scam75
Well-known member
A two would be fine, still get the 5% off and halves the delivery. You still got an S2? Does the S2 have 2 outlets? Suppose you could blank one off if not.
Another 944 Turbo Engine Rebuild Thread
- Thread starter dlknight
- Start date
A two would be fine, still get the 5% off and halves the delivery. You still got an S2? Does the S2 have 2 outlets? Suppose you could blank one off if not.
Yes, still the S2 - I'll check today and get back to you...
Ah, OK, I hadn't realised there was a difference. Mine has just one outlet. I could block it, but I'm a bit of an originality stickler I'm afraid, and it would be very visible - so rule me out on this one. Sorry!
Don't let it happen again, or I will send my stealthy assassin around to sort you guys out
After the big drive I decided to check the spark plugs and have a look under the belt covers to make sure everything was OK.
Plugs all looked good, the same, with no obvious differences.
Checked under the belt covers and all was good, nice and dry and no damage on the belts.
Whilst I was nosing around the engine bay and checking fluids, I noticed the clutch fluid reservoir looked a bit dark. After closer inspection the fluid had started to go brown. If you recall earlier in the build, I'd used a spare piece of textile braided fuel hose for the reservoir hose (NBR). It hadn't occurred to me that the hose wasn't suitable for brake fluid! Turns out you need to use EPDM hose for brake fluid, so I ordered some Cohline 2337 EPDM hose rated for brake fluid and got that fitted. After reading about David's firestarter antics with his clutch reservoir hose I opted to wrap the hose with some fibreglass heat shielding I had purchased for the turbo coolant hose.
NBR rubber fuel hose (bottom) - BAD!
EPDM rubber brake hose (top) - GOOD!
Managed to get out again on Sunday for a drive, roads were still a bit damp when I eventually got going at around 10:30am.
Car felt a bit hesitant at some points (see below for the reason).
When I got home it was time to crack out the Gunsons Gas Tester and get around to adjusting the CO level on the AFM and setting the idle speed correctly on the throttle body.
It was then I realised I'd knocked one of the vacuum hoses loose when removing the spark plugs (at least I now know why there was some hesitation).
The Gunsons Gas Tester was pretty straight-forward to use, and I got it adjusted to the 2.00% it wanted in air. The engine was nice and warm, and I had some perfectly sized hose to connect the gas tester to the analysis port that Porsche kindly provided in the engine bay (you must test here if you have a catalytic convertor fitted). Don't forget to disconnect the lambda sensor if you have one.
Before I started the adjustments it was showing around 0.2% CO (a little bit lean). After a few attempts adjusting the AFM (1/2 turn at a time) I got it bang on the 0.6% required as per the workshop manual.
I then disabled the idle control valve using a paper clip to jumper the diagnosis plug as per the workshop manual. Immediately the revs climbed above 1000rpm, so it definitely needed adjusting. Got it down to the 840rpm required as per the workshop manual. With that done the lambda sensor was reconnected and the jumper removed from the diagnostic plug. The car idled much smoother!
Took it for another quick drive and all was good.
Car felt a bit hesitant at some points (see below for the reason).
When I got home it was time to crack out the Gunsons Gas Tester and get around to adjusting the CO level on the AFM and setting the idle speed correctly on the throttle body.
It was then I realised I'd knocked one of the vacuum hoses loose when removing the spark plugs
(at least I now know why there was some hesitation).The Gunsons Gas Tester was pretty straight-forward to use, and I got it adjusted to the 2.00% it wanted in air. The engine was nice and warm, and I had some perfectly sized hose to connect the gas tester to the analysis port that Porsche kindly provided in the engine bay (you must test here if you have a catalytic convertor fitted). Don't forget to disconnect the lambda sensor if you have one.
Before I started the adjustments it was showing around 0.2% CO (a little bit lean). After a few attempts adjusting the AFM (1/2 turn at a time) I got it bang on the 0.6% required as per the workshop manual.
I then disabled the idle control valve using a paper clip to jumper the diagnosis plug as per the workshop manual. Immediately the revs climbed above 1000rpm, so it definitely needed adjusting. Got it down to the 840rpm required as per the workshop manual. With that done the lambda sensor was reconnected and the jumper removed from the diagnostic plug. The car idled much smoother!
Took it for another quick drive and all was good.
I've been updating the other thread with general maintenance - https://www.porscheclubgb.com/forum/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-944-today.115540/page-279
I tidied up the front speaker enclosures whilst fitting a new to me used right-hand side door window, the old one was heavily scratched and this one from Rare Porsche Parts had barely a scratch on it (although it does have an annoying security code ground into one corner).
I'd fitted these Hertz Dieci component speakers back around 2007! but hadn't done as good a job as I am capable of today, so tidied the enclosure up by making a cover for the missing speaker and using it to mount the crossovers with some hot glue. I also made a detachable cable for the tweeter to make removal of the door card less of a faff.
Picked up some new wheel nuts for when I fit the replica Cup 2 wheels, probably going for some Yokohama V105S tyres on them (if I can still get any).
Whilst sorting out the speaker enclosures I noticed an issue with audio on the front left channel, suspecting this was the head unit, I removed it and started a repair. The most likely culprit was the integrated amplifier IC chip on the main board. After doing some research I discovered the original chip was no longer available but there were some dodgy chinesium replicas on eBay. Instead I looked at what was available from my preferred electronics component supplier - Digikey, and found some modern replacements from ST Microelectronics (yes a chinese company but with a reputation for producing good replicas of discontinued components).
I opted for their latest version of the Flexiwatt25 integrated amplifier (which is used in many head units from multiple manufacturers), the STPA008. A 4-channel amplifier with 4 x 50W @ 4 ohms, and included upgraded GSM noise immunity, compatible with start-stop technology (meaning it can run at low voltage 6v!) and Hi-Fi class distortion levels. https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/stpa008.pdf
I removed the old chip and fitted the new chip and also ending up purchasing some more workshop equipment (a desoldering iron - Duratool D00673, and a used DC bench power supply to power the head unit - Duratool D03234).
Got it all reassembled and working great on the bench.
Fitted it back into the car and noticed no audio still on front left channel! Bugger! Started looking at the wiring at the back of the head unit (which I should have done at the beginning!). Wiggled the ISO connector and audio started coming out of the front left channel, so I disconnected it and got some electrical contact cleaner and gave both sides of the connector a good clean which sorted it. All that effort dismantling the head unit when it was probably fine! Oh well you learn something every day!
I'd ordered some new headlight weather covers for use with the H4 LED bulbs from Porsche and got around to fitting them along with the Philips Ultinon 5100 LEDs. Not tried them at night but big difference looking at them in the garage! The Porsche instructions tell you to cable tie the original rubber boot to the headlight frame to keep it from getting caught in the mechanism. I supposed you could always cut it off, but I didn't want to wreck it in case I went back to the halogen bulbs.
Firstly you have to remove the mounting collar from the bulb and fit it to the headlight.
Then you fit the rubber boot of the headlight and mounting collar to seal the headlight from any water (the bulb has it's own o-ring to prevent water through the mounting collar).
Finally you cable tie the old rubber boot and connector on to the headlight frame and make sure it doesn't bind or touch anything when raising and lowering the lights.
Now to find some H3 LEDs that fit into the housings, Philips do some called Ultinon Access and Osram also do a pair that are expensive that may fit.
I tidied up the front speaker enclosures whilst fitting a new to me used right-hand side door window, the old one was heavily scratched and this one from Rare Porsche Parts had barely a scratch on it (although it does have an annoying security code ground into one corner).
I'd fitted these Hertz Dieci component speakers back around 2007! but hadn't done as good a job as I am capable of today, so tidied the enclosure up by making a cover for the missing speaker and using it to mount the crossovers with some hot glue. I also made a detachable cable for the tweeter to make removal of the door card less of a faff.
Picked up some new wheel nuts for when I fit the replica Cup 2 wheels, probably going for some Yokohama V105S tyres on them (if I can still get any).
Whilst sorting out the speaker enclosures I noticed an issue with audio on the front left channel, suspecting this was the head unit, I removed it and started a repair. The most likely culprit was the integrated amplifier IC chip on the main board. After doing some research I discovered the original chip was no longer available but there were some dodgy chinesium replicas on eBay. Instead I looked at what was available from my preferred electronics component supplier - Digikey, and found some modern replacements from ST Microelectronics (yes a chinese company but with a reputation for producing good replicas of discontinued components).
I opted for their latest version of the Flexiwatt25 integrated amplifier (which is used in many head units from multiple manufacturers), the STPA008. A 4-channel amplifier with 4 x 50W @ 4 ohms, and included upgraded GSM noise immunity, compatible with start-stop technology (meaning it can run at low voltage 6v!) and Hi-Fi class distortion levels. https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/stpa008.pdf
I removed the old chip and fitted the new chip and also ending up purchasing some more workshop equipment (a desoldering iron - Duratool D00673, and a used DC bench power supply to power the head unit - Duratool D03234).
Got it all reassembled and working great on the bench.
Fitted it back into the car and noticed no audio still on front left channel! Bugger! Started looking at the wiring at the back of the head unit (which I should have done at the beginning!). Wiggled the ISO connector and audio started coming out of the front left channel, so I disconnected it and got some electrical contact cleaner and gave both sides of the connector a good clean which sorted it. All that effort dismantling the head unit when it was probably fine! Oh well you learn something every day!
I'd ordered some new headlight weather covers for use with the H4 LED bulbs from Porsche and got around to fitting them along with the Philips Ultinon 5100 LEDs. Not tried them at night but big difference looking at them in the garage! The Porsche instructions tell you to cable tie the original rubber boot to the headlight frame to keep it from getting caught in the mechanism. I supposed you could always cut it off, but I didn't want to wreck it in case I went back to the halogen bulbs.
Firstly you have to remove the mounting collar from the bulb and fit it to the headlight.
Then you fit the rubber boot of the headlight and mounting collar to seal the headlight from any water (the bulb has it's own o-ring to prevent water through the mounting collar).
Finally you cable tie the old rubber boot and connector on to the headlight frame and make sure it doesn't bind or touch anything when raising and lowering the lights.
Now to find some H3 LEDs that fit into the housings, Philips do some called Ultinon Access and Osram also do a pair that are expensive that may fit.
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Managed to get a dog sitter yesterday (my mum) and took the 944 Turbo out to rack up some more miles on the rebuilt engine.
Now just over 400 miles after a trip around the Brecon Beacons.
Engine was smooth and perfect the whole trip, used no oil or coolant and no more funny smells.
The only issue was black leather in a black car on one of the hottest days of the year, and I've not filled up the A/C system yet! So that is definitely on the agenda to get sorted before I do anymore long journeys in the summer.
Fuel consumption was excellent as well if the gauge is to be believed, I had just over half a tank, filled up not far from home and it only dropped about a quarter for a 150ish mile drive.
Now just over 400 miles after a trip around the Brecon Beacons.
Engine was smooth and perfect the whole trip, used no oil or coolant and no more funny smells.
The only issue was black leather in a black car on one of the hottest days of the year, and I've not filled up the A/C system yet! So that is definitely on the agenda to get sorted before I do anymore long journeys in the summer.
Fuel consumption was excellent as well if the gauge is to be believed, I had just over half a tank, filled up not far from home and it only dropped about a quarter for a 150ish mile drive.
Having a nightmare with my recently acquired Turbo, which I purchased about a year ago.
It was in the Bodyshop getting painted and it emptied itself of coolant whilst sitting ticking over. The car had been off the road since circa 2017, and I stupidly didn’t get the mechanicals checked before going for paint.
Fast forward to a few weeks ago, had the engine stripped down and sent the head off to get checked. Was informed the gasket had failed so got the head skimmed. Made a huge error in not pressure testing the head at the same time.
I took the head back to the garage with various new parts, belts, tensioners, rollers, water pump, thermostat and full service kit etc. It was built back up again and unfortunately it’s still pressurising.
I’m hoping it’s simply a crack in the head, but the garage is going to run a few other tests just to rule out any other potential problems.
Any advice greatly received!
It was looking so good too.
It was in the Bodyshop getting painted and it emptied itself of coolant whilst sitting ticking over. The car had been off the road since circa 2017, and I stupidly didn’t get the mechanicals checked before going for paint.
Fast forward to a few weeks ago, had the engine stripped down and sent the head off to get checked. Was informed the gasket had failed so got the head skimmed. Made a huge error in not pressure testing the head at the same time.
I took the head back to the garage with various new parts, belts, tensioners, rollers, water pump, thermostat and full service kit etc. It was built back up again and unfortunately it’s still pressurising.
I’m hoping it’s simply a crack in the head, but the garage is going to run a few other tests just to rule out any other potential problems.
Any advice greatly received!
It was looking so good too.
Time for an update, coincidentally mine has recently been experiencing issues similar to the above.
Let's start chronologically, after my last outing the car has been sat in the garage. There were some light scratches and marks on the paint from all the work that has been going on over the last couple of years, so I broke out the electric polisher and my Koch Chemie polishes. I was very happy with the results, completely removing the scratches that the local "classic car restorer" made but didn't tell me about (think they got chassis paint overspray over the rear wing and wiped it off with a rag).
Then I booked a day off work as I needed to get the 996 MOT'd, and the A/C recharged (had a leak in the underbody A/C lines that I repaired with a splice kit). I was also hoping to get the 944 Turbo in afterwards to have the A/C system pressure tested and filled. After standing around for about 30 minutes waiting for the droid to do its thing, it reported success! I was duly requested to test the A/C and lo and behold cold air!
Next job was to investigate the crazy coolant gauge behaviour, so I started at the sensor. It checked out fine with the multimeter and so I also tested the gauge by placing a resistor in-line with the wiring harness to mimc the sensor output. The gauge appeared to be working fine, more on that later.
The sensor harness wiring had seen better days, and the sheathing was cracked in places exposing the copper wire, so I cut it back slightly and crimped new connectors on.
Let's start chronologically, after my last outing the car has been sat in the garage. There were some light scratches and marks on the paint from all the work that has been going on over the last couple of years, so I broke out the electric polisher and my Koch Chemie polishes. I was very happy with the results, completely removing the scratches that the local "classic car restorer" made but didn't tell me about (think they got chassis paint overspray over the rear wing and wiped it off with a rag).
Then I booked a day off work as I needed to get the 996 MOT'd, and the A/C recharged (had a leak in the underbody A/C lines that I repaired with a splice kit). I was also hoping to get the 944 Turbo in afterwards to have the A/C system pressure tested and filled. After standing around for about 30 minutes waiting for the droid to do its thing, it reported success! I was duly requested to test the A/C and lo and behold cold air!
Next job was to investigate the crazy coolant gauge behaviour, so I started at the sensor. It checked out fine with the multimeter and so I also tested the gauge by placing a resistor in-line with the wiring harness to mimc the sensor output. The gauge appeared to be working fine, more on that later.
The sensor harness wiring had seen better days, and the sheathing was cracked in places exposing the copper wire, so I cut it back slightly and crimped new connectors on.
I spent some time under the engine looking for leaks.
There was a little bit of weeping on the front and rear (possibly either the sump gasket or the front and rear main seals), but nothing major. I tightened most of the hose clamps for the coolant system after pressure testing it again to 15 PSI. The A/C compressor appears to be weeping oil from the seal between the two body halves, I think others have had this issue and still had working A/C, will keep an eye on it for now.
I did this.
A few weeks ago I took the car to a car meet on a pretty hot day and I got stuck in traffic at a busy junction, the car got pretty hot and lost some coolant, but appeared to be fine after I topped it up and I drove home without incident and temps / oil pressure all good.
I've fitted a new coolant reservoir cap in case that had failed.
So yesterday I decided to make sure I'd bled the cooling system properly and run the car up to temp at home, the engine temperature appeared to be fine but it burped coolant everywhere. On investigation I noticed a problem with the fans, where only the left side fan was engaging, so I tested the fans using the Clarks Garage procedure and after un-plugging and plugging the fan power connectors, it all appears to be working correctly, with both fans running when jumpered or the A/C is switched on. I'm going to test it again to check in case it is the fan thermoswitch that is the problem.
The radiator was very hot so don't think I have a problem with water circulation.
I've also had another look at the coolant gauge as my earlier work did not resolve the issue, it was still pegging at maximum randomly.
I took it out of the cluster and connected it to my bench DC power supply, I wired a 47R ohm resistor in-line with the sensor input and noticed that if I tipped the gauge then it would peg at max. When I moved the gauge around it would either peg at maximum or return to the correct reading. I tried cleaning up an exposed wires and contacts with alcohol and used compressed air to blow out any dirt or dust from within the gauge windings. Although it behaved slightly better it was still pegging at maximum when moving the gauge around and rotating it.
It leads me to believe there is something wrong with the windings inside the gauge and therefore probably no way of fixing it besides replacing the gauge entirely. Porsche wants over £600 for a new fuel / coolant gauge in English! I could possibly wire in an aftermarket gauge and connect it to the existing sensor if the resistance is compatible.
There was a little bit of weeping on the front and rear (possibly either the sump gasket or the front and rear main seals), but nothing major. I tightened most of the hose clamps for the coolant system after pressure testing it again to 15 PSI. The A/C compressor appears to be weeping oil from the seal between the two body halves, I think others have had this issue and still had working A/C, will keep an eye on it for now.
I did this.
A few weeks ago I took the car to a car meet on a pretty hot day and I got stuck in traffic at a busy junction, the car got pretty hot and lost some coolant, but appeared to be fine after I topped it up and I drove home without incident and temps / oil pressure all good.
I've fitted a new coolant reservoir cap in case that had failed.
So yesterday I decided to make sure I'd bled the cooling system properly and run the car up to temp at home, the engine temperature appeared to be fine but it burped coolant everywhere. On investigation I noticed a problem with the fans, where only the left side fan was engaging, so I tested the fans using the Clarks Garage procedure and after un-plugging and plugging the fan power connectors, it all appears to be working correctly, with both fans running when jumpered or the A/C is switched on. I'm going to test it again to check in case it is the fan thermoswitch that is the problem.
The radiator was very hot so don't think I have a problem with water circulation.
I've also had another look at the coolant gauge as my earlier work did not resolve the issue, it was still pegging at maximum randomly.
I took it out of the cluster and connected it to my bench DC power supply, I wired a 47R ohm resistor in-line with the sensor input and noticed that if I tipped the gauge then it would peg at max. When I moved the gauge around it would either peg at maximum or return to the correct reading. I tried cleaning up an exposed wires and contacts with alcohol and used compressed air to blow out any dirt or dust from within the gauge windings. Although it behaved slightly better it was still pegging at maximum when moving the gauge around and rotating it.
It leads me to believe there is something wrong with the windings inside the gauge and therefore probably no way of fixing it besides replacing the gauge entirely. Porsche wants over £600 for a new fuel / coolant gauge in English! I could possibly wire in an aftermarket gauge and connect it to the existing sensor if the resistance is compatible.
Little update, I ran the car up to temp again.
Good news: The coolant temp gauge appears to be working correctly now (will see how long that lasts).
Bad news: The cooling fans take too long to kick-in and when they do only the left side fan comes on.
From my testing I've ruled out the relay as I can jumper the connector at the thermo-switch and get both fans running at both speeds (this also means the resistors for slow speed are working). I can also turn on the A/C and get both fans running at slow speed. So logically the only thing it could be is the thermofan switch, so I've ordered a new Febi one for £9.50 (after discount) from partsinmotion (see below).
Good news: The coolant temp gauge appears to be working correctly now (will see how long that lasts).
Bad news: The cooling fans take too long to kick-in and when they do only the left side fan comes on.
From my testing I've ruled out the relay as I can jumper the connector at the thermo-switch and get both fans running at both speeds (this also means the resistors for slow speed are working). I can also turn on the A/C and get both fans running at slow speed. So logically the only thing it could be is the thermofan switch, so I've ordered a new Febi one for £9.50 (after discount) from partsinmotion (see below).
scam75
Well-known member
My gauge works for a bit after it's been disturbed, like any time I change a rugby ball. Interesting to see how long yours lasts, if it holds up or not.
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