1986 951 UPGRADES ?
- Thread starter hesketh
- Start date
hesketh
New member
Hiya Pete,
Oh seriously how quick after did the HG fail ?!
Yes very true is there a definite way to test how good a HG is ?
The ones i know of are - compression test, block tester with the fluid, bubbling/over flowing expansion tank when car is running.
I've heard about Cometic are there products good ?
Okay thats good news so its a nice and solid daily driver, my 944 2.7L was my daily until i sold it on.
Thanks
h
Oh seriously how quick after did the HG fail ?!
Yes very true is there a definite way to test how good a HG is ?
The ones i know of are - compression test, block tester with the fluid, bubbling/over flowing expansion tank when car is running.
I've heard about Cometic are there products good ?
Okay thats good news so its a nice and solid daily driver, my 944 2.7L was my daily until i sold it on.
Thanks
h
scam75
Well-known member
I got a few hundred miles after the upgrades. Turbo destroyed itself at the same time. Intercooler needed replacing as full of crap. Got the head refreshed when it was off, replaced intercooler, bottom end was fine but done the big ends anyway. Turbo rebuilt. Good news is 8 years and 45k miles later all still good, but costly at the time!!
Stuart
Stuart
hesketh
New member
@scam75 damn thats such a shame so quickly after the upgrades !
Yes i bet it was costly ! But all worthwhile for sure, i just don't want my HG to go after i start to upgrade.
Im going to start with smaller upgrades such as
1) 3BAR FPR
2)LR Boost Enhancer
3)K&N Panel Filter
4) LR High Performance Fuel Pump
do you think i will see a difference with them ^ or will it not make much of a difference.
EDIT - after those upgrades
i will install
Haywards & Scott 3" stainless exhaust system
speak to Chip-wizards for a new chip
thanks
h
Yes i bet it was costly ! But all worthwhile for sure, i just don't want my HG to go after i start to upgrade.
Im going to start with smaller upgrades such as
1) 3BAR FPR
2)LR Boost Enhancer
3)K&N Panel Filter
4) LR High Performance Fuel Pump
do you think i will see a difference with them ^ or will it not make much of a difference.
EDIT - after those upgrades
i will install
Haywards & Scott 3" stainless exhaust system
speak to Chip-wizards for a new chip
thanks
h
Unless the HG is already leaking a test won't tell you its condition, bad service history and rust coloured coolant might give a hint. More power means more heat, the HG usually fails at number 4 cylinder. There's a small design flaw in the head, a pocket of air can develope at the back of the head over number 4 pot...this builds to steam which eats into the HG. Many builders fit a steam vent to drain this off and thus stop this from happening, yours truly included. I honestly can't remember how soon the HG blew, I do recall Waynes words about it might fail still being fresh in my mind, so perhaps a year or less. HG's can fail even on standard cars so it can happen with or without any mods.
As for Cometic, they are superb, I don't know of one failing, they are multi-layed steel, not your usual HG material.
As for Cometic, they are superb, I don't know of one failing, they are multi-layed steel, not your usual HG material.
IMHO the boost enhancer isn't worth the money...you won't need a better fuel pump or 3 Bar regulator until later in your quest for power.
For a real improvement you can't beat starting with the DPW, MBC,3 BAR FPR and chips.
If after this you are worried about the HG you can still turn the boost down to normal if so desired.
For a real improvement you can't beat starting with the DPW, MBC,3 BAR FPR and chips.
If after this you are worried about the HG you can still turn the boost down to normal if so desired.
hesketh
New member
@PSH Yes i just watched this youtube video talking about the coolant drain stem -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKqui4pvT9M around 2.15mins
Is it a big job drilling into the cylinder head for the stem ?
Indeed thats very true all cars are prone to HG failure even with mods.
When i get all my belts, rollers and water pump changed do you think I should get the garage to install a new Cometic HG ?
Whats the sort of price to replace a HG on a 944 turbo ?
Okay i think ill change my list
what DPW & MBC should i go for any reccs ?
after those i will get a 3bar FPR and chipping done.
Thanks so much
h
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKqui4pvT9M around 2.15mins
Is it a big job drilling into the cylinder head for the stem ?
Indeed thats very true all cars are prone to HG failure even with mods.
When i get all my belts, rollers and water pump changed do you think I should get the garage to install a new Cometic HG ?
Whats the sort of price to replace a HG on a 944 turbo ?
Okay i think ill change my list
what DPW & MBC should i go for any reccs ?
after those i will get a 3bar FPR and chipping done.
Thanks so much
h
The vent job is a simple job, you don't need to buy the LR kit, a BSP elbow fitting and suitable length of clear hose plus connectors will do the job.
Not sure on HG price, not had to pay for one for nearly 2 decades. If there's no record of it being done by a past owner then yes I would get it done, any garage should be able to fit a cometic, you might be best to source this yourself although it depends on whether the head needs skimming which can mean but not always that a thicker gasket is required..
Regarding your revised list, the thing is, all 4 of those items need to be done at the same time.
You would fit the DPW, MBC and 3 BAR FPR together and then get the car chipoed, don't increase boost until it is chipped.
DPW choice is either LR or tial of which IIRC there are two sizes. Tial used to require some mods to the exhaust, LR is a direct bolt on...not sure if Tial still requires the extra work or not today.
Not sure on HG price, not had to pay for one for nearly 2 decades. If there's no record of it being done by a past owner then yes I would get it done, any garage should be able to fit a cometic, you might be best to source this yourself although it depends on whether the head needs skimming which can mean but not always that a thicker gasket is required..
Regarding your revised list, the thing is, all 4 of those items need to be done at the same time.
You would fit the DPW, MBC and 3 BAR FPR together and then get the car chipoed, don't increase boost until it is chipped.
DPW choice is either LR or tial of which IIRC there are two sizes. Tial used to require some mods to the exhaust, LR is a direct bolt on...not sure if Tial still requires the extra work or not today.
edh
New member
PSH said:
It's a known unknown - if the HG is original, it might be pretty borderline by now. But who knows, it might have been replaced just a few years ago. Your options are
a. Get it done when you get the belts changed
b. Allow for £500 ish in your maintenance fund in case it does.
scam75
Well-known member
As Pete says, the best start off, and by far the best bang for buck of any upgrades, is DPW, MBC, FPR and chipset, which should be done together. The LR DPW is straight bolt on, no adapters. If you pick up a 2nd hand one, like I did, change the diaphragm before you fit it. LR can supply them. The LR one uses the original WG flanges with the shiny red anodised DPW attached to the top. I would also recommend getting new studs, washers and bolts for the swap over. And yeah, get the HG done, may have said that already!!
Stuart
Stuart
hesketh
New member
I think the safest thing is for me to get a quote when the car arrives with the all the belts & getting the HG (Cometic) done as this will future proof me for a while... fingers crossed ! as @edh suggested.
Like @blade7 said I wont modify anything within the first few months I will drive it hard and see what needs to be fixed even before upgrades. As the car has been stood for a little while.
@PSH thanks for letting me know re- stem tube rather than buying LR's version. I will most probs go for LR's version of the DPW as its easier to fit - like for like.
@scam75 yes as you said LR is straight bolt on which is what i want - just easier ! Ill have a look around if i can find any on ebay US, thanks for letting me know.
Thank you all
h
Like @blade7 said I wont modify anything within the first few months I will drive it hard and see what needs to be fixed even before upgrades. As the car has been stood for a little while.
@PSH thanks for letting me know re- stem tube rather than buying LR's version. I will most probs go for LR's version of the DPW as its easier to fit - like for like.
@scam75 yes as you said LR is straight bolt on which is what i want - just easier ! Ill have a look around if i can find any on ebay US, thanks for letting me know.
Thank you all
h
Hi,
Sorry I am going to throw a spanner in the works now! I would replace with a standard HG unless you are going to go for over 20Psi and uprated head studs. Many will disagree , at least one who did was sweeping up bits of block out of the road!
The problem with older HG's are the coolant areas rot and there is little support to the 'fire' ring so it pushes outwards into the space. A new one shaould last at least 10 years especially if oyu keep the coolant mix correct.
If you are gong standalone engine management that will monitor and protect your engine if a cylinder starts to run a bit lean or develop knocks cometic every day but for modified standard management stick with a standard gasket. If your mixture runs lean or you get a bad batch of fuel worse case you will get a big cloud of steam out the back not a totalled engine.
Which reminds me keep an eye on oil level - especially if you spend time on track, keep it close to maximum - hard cornering on sticky tyres and low oil can also lead to disappointing end!
Waste gate:- definitely go for a dual port I would go for a Tial, the Lindsey is a modified standard item so the valve seat / valve body is already 30+ years old they can and do crack internally. A tial with adaptor plates is all new - though I have heard there are some cheap Chinese copies so be careful with an ebay bargain.
Manual boost controller is ok but an electronic one is better if you can afford it - I always meant to get around to adding a manual valve in the boost plumbing set to open just above my set boost - I wanted to run with a whistle or a duck caller so if something went wrong in the boost circuit I would get an audible alert - especially after something went wrong in the boost controller and I hit something like 36psi briefly (my standard HG held), lively in 4th gear in the wet.
Boost gauge - standard dash has a gauge that show atmospheric then boost so when it shows 1 bar that is zero boost 1.8 bar is about what you should see on a standard car - the figures were slightly different between 220 and 250 but only 0.5 bar 18 to 20 psi will be off the top of the gauge so you need a boost gauge for a modified car. It is also worth getting an airfuel ratio meter and some form of knock sensing (though I never got around to that myself) - the standard knock sensor can only retard the ignition 6 or 8 degrees ( I cant recall exactly) but it may not be enough on a hot day with a bad batch of fuel.
Worth looking at plug leads they can look ok but if they are original and you open the bonnet in the dark they spark all over the place. Fuel lines also important to keep an eye on especially ones over the hot exhaust to the fuel rail.
Dump valve can leak check the diaphragm on top as well as for good seating - check all boost / vacuum lines for leaks.
Also worth doing a compression/ leak down test before you get to carried away!
There is a steel pipe under the intake manifold that runs from the air oil separator to the 'J boot' these can fill up with carbon, scale and rust which if it works loose gets sucked straight into the turbo inlet - bad!
I ran my coupe from 80,000 miles to over 180,000 miles as a (mostly) daily driver it was modified for most of those - boost enhancer / chip / hybrid turbo / DPW / EBC Injectors vitesse maf + piggyback / rebuilt throttle body/ disconnected Idle stabaliser / new vacuum lines etc. on the chassis tech art springs and new standard shocks / big black brakes with disks to match/ leda coil overs
I have KW to bolt on, fixed headlight kit etc. but its resting as it needs new bores and I am busy with family work home boats etc. and (whisper mode on) I also want to drop an LS3 in as I have had enough keeping on top of the turbo lump! and want to drive it without worrying about new noises! (whisper mode off!)
I did nearly MOT it as it is just because it has been sitting around since we went to bedford a few years back - I recently discovered a boat I have had sitting around for longer than the car has water in the number 1 cylinder so that has slipped in front on the jobs to do list - boat lives outside car is cosy indoors.
I Would have got so much more done if I was furloughed, but at least I am still earning!
Best regards,
Tony
Sorry I am going to throw a spanner in the works now! I would replace with a standard HG unless you are going to go for over 20Psi and uprated head studs. Many will disagree , at least one who did was sweeping up bits of block out of the road!
The problem with older HG's are the coolant areas rot and there is little support to the 'fire' ring so it pushes outwards into the space. A new one shaould last at least 10 years especially if oyu keep the coolant mix correct.
If you are gong standalone engine management that will monitor and protect your engine if a cylinder starts to run a bit lean or develop knocks cometic every day but for modified standard management stick with a standard gasket. If your mixture runs lean or you get a bad batch of fuel worse case you will get a big cloud of steam out the back not a totalled engine.
Which reminds me keep an eye on oil level - especially if you spend time on track, keep it close to maximum - hard cornering on sticky tyres and low oil can also lead to disappointing end!
Waste gate:- definitely go for a dual port I would go for a Tial, the Lindsey is a modified standard item so the valve seat / valve body is already 30+ years old they can and do crack internally. A tial with adaptor plates is all new - though I have heard there are some cheap Chinese copies so be careful with an ebay bargain.
Manual boost controller is ok but an electronic one is better if you can afford it - I always meant to get around to adding a manual valve in the boost plumbing set to open just above my set boost - I wanted to run with a whistle or a duck caller so if something went wrong in the boost circuit I would get an audible alert - especially after something went wrong in the boost controller and I hit something like 36psi briefly (my standard HG held), lively in 4th gear in the wet.
Boost gauge - standard dash has a gauge that show atmospheric then boost so when it shows 1 bar that is zero boost 1.8 bar is about what you should see on a standard car - the figures were slightly different between 220 and 250 but only 0.5 bar 18 to 20 psi will be off the top of the gauge so you need a boost gauge for a modified car. It is also worth getting an airfuel ratio meter and some form of knock sensing (though I never got around to that myself) - the standard knock sensor can only retard the ignition 6 or 8 degrees ( I cant recall exactly) but it may not be enough on a hot day with a bad batch of fuel.
Worth looking at plug leads they can look ok but if they are original and you open the bonnet in the dark they spark all over the place. Fuel lines also important to keep an eye on especially ones over the hot exhaust to the fuel rail.
Dump valve can leak check the diaphragm on top as well as for good seating - check all boost / vacuum lines for leaks.
Also worth doing a compression/ leak down test before you get to carried away!
There is a steel pipe under the intake manifold that runs from the air oil separator to the 'J boot' these can fill up with carbon, scale and rust which if it works loose gets sucked straight into the turbo inlet - bad!
I ran my coupe from 80,000 miles to over 180,000 miles as a (mostly) daily driver it was modified for most of those - boost enhancer / chip / hybrid turbo / DPW / EBC Injectors vitesse maf + piggyback / rebuilt throttle body/ disconnected Idle stabaliser / new vacuum lines etc. on the chassis tech art springs and new standard shocks / big black brakes with disks to match/ leda coil overs
I have KW to bolt on, fixed headlight kit etc. but its resting as it needs new bores and I am busy with family work home boats etc. and (whisper mode on) I also want to drop an LS3 in as I have had enough keeping on top of the turbo lump! and want to drive it without worrying about new noises! (whisper mode off!)
I did nearly MOT it as it is just because it has been sitting around since we went to bedford a few years back - I recently discovered a boat I have had sitting around for longer than the car has water in the number 1 cylinder so that has slipped in front on the jobs to do list - boat lives outside car is cosy indoors.
I Would have got so much more done if I was furloughed, but at least I am still earning!
Best regards,
Tony
hesketh
New member
@944TURBO what a reply thank you that was extremely helpful and very thorough !
So you're suggesting i should re-fit the HG with an original one not a and not a Cometic ?
Indeed i check all my oil levels regularly on all the cars and the 944T will be on exception.
Okay so LR uses some older components which are prone to cracking thats good to know,
Is the Tial DPWG a like for like swap or will i have to buy other items for it to be fitted?
Is this one okay - https://www.partsforporsche.co.uk/porsche-944-performance/195-augment-automotive-porsche-944-turbo-tial-f38-wastegate-kit.html
edit - what bar waste-gate should i get ?
I was going to get some new spark plug leads are the ones and the car i'm getting don't look like they have been changed
The fuel lines i will be replacing with these - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1986-1989-Porsche-951-944-Turbo-Stainless-Steel-Braided-Fuel-Lines-2-PCS/262131612921
For now i will go with a MBC as they are cheaper and i don't want too spend loads on the car
Yes - deffo will be doing a leak down / compression test before i do anything to the car to see what state the engine is in.
With regards to the steel pipe under the intake manifold do you know the part number ? As mine will probs have to be replaced as the car has been sitting for a while.
Wow sounds like yours has been very nicely upgraded !!
Ahh yes best get the boat sorted too - big job on the boat ?
Yes i've had a bit of extra time due to CV19 and had time to do many things that had been overdue.
Thanks very much for the response
h
So you're suggesting i should re-fit the HG with an original one not a and not a Cometic ?
Indeed i check all my oil levels regularly on all the cars and the 944T will be on exception.
Okay so LR uses some older components which are prone to cracking thats good to know,
Is the Tial DPWG a like for like swap or will i have to buy other items for it to be fitted?
Is this one okay - https://www.partsforporsche.co.uk/porsche-944-performance/195-augment-automotive-porsche-944-turbo-tial-f38-wastegate-kit.html
edit - what bar waste-gate should i get ?
I was going to get some new spark plug leads are the ones and the car i'm getting don't look like they have been changed
The fuel lines i will be replacing with these - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1986-1989-Porsche-951-944-Turbo-Stainless-Steel-Braided-Fuel-Lines-2-PCS/262131612921
For now i will go with a MBC as they are cheaper and i don't want too spend loads on the car
Yes - deffo will be doing a leak down / compression test before i do anything to the car to see what state the engine is in.
With regards to the steel pipe under the intake manifold do you know the part number ? As mine will probs have to be replaced as the car has been sitting for a while.
Wow sounds like yours has been very nicely upgraded !!
Ahh yes best get the boat sorted too - big job on the boat ?
Yes i've had a bit of extra time due to CV19 and had time to do many things that had been overdue.
Thanks very much for the response
h
A standard head gasket will usually let go before the bottom end if something goes wrong and on boost levels below 21psi will hold together fine when all is ok. You don't really want to run much over 18psi on a standard turbo anyway - you will just be generating heat above that. If future plans include more boost standalone etc, then a cometic will handle it better so its up to you!
Don't know the part number of the top of my head for the pipe but I just gave mine a thorough cleaning when the inlet manifold was off and ran some wire wool through it on a piece of string - I then also put a catch can between it and the pipe into the J boot - that way any oil mist - a surprising amount of water in the winter and debris cannot go back into the intake. Some people run a catch can that vents to atmosphere I prefer to keep the vacuum.
Fuel lines on some models had a recall and they should all have been done by now but worth a check - you might get some shiny new porsche ones - though the ones you linked look more shiny!
Forgot I also had an uprated intercooler / dump valve / hard pipes / refreshed head with new valve guides and mild cleaning of inlet ports had some valves in there too as some were showing signs of wear 20k or so miles ago.
Mine was spoilt by boost leaks that let metered air escape - it was running very rich and I knew it but was relying on it then and was very busy with work, my bores went from smooth and silky c170k miles to scratched and lumpy in less that 15k miles thanks to the fuel washing out the oil. I have another one 944T cab that is virtually standard though but dont seem to get many miles on that - its overdue a cambelt on time but hasnt reached the 2500 retension yet on the last one - criminal!
Boat is V6 mercruiser and needs the engine stripping now as it seized with number 1 cylinder full of water, will see what I find - otherwise was almost ready to go back in the water - steering refresh and general cleaning) I have another smaller boat as well that always seems to need minor attention
There is some info to digest here - over 10 years old now but it kept us amused back in the day!
http://www.cannell.co.uk/944%20UK%20League.htm
Don't know the part number of the top of my head for the pipe but I just gave mine a thorough cleaning when the inlet manifold was off and ran some wire wool through it on a piece of string - I then also put a catch can between it and the pipe into the J boot - that way any oil mist - a surprising amount of water in the winter and debris cannot go back into the intake. Some people run a catch can that vents to atmosphere I prefer to keep the vacuum.
Fuel lines on some models had a recall and they should all have been done by now but worth a check - you might get some shiny new porsche ones - though the ones you linked look more shiny!
Forgot I also had an uprated intercooler / dump valve / hard pipes / refreshed head with new valve guides and mild cleaning of inlet ports had some valves in there too as some were showing signs of wear 20k or so miles ago.
Mine was spoilt by boost leaks that let metered air escape - it was running very rich and I knew it but was relying on it then and was very busy with work, my bores went from smooth and silky c170k miles to scratched and lumpy in less that 15k miles thanks to the fuel washing out the oil. I have another one 944T cab that is virtually standard though but dont seem to get many miles on that - its overdue a cambelt on time but hasnt reached the 2500 retension yet on the last one - criminal!
Boat is V6 mercruiser and needs the engine stripping now as it seized with number 1 cylinder full of water, will see what I find - otherwise was almost ready to go back in the water - steering refresh and general cleaning) I have another smaller boat as well that always seems to need minor attention
There is some info to digest here - over 10 years old now but it kept us amused back in the day!
http://www.cannell.co.uk/944%20UK%20League.htm
hesketh
New member
hmm okay i see what you mean. I just want to future proof the HG as best as i can and for as long as i can.
and yes thats true - personally i dont want to raise the boost level very high - just within the limits of what my car can handle.
oh okay thats good news re - fuel lines and if they haven't been changed you say Porsche can do them for me ? yes Lart's Porsche Parts are super shiny !
damn thats a shame that your bores went out so quickly
how come you don't use the cab that often ?
nice engine on the boat 4.3l v6 ?
i have that website saved in my favourites - Ricks' 944 is insane !! :0
best
h
and yes thats true - personally i dont want to raise the boost level very high - just within the limits of what my car can handle.
oh okay thats good news re - fuel lines and if they haven't been changed you say Porsche can do them for me ? yes Lart's Porsche Parts are super shiny !
damn thats a shame that your bores went out so quickly
how come you don't use the cab that often ?
nice engine on the boat 4.3l v6 ?
i have that website saved in my favourites - Ricks' 944 is insane !! :0
best
h
Dan944t
New member
my cometic mls gaskets i get made from america are around £200 i personally have 4-5 layers can’t remember? you may only need 3? all depends on how much the heads had skinmed off and calculations need to be made to measure what you have after compared to spec, so only after the head has been skimmed will you know what size gasket you will beed and then prices will be dependant on that, so i would assume less than £200.
my Tial Dual Port Wastegate is a direct bolt on however is very tight up against the exhuast on one of the vacume line nuts. something i’m not bothered about as i will be fabricating my own custom 3” exhuast in near future.
my advice to you would strongly be , figure out your budget that your willing to spend all in one go in the mods , then let us know and we can better tell you what to go for, as it does seem to many that you can just spend £3000 on some mods bolt them on and go and play, but believe me first hand it doesn’t work that way unless you are cutting corners.
i thought this would be the case many years ago, when i got bit by the bug from a fantastic little company called promax ( no longer around ??) this all started with the boost enhancer , this gave me power becuase it shows that your wastegate spring is buggered and not holding boots and is letting all the build up gasses escape through the exhuast instead of giving you boost.
my point is , one mod leads to a multiple amount of mods to get the first mod working properly, just like pete said if you put these things on , don’t turn the boost up until you get it mapped properly or at least chipped, as if you don’t you will deternate and risk your engine.
i can tell you first hand that ive gone through x3 different stages of chips and now have a live map from Wayne the wizard. Somebody test drove my car and put the boost too high and deternated my engine and i still have the piston to prove it, melted holes in them, and found a split right through in my cylinder, so to keep my number the same on my short block to the rest of the car i went through major surgery and had them all milled off, and racing steel cylinders custom made, along with bespoke rods, and racing pistons ect ect ect . Basically becuase this happened it’s cost me around £6000 just in machine work, and i’ve not even added in all my power mods ontop of that, or the amount of days labour it took to put it all back together, then it had to be mapped , and i’m still going....... this is the slippery slope we’re talking about. i don’t mind it as it’s one of my passions and i don’t rely on it as a daily or i wouldn’t have gone this far in first place and spent the money in buying a new toy.
Apart from the programming, and machining i had done, i do all the work myself otherwise i deffinately couldn’t afford to go as far as i have.
i would have just stuck with the DPW,MBC,3bar Regulator,chipset. But as i said before , i advise to go through everything before modding, ie full service , get injectors cleaned , new leads, dizzy cap, waterpump, any pipes look old renew, oil seals at front if any oil is present. This is if you want to have a really good reliable car , then there’s the shocks , brake lines, fuel lines, bushes , tyres , wishbones, tie rods ect ect ect . big problem here with our cars is to get them up to a good safe standard to start increasing the power, it’s criminal not to maticulously go through everything that is past its sell bydate and needs replacing, if it hasn’t already, all these things will eat up money and time fast! and i’m honestly not trying to put you off or tell you what to do but instead pass on my advice, as i’ve been through it. i thought my 944 turbo would be fine if i just changed a few things like the suspension full service ect , but when my car got faster i soon realised my brakes weren’t up to the job, so had them overhauled and performance brake lines and fluid ect ...... then it was like a different car and i became more confident with continuing the mods. i also paid a fortune at promax getting a four wheel lazer alignment ?? but i went through the right path as i wanted to know i wasnt going to be a danger once i upped the power. believe me these things turn into rockets once modded up to a certain level,.....but please don’t be fooled into thinking it will only cost a few thousands to get big power, as if you do too much the wrong way, you will ruin your car.
hope this hasn’t come across negative as that’s not the way i wanted to come across, i’m more looking out for you a nd giving you my years of experience, im 39 now and have driven and owned and worked on a 944 since i was 17 years old, so i know a thing or two about them. i’ve only just sold my first 944 from when i was 17 ??
i would say get things up to scratch my advice would be take it to a porsche speacialist, to check over, not just an independent garage as they don’t know the model inside out. if you can find a speacialist they will be able to give it an inspection and give you a list of things to change , espeacially if you tell them you are looking to increase the power a little so want to check any potential issues that may need addressing. i guarantee there will be a fare few, these cars are 30 years old and rubber perishes but doesn’t always look it until you try to bend it the other way ect on a modded 944 turbo your just asking for head scratching trouble if you don’t renew every thing rubber and tube related , to an extent of corse, but don’t forget it’s always 30 years old materials.
after your happy your car is healthy i would suggest as Pete said , MBC, DPW,3bar FPR,cleaned injectors, K&N pannel filter, Chipse/MAP , cometic head gasket, skimmed head new stem seals, relapped valves , checking all valve guilds , springs while it’s off ect, new waterpump, cam belts and rollers/tensioners and change all the service components i suggested and you will have a superb reliable engine all being well from the beggining of course ??
i would get the overal health up to scratch first as if your changing all these service items it is eye watering in itself and if your not prepared to do this before modding then unfortunately your only asking for trouble.
all the best
Daniel
hesketh
New member
hiya dan944t
are you running the stock exhaust with the Tial Dual Port Wastegate ? will it be a tight fit for me too ?
yes i suppose thats the best way of looking at it set a budget and see what i can achieve with that.
yes i know of promax and indeed like you say they are no longer with us.
how can i test if my turbo isn't giving me enough boost or if it leaking ?
this is most probs what i will go for - DPW,MBC,3bar Regulator,Chipset...
once i have had my engine checked over and had a full service, front belt overhaul, water-pump, rollers, injectors cleaned , leads, dizzy cap, and any other things i need doing only then will i start to modify/upgrade the car.
no honestly you haven't come across at all in a negative way - you want me to do it the propper way and i thank you very much for outlining it step by step.
the last thing i want to do is to jump into modding the 944 and doing in work and killing my engine or something alike.
this is why i asked this question on the forum to gain valuable and excellent knowledge from all of you and every single reply has helped me in understanding the tuning of the 944t.
definitely i couldn't agree more lets get the engine healthy and up to scratch and then start to play with the mods.
thanks so much Daniel
best
h
are you running the stock exhaust with the Tial Dual Port Wastegate ? will it be a tight fit for me too ?
yes i suppose thats the best way of looking at it set a budget and see what i can achieve with that.
yes i know of promax and indeed like you say they are no longer with us.
how can i test if my turbo isn't giving me enough boost or if it leaking ?
this is most probs what i will go for - DPW,MBC,3bar Regulator,Chipset...
once i have had my engine checked over and had a full service, front belt overhaul, water-pump, rollers, injectors cleaned , leads, dizzy cap, and any other things i need doing only then will i start to modify/upgrade the car.
no honestly you haven't come across at all in a negative way - you want me to do it the propper way and i thank you very much for outlining it step by step.
the last thing i want to do is to jump into modding the 944 and doing in work and killing my engine or something alike.
this is why i asked this question on the forum to gain valuable and excellent knowledge from all of you and every single reply has helped me in understanding the tuning of the 944t.
definitely i couldn't agree more lets get the engine healthy and up to scratch and then start to play with the mods.
thanks so much Daniel
best
h
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