Anywhere else To buy a Superseries Turbo charger 61,65,75 other than Lindsey Racing ??

[Dan944t]

Pete what would you say our cars are safely achievable then?

 

[blade7]

I'll be 60 next birthday... how bloody frightening is that?...far too old for playing silly ****s with cars...I'll grow up one day.. honest..

My Mum is 80 next month, she said when you're 80 you wish you were 60....

 

[PSH]

I'll be 60 next birthday... how bloody frightening is that?...far too old for playing silly ****s with cars...I'll grow up one day.. honest..

My Mum is 80 next month, she said when you're 80 you wish you were 60....

haha... oh how true that is... we are all gone in a blink of an eye anyway so no point in dwelling on it..

 

[PSH]

Pete what would you say our cars are safely achievable then?

now there's a question...some of our American friends give very high figures but I treat such things with a pinch of salt, they seem to exaggerate figures greatly on their dyno's...
I wouldn't want to go too much over 400bhp depending on mods to the block, my standard block was very happy with it's then 368bhp which was held back by the standard exhaust, I suspect that with the larger exhaust it would have got very close to 400bhp even as it was then. You can use Porsche's history of racing 951's to give you a good idea. The Le Mans 924GTP which was basically a 951 engine with a 16v head was tested to 500bhp, could hold 450bhp with no problem and was detuned for the 24hr race to 420bhp for safety. As it happens this was probably a little over-cautious as the car spent less time in the pits than any other car in the race, finishing 7th. The cars it raced against had engines nearly twice it's size by comparison, when you consider the length of the straights at Le Mans, this car must have been light years ahead in the handling department. The early engines were stronger, not just the forged internals which slowly faded out of production after 1986 but the engine (M44/50)was made from a stronger alloy and it had slightly thicker cylinder walls.
The 944 is not a road car which then migrated to the race track, it was a race car first with lessons learnt going directly into the road car.

I wouldn't try for your goal of 500bhp, not without using stronger fasteners and the tune would need to be spot on. You'd need either a stand-alone EMS or MAP to control ignition, a MAF alone wouldn't cope. Keep it at 350-400 and don't drive it 'like you stole it' and you'll have a reliable car.

Of course, you could always buy a Vulcan billet block for IIRC £100k and have a 951 capable of over 3000bhp, straight lines only...

Pete

 

[Dan944t]

I see what your saying about the 500 I think I will aim to finish the mods I have in mind as and when I can , full 3” exhuast being my priority to compliment all the work thats already been done over the years, then maybe a trip to a reputable Dyno and see what she’s up to?

Powerwise at present she flies now ive adressed a few major boostvleaks but once your on the way down the slide and I’m in love with my 944s always have been, there’s no other car I want ( in my reach anyway ) it’s inevitable really that id like a little more.

on the subject of fasteners which is interesting becuase I had bought apr main block/head studs ect when I did my engine build , but i was on the phone to mr Lyndsey racing about some other
mods I bought from them and we got on the subject of torquing apr studs compared to Porsche’s standard specs and studs, and bottom line is he told me to sell them on and buy the standard Porsche items as that’s what they use on there big powered 951s with 500 + bhp
he explained the thread gaps are too close together and torque is too high for our soft blocks and overtime will lift from the threads in the blockb that’s why they only use genuine poesche with 100% success becuase they had a high percentage of fails when tgey Used to build high powered 951s with APR stud.

his words were ”I strongly advise you to get rid of the APR fasteners now” so I did

i run APR fasters on my custom Conrod’s though! But genuine Porsche main block to head stud and nut fasrerners.

 

[blade7]

I would also buy the main 3” down pipe probably from fabs speed ? Then make the rest.

Perhaps Haywood & Scott would sell you just the front part of their system?

 

[Dan944t]

I would also buy the main 3” down pipe probably from fabs speed ? Then make the rest.

Perhaps Haywood & Scott would sell you just the front part of their system?

not heard of these before, where are they based and what do they do?

will have a search tonight

 

[Dan944t]

Just had a look, looks good. Funny as I took a trip up to pipe craft in the work van though, in Basildon and they make custom exhausts. There the ones that made me think of just doing it myself as the middle to back they said would be anywhere between £350 and £450 which I can’t justify, it’s the front to me which needs the most skill where the turbos involved not the middle to back which is pretty straight forward.

I used to have the proper industrial trial sized hydraulic pipe benders but a loving family member managed to get them stollen after pestering me to lend them to him! ?? just need to get a new bottle of gas and new reg and some practice ......oh and find the time somehow ??

 

[blade7]

I used to have the proper industrial trial sized hydraulic pipe benders but a loving family member managed to get them stollen after pestering me to lend them to him! ?? just need to get a new bottle of gas and new reg and some practice ......oh and find the time somehow ??

You can probably buy all the bends, but I couldn't be arsed with all the cutting and tacking under the car to make them fit. IMO only the first half needs to be 3" on a 944 road engine anyway.

 

[Dan944t]

You can probably buy all the bends, but I couldn't be arsed with all the cutting and tacking under the car to make them fit. IMO only the first half needs to be 3" on a 944 road engine anyway.

[/quote]


Yes I was going to buy the bends as not to get any crushes from a bender , and it would be allot easier that way but yes as you say . I can’t be bothered iether unless i Could spend a few days on a ramp which could be arranged over the weekend if I asked for a favour, but would probably do it on ramps the hard way!

just found a fab speed turbo down pipe the short one for £325 posted not sure if that’s a good price or not but looks very simple to make if I can duplicate the flanges or use the existing ones? It’s just perfect fitment which is gonna be testing.

have you ever heard of anyone using a modified exhaust downpipe ? It’s not something any of the fast 951 road users use, or deffinately not that I’ve seen anyway? Maybe they are good enough?

 

[PSH]

Can't say that I've heard of that one Dan, although I have heard plenty of horror stories of badly built engines from LR...if they were pulling the threads then they had either not cleaned the threads properly (needs a soft touch not to damage the thread) and used the proper Loctite to seal or they had overtightened them during the rebuild. I don't have ARP, mine are Racewear but yes they do have a finer thread to allow greater clamping force which is what they are there for. Standard studs/bolts are fine but they are nowhere near as strong as aftermarket parts which you need when applying high boost. Good to hear you fitted stronger rod bolts, this is where things are most likely to let go in a highly modified engine as you increase the red line.

 

[blade7]

just found a fab speed turbo down pipe the short one for £325 posted not sure if that’s a good price or not but looks very simple to make if I can duplicate the flanges or use the existing ones? It’s just perfect fitment which is gonna be testing.

I think the Fabspeed one on ebay is only 2.75" anyway. That's not much bigger than chopping the standard one in half and removing the inner pipe. I don't like the fact it doesn't have the support bracket on it either.

 

[Dan944t]

Hi blade

yes it would need a bracket welded on for sure, but for £325 I could have most of my exhaust pipes for that Price minus all flanges and bends

hi Pete,

im not really clued up about the subject of LR and there power builds iether , but the way he was speaking really put me off 100% and becuase he’s said his hi bhp engines have been good for many years made me feel better.

Its the Amount of torque that APR give for our engines that then puts too much preasure on the short block sthreads that causes them to pull up from the head expanding under hard boost and head expansion.

I wasnt aware of raceware when I built my engine , and I wasn’t even planning on the full engine build as you know , so it’s been a learning curve all the way! Which I’m just glad I’m hands on and do everything myself or I probably wouldn’t be able to afford to keep her

the modification root sure isn’t cheap as most online forums lead you to believe "you can achieve 300 bhp for around £3000” yea RIGHT!!!!!! ????

 

[PSH]

Regarding a 3 inch turbo downpipe...my 3 inch doesn't have a bracket and it's fine.

 

[blade7]

Regarding a 3 inch turbo downpipe...my 3 inch doesn't have a bracket and it's fine.

Myself and Porsche would be inclined to disagree.

 

[PSH]

Regarding a 3 inch turbo downpipe...my 3 inch doesn't have a bracket and it's fine.

Myself and Porsche would be inclined to disagree.

Well after 5 years on the road all I can say is it's doing fine, no leaks and no rattles. it's such a short piece between the exhaust with it's front mount and the firmly mounted turbo that with a distance of what? 3 feet perhaps? and that with a number of curves in it, it's not going to go anywhere.

 

[blade7]

Well after 5 years on the road all I can say is it's doing fine, no leaks and no rattles. it's such a short piece between the exhaust with it's front mount and the firmly mounted turbo that with a distance of what? 3 feet perhaps? and that with a number of curves in it, it's not going to go anywhere.

Not sure I'd describe a couple of small bolts through the engine mount as firmly mounted. I see H&S incorporate a bracket on their turbo discharge pipe, and theirs is closer to a true 3" than most. I remember my Cosworth had a turbo damper fitted to cut vibration, I see the 944 bracket as performing a similar function.