porsche wanted for them, around £30 per hanger (4 of them), I searched the web and found that 944online had new ones for a fraction of the Porsche tax and came with new rubber blocks (my original ones though are still good) for $91 including delivery to the UK (£67 after exchange rate).
 
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Something that had been bugging me for a while was that some of the interior had overspray from when I had the car resprayed. So I got some white spirit (which didn't work) and then tried some xylene thinners I had for my epoxy paint. This worked great and removed the overspray making the trim look like new. I then immediately washed the trim and treated it to some Autoglym Vinyl and Rubber Care. The other trim pieces that had overspray were the left side door panel and the centre arm rest. I think the bodyshop must have left the trim pieces somewhere where they got sprayed by accident...

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I then began gathering the parts for the next job, fitting the transmission!! Trying not to injure myself whilst moving the transmission from the utility room to the garage was interesting, I split it into a two-day activity, moving it to the front hall and then moving to the garage the next day.

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Installation was fairly easy; the plastic selector protection tube wasn't too difficult to install. The main issue was trying to fit the transmission between the bell housing and the spare wheel well.

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I then completed the Buchanon Automotive gear shifter mod (see the 944 FAQs - https://www.porscheclubgb.com/forum/threads/the-ba-gear-stick-upgrade.104615/). The shift feel is amazing like a bolt action rifle, can't wait to try it out on the road.

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When attaching the shifter rod to the transmission I found a weird modification that must have happened at some point (but not by my hands). Someone had drilled a hole straight through the shifter rod and secured it using an M8 bolt and nut, instead of just the M8 pointy shaped bolt. I also found the hole had an M10 thread, so found an M10 bolt, cut it to size and ground the end into a point to fit in the divot on the shift bar. Drilled the bolt for safety wire and secured it with Loctite.

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I took the vapour blasted heat shields to the electroplater and got some yellow zinc plated and then refitted them, looking good!

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A little evening job was to make up some new PTFE fuel hoses for the fuel pump and fuel filter.

And finally last job was fitting the wastegate.

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Next job will probably be the starter motor, then we can try connecting some power!!!
 
I'd have chopped out that tatty old catalytic convertor, it's probably rotten inside.

It is only temporary, until I can afford a full system (probably off the chap who made David's). I had a good look inside with a torch and have shaken it several times to get any loose bits out. I'm happy that it isn't blocked so should be fine for now, some bits have broken off and come out when I was shaking it.
 
Great work, that all looks fab. Pleased to say I can see the pictures now for whatever reason.
There is a very simple way to bleed the coolant circuit with no tool and that is to fill up the tank and blow air with the mouth at the opening, which will force the liquid to go everywhere it should be, until seeing coolant come out at the bleed screw.
 
Back once again!

Next up the messy job of rebuilding the rear axles and CV joints, grease everywhere!

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After looking everywhere for a bellville spring washer for the inside side of the CV joint, it turns out that the late turbo / S2 axles don't have one. The CV joint butts right up to the lip on the inside of the axle and is held in place with the circlip on the outside which is a very tight fit.

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I continued on with the jobs, next was to fix the broken stud on the rear lower splitter. I tried to drill out the remains of the old stud which didn't work out very well but got rid of most of it, I was then able to use a dremel cutting disc to remove the rest of it. Looks like the stud is welded to a metal brace that is embedded in the fibreglass. I chose to repair the splitter by using a bolt of suitable size and then epoxy it into place with some JB Weld. This worked out quite well and seemed solid enough when mounting the splitter to the car!

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Made up some custom PTFE fuel lines for the rear.

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Finished fitting the wastegate, and started fitting the exhaust, it was then I realised that the downpipe would not fit with the clutch guard plate in place. I'd hazard a guess that the guard plate wasn't fitted to turbo cars for this very reason! Oh well it was only about £20. Note the new wideband sensor installed, perfect placement by my mate Matt at MB Engineering.

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Cleaned the exhaust back box, used a clay bar and some methylated spirits to remove the contaminants from the surface and then polished it with some Autosol metal polish, shiny!

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Filled up the gearbox with Mobil's finest...

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Then it was a very long couple of weeks, I managed to crank the engine over and build up good oil pressure! A mission to Tesco then to get some Momentum 99 and then I found a small fuel leak at the fuel rail damper line connection. Looks like the zinc plating treatment damaged the surface of the connection. Luckily, I had a few spare fuel rails so took one to MB Engineering to get it cleaned up less aggressively.

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My daily drive BMW X3 decided to throw a spanner or two into the mix, 2 year old Lemforder control arm ball joints failed. Not happy, so ordered a couple of replacements and decided to fit the new shocks and springs I'd had on the shelf for a couple of months. Then whilst doing the job found that the front discs and pads also needed replacing!!!

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Replacement fuel rail installed, last weekend, then I couldn't get a spark. Scratched my head for a little while and read through the Clark's Garage no-start troubleshooting guide. Printed it off and got my multi-meter and ventured into the garage. Then noticed the speed sensor plug was loose, clipped it back together and, well you can see for yourself below!


Note that the lifters were noisy at the beginning but soon settled down as the engine warmed up. The balance belt was slightly too tight as well, so I've loosened it a little and re-adjusted the balance belt idler roller so it is barely touching the belt as per the workshop manual (0-1mm deflection). Sounded much better, will record another video after I've completed the initial drive and run-in, scheduled for Monday on the way to the MOT station...
 
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Picking up from where we left off on the last cliffhanger :D

First trip out of the garage under her own power (thankfully I didn't have to push it again) to tighten the front ARB bushes and the rear trailing arm to torsion tube bushes (for some reason I think I forgot something, more on that later).

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Then on Monday a trip to the MOT test centre and a pass with one advisory for play in the offside front wheel bearing (more on that later). Emissions look fantastic compared to the last one before the rebuild (possibly an error by the operator last time though, see emissions history from previous MOTs below.

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I chose the wrong time to go for an MOT and whilst waiting for them to finish an almighty thunderstorm erupted, meaning the drive home got her a little dirty. I did the right thing and gave her a thorough wash before getting tucked back up in the garage (after drying it off first).

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Porsche Parking Only!

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Only one leak, more of a weep as there was only a smear on the undertray. I can't be sure where it is coming from, first I thought it was the sump gasket, but I could just see a little wetness on the bottom of the belt cover. From what I can see of the crank when looking up from underneath it looks dry. I will take the belt cover off when I have a few moments and see if I can spot the source. It hasn't left a mark on the floor whilst I've run it in the garage.

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I'm also getting water droplets that appear to be coming from the exhaust downpipe and centre join. Definitely just plain water (passed the taste test) so assuming it is just condensation from the exhaust system.

On the drive to the MOT station, I noticed a couple of issues, when driving at slow speed and making tight turns I was getting a clunk from the front suspension, also there was a bit of "binding" / "chatter" from the rear end which felt like the transmission. Just to be clear the gear change was fantastic and the best it has ever been in this car. So smooth and no problem with any gear even when it was cold. I've hopefully fixed the second issue as I checked the fluid level in the transmission which was a bit low so managed to add another 200ml or so to get it just under the fill plug. Checked the level with a 90-degree pick as a makeshift oil dipstick (factory workshop manual states approximately 5mm below fill plug). Will come back to the first issue in a little while.

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Yes, it was tricky to get that photo, mainly because the phone wouldn't focus on the fluid! :D

Next up, I couldn't see my gauge screens due to the sunlight, so got the hoods installed, hopefully that will help a bit. Readings were spot on, around 14.7 on the wideband at idle dropping to 11s on full throttle.

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I prefer the red colour at night, but white will be easier to read in the daytime (they do have switchable modes for day and night, but it only changes the brightness and not the colour unfortunately).

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Then onto the first engine oil change, the oil drain plug was pretty clean with minimal deposits on it which looked no different to when changing the oil previously. Just a very fine soft emulsion, presumably the additives from the assembly lube.

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The engine oil definitely had lots of sparkles but only very very fine ones, reminiscent of very fine sand. I'm assuming this is the additives again mainly from the assembly lube (Liqui Moly LM 48 Installation Paste), which contains a large amount of MoS2. I'm not panicking yet, will see what it looks like after the next change at 500 miles. The photos have lots of reflections and don't show how clean it looked apart from the previously mentioned sparkles. There was nothing bigger than those very fine particles, I've still got the oil filter to inspect, need to pick up a large set of tin snips to cut it open.

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So back to the first drive and the clunking from the front end :eek: after checking all the fasteners it looks like I forgot to tighten the nuts on the back of the castor eccentrics (the one that holds it to the rear bush), they weren't completely loose but enough to knock against the bush. Hoping that was all it was. I've since stripped down the front suspension and so far, I've checked the front wheel bearings (the adjustment was fine, I think the MOT tester didn't understand that the type of bearings on the 944 have a tiny bit of play when properly adjusted), and the control arm ball joints are nice and tight, rotated them by hand and they were not loose or grindy or notchy, very smooth but firm.

Next up I'm removing the struts to check the top mounts and hopefully install a set of H&R lowering springs I've ordered from CP4L, the rear is already low but will adjust it to be the same.

My odometer was also not working on the first drive, and I dismantled it this evening to find out if it was the infamous odometer gear.

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Yes, it was the infamous odometer gear, I barely looked at it nor even touched it and it disintegrated into a million pieces.

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New one ordered, mine was 20 x 22.

Was hoping to drive the car to Porsche at Prescott next weekend but don't have an alignment booked in till mid-October. Might try and do a string alignment if I have time.
 
Back again :)

Had to wait for some parts I ordered, new odometer gear from Partworks.de and some new hardware to reattach the front control arm ball joints to the steering knuckle.

Started by fixing the odometer so I could get the instrument cluster reinstalled into the car. Partworks give you a nice PDF with a set of instructions to replace the gear, the worst bit is pulling the needle off the speedometer. It was on VERY tight and felt like it was going to break when pulling it and twisting it (as recommended in the instructions), and then suddenly it popped off.

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All back together and I even added the mileage to / from the MOT station from last week!

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I still have a slight oil leak which I now think is coming from the sump gasket, the curved section underneath the oil pump. I'm going to see if it clears up over the next 500 miles and will think about sealing it when I do the next oil change.

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Cut up the old oil filter and inspected it, there was some small glittery pieces of magnetic metal, but not a huge amount. Some strange black bits as well which I think might be old oil flushed out of the lifters.

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Couldn't resist a cheeky offer on a single Bilstein B6 front shock absorber on the bay, which was accepted. Will keep it on the side for the moment and see if I can make a pair with another cheap purchase later on.

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Today I removed the front struts and tested them and the strut top mounts. To test the top mounts, I spun them around and found that they sounded dry but not completely shot. I then grasped the top of the mount whilst still attached to the strut and rocked them side to side and noticed both had some play in the bearing. They are also very rusty and don't look great, so I've ordered a pair of spherical bearing mounts from D911 (it appears these are made by 9products in Finland). The shock absorbers needed several fully compressions and then felt fine, smooth throughout the entire stroke and returned to their original height smoothly.

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Next update will be when I receive my new top mounts from D911 and the H&R springs from CP4L / ECP.
 
Good job with the speedo needle, I don't know what they are made of but it ain't far off cardboard and they bend very easily out of shape. I have a very slight kink on my fuel gauge needle from changing gauges and it is rather annoying! I do have a spare gauge but the temp side doesn't work. I haven't been brave enough to try and swap the needles though!
 

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