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1986 951 UPGRADES ?

PSH said:
Dan944t said:
i’ve got a catch can on the front right behind the nearside front light, so it’s sort of in the way now i suppose, will have to move it else where if i want to pipe it somewhere there but not really sure where to put it



Hi Dan

I have my catch tank where the charcoal canister used to be, I have a large bore silicone hose which goes through the hole that the canister hose used to use, a bracket was made using the original canister mounting points to hold the can in place.
This is where it sits, I think we may have made a better bracket later, can't remember..

95pGkTf.jpg


This picture helps to show where the hose runs, you can see it running along near the top of the bulkhead and into the wing.

tJd6URi.jpg


H, the position that Dan has his air filter which as rightly been pointed out by Paul to not be in a good place is where that adaptor that I have will put it. This was back in the day where modifying 951's was relatively new, hell, back then we didn't use a 3 BAR FPR, we just squeezed the original a little to increase pressure. This was actually the direction given by many aftermarket parts suppliers 20+ years ago. IIRC instructions were given on LR's website, along with others.

Pete


hi Pete, thanks for that idea never thought if that area,..problem is i like it to be easily accessible , so will be putting my standard air box and K&N filter back on i think till i n afford a maf kit, so will leave where it is as i fabricated some brackets up and it’s nicely bolted in place for now. when i change AFM to maf kit i will think about where i will put it, even if i have to buy or custom make another can to fit maybe on the left near the power steeering bottle or something?
 
Beware of fitting the tank near the exhaust manifold...IIRC LR used to suggest fitting theirs there...not a good idea due to possible fire risk, not sure if a car caught fire or not but think they changed their suggestion...could be wrong...memory a little hazing these days...
 
yea i know it’s a hot area, i was thinking of making a heat shield if i do, but will have a proper look when the time comes as to wheres the best options. not a lot of room left really unless i mount it below which may have to be.
 
Hess, not sure if you are sorted with regards to a chipset, I have a set of Lyndsey Racing chips, 24 pin for a 220 car if you are interested, they need to be run with a 3 bar FPR and some form of boost control.
Jim.
 
@Frenchy thanks for the offer how much are you looking for the chip ?

Ultimately like all the lads suggested i should go for a chip tuned to my specific car - from chipwizards which i will do later on.

Thanks
 
hesketh said:
@Frenchy thanks for the offer how much are you looking for the chip ?

Ultimately like all the lads suggested i should go for a chip tuned to my specific car - from chipwizards which i will do later on.

Thanks


I wouldn't spend hours on a rolling road for just a bit more.
 
blade7 said:
I wouldn't spend hours on a rolling road for just a bit more.



Ahh...but it's not just 'a bit more' it could be substantially more, also it's not just about the extra power, it's also about the safety and longevity of the engine. Only a custom written chip after time spent on a dyno can give you both.
 
People have run off the shelf Lindsey/Promax/JMG chips for decades, some of those chips have several fuel/ignition settings. Generic chip mapping is usually fairly conservative, so safety/longevity isn't usually an issue. Custom chips are for the track/pub/forums.
 
I can't agree with that one Paul, custom chips are the only way to go for a properly tuned car, ask any tuner or manufacturer/supplier of the various kits out there. Ask Jon Mitchel, Tom Barker, John at Vitesse, Rouge, Wayne, or any of the 951 tuning guru's etc etc... custom chip is the ultimate for performance and safety, a generic chip is very much a 'halfway' house.... I wonder how many of the destroyed 951's over the years had custom chips or were they perhaps a generic chip which was pushed too far by its owner?
 

Depends what you do really. The more you deviate from the manufacture‘a standard the more you need a custom chipset.


I ran a Promax/Lindsey "Stage 2" setup for many years with no issues and 318bhp on the dyno. It was a suite of components made to work together and it did work very well. The chips are on eBay at the moment (along with loads of other bits too, special price for anybody off here) [;)] and the LR Wastegate will be shortly too. (Got a massive Tial F46 to fit with an eye to some future bigger numbers).
 
i would say everyone is correct here,.....but in Heskeths case who only wants a slight power mod , and who’s said that he doesn’t really want to spend loads and doesn’t really want loads of power , then i would say that his best option is chipset , manual boost controller , chipset ,DPW,3 bar fuel preasure reg and a k&N pannel filter.

Personally as ive said to him before the money and time should be spent on re newing belts rollers water pump electrical system , vacuum hoses system , braking system, bushes suspension ect ,.......before even attempting to up the power in any way, if the car is to be kept and enjoyed and be safe . then there’s the turbos health to look at ect .
power mods should be the last thing after the car had been made healthy

the problem in my opinion is if someone’s budget is minimal on power mods on a car that is unknown to them, really the advice should strongly be what’s the budget and go from there as the health of a 30 + year old car is more important than the initial power mods. i know everyone wants more power straight away including myself when i first got bitten by promaxs boost inhancer but even i did the right thing after that and spent a good many years and a few £000’s on renuing all the worn and tired components listed above , untill i finally let myself start my power mods.

once the health of the car is sorted and thoroughly done, a chipset by a reputable company and k&n filter, DPW,3 bar reg and manual boost controller will be ample power for what he wants and more , and as long as he doesn’t up the recommended boost levels for his correct set up the car will give him many many years of stronger power and reliability.

Ps. have you got your car yet ? and if so have you had a look at the wastegate ? ect

Daniel
 
PSH said:
I can't agree with that one Paul, custom chips are the only way to go for a properly tuned car, ask any tuner or manufacturer/supplier of the various kits out there. Ask Jon Mitchel, Tom Barker, John at Vitesse, Rouge, Wayne, or any of the 951 tuning guru's etc etc... custom chip is the ultimate for performance and safety, a generic chip is very much a 'halfway' house.... I wonder how many of the destroyed 951's over the years had custom chips or were they perhaps a generic chip which was pushed too far by its owner?


I'm going to agree with Daniel in this case. And AFAIK though Jon Mitchell and Rogue Tuning sold their own off the shelf chips. And Promax claimed they tweaked the Lindsey chips too. You pays your money etc...
 
They all sell generic chips, it's easy money....I would also agree with Dan when dealing with an unknown car.
 
PSH said:
They all sell generic chips, it's easy money....I would also agree with Dan when dealing with an unknown car.


I think Detection Techniques were one of the first companies in the UK to crack the Sierra Cosworth Weber Marelli ECU back in the 80's, took them months if I remember right.
 
hi all !

hope everyone is keeping well.

as @dan944t said quite rightly i'm first going to focus on getting the car serviced, belts, rollers and wp changed and then drive it for a little while.
after this i will then add chipset , manual boost controller , chipset ,DPW,3 bar fuel pressure reg and a k&N panel filter.
as this is more than enough for me on this car and also i dont want to be throwing loads of money into is as i've got a few other projects on the go too

with regards to the car i should be getting it this week as the seller had been ill over the last week hence i couldn't get it last weekend,

as soon as i get it ill post photos inside, outside, underside etc...

thank you all
 
Hi all

hope you are all well & enjoying this amazing weather !

i went to quickly go and see the car today - good news is MOT is now on with no advisories

unfortunately car will be delivered on Monday as a locksmith is fitting new locks and keys and a few other minor jobs.

i had a look at the tyres and they are a brand i've never heard of -

Front
Accelera ALPHA 225/45 R17 94 W XL

Rear
Accelera Phi 255/40 ZR17 W XL

I will be keeping the alloys as they are turbo twist 17" - what tyres should be on the car ?

thanks

h
 
Wow - those tyres are the cheapest of the cheap. makes you question why else has been skimped on so give it a very good looking over.


I’d probably go for Yokohama AD08RS as they’ll see you right for all manner of road driving and the odd trackday too.
£90 each for the fronts and £130 each for the rears from Camskill
 
@eldavo sorry for the late reply I got called back to work last week so have been super busy

yes i've never heard of the brand and thought they were cheap !

Thanks for the tip on the Yokohama AD08RS ill look into them

Hi all !

The car has been delivered please see pics in the link below.

https://ibb.co/album/RTk9Vk
@dan944t I’ll have a look under the car when its a bit dryer !


Also I’ve noticed something up with the car when I drop from a fast speed down to a slower speed it kind of cuts out / stalls
What could be causing this ?

Also when idilling the car revs go up and down what could Be causing this to happen ?

The cars booked in for a belt water pump and rollers change in August at Whitebear garage.

Thanks
H
 
Could be a number of things, if the idle is surging it could be a bit lean at idle due to an air leak in one of the many pipes. Could be the idle valve, could be the throttle position switch or just a badly set idle
 

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