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Anywhere else To buy a Superseries Turbo charger 61,65,75 other than Lindsey Racing ??

PSH said:
Eldavo said:
(He’s a Trump fan so having a secret service relative might help you negotiate a good price) [:D]


That would rule him out for me...clearly of unbalanced mind...lol
I'm not a fan, but I'd have picked him over Hilary Clinton every time.
 
"Ultraspool is direct bolt on, comes as a kit with oil line, adaptors, copper rings, banjo bolts, and oil drain gasket for $1950 shipped.”

Think that’s the CONUS shipped price though.
 
Eldavo said:
"Ultraspool is direct bolt on, comes as a kit with oil line, adaptors, copper rings, banjo bolts, and oil drain gasket for $1950 shipped.”

Think that’s the CONUS shipped price though.


This is the type I’m interested in a hybrid ball Bearing type , but the states really puts me off becuase of what they will sting for the custom tax and all When it’s over here.

i ordered a full silicone set of pipes from LR last year , then a mate just told me that he bought a cross bow and had it delivered from the states , cost him £350 posted and they where asking something ridiculous like £280 for customs charges ect.

So I investigated as my order was around £290 I think , and it worked out around £28 to ship it over to me , but then I contacted customs ect about the tax they will charge me on my items , and it was coming just shy of the value of the purchase!?? around £230ish maybe more.......absolutely ridiculous , so needless to say I cancelled my order and just made it in time .

so imagine now what a turbo from over in the states is going to cost once it’s here !? This is why I’m trying to source something elsewhere.

id love to try one of the Chinese products even to only use the body’s and get a company to use hybrid parts inside but they won’t be bolt on and I just don’t want to risk the quality of materials they use and there tolerances! I also would now preferred a straight bolt on as I think if I didn’t have all the kids it wouldn’t be an issue but as I struggle to find time as it is , after allot of thought , I’d rather pay a little extra and relieve myself of the extra headache as I’m already going to make my own 3” exhaust system one of these days, which is a mission in itself!
 
What exactly are you hoping to achieve by fitting the bigger turbo, and what supporting mods are you going to fit? I'm capable of fabricating an exhaust, but I'd still buy the down pipe from the turbo to under the car from someone else.
 
blade7 said:
What exactly are you hoping to achieve by fitting the bigger turbo, and what supporting mods are you going to fit? I'm capable of fabricating an exhaust, but I'd still buy the down pipe from the turbo to under the car from someone else.


I would also buy the main 3” down pipe probably from fabs speed ? Then make the rest.

I would just like it to spo strong and slightly quicker in the Rev range and hold it all the way with around 21psi would be my goal. Just to know it will not over heat and can handle the boost as I wouldnt put that through my k26 obviously even though it’s actually very good at 18, for piece of mind and bigger boost is why I’d want a hybrid turbo with ceramic ball bearings instead of journal if possible.

I must also add that in the future I’d like to achieve 450-500 mark when money allows so a turbo that’s capable will have to be fitted as I won’t be buying another.

Not sure what you mean by supporting mods?
 
I don't think you're going to see 450 bhp + from a 2.5 8 valve engine for very long. Then you'd have to consider the transmission, brakes and suspension to cope with it. I've said it before, but something like a TT-RS, RS3 or GT-R makes more sense as a starting point for big power.
 
blade7 said:
I don't think you're going to see 450 bhp + from a 2.5 8 valve engine for very long. Then you'd have to consider the transmission, brakes and suspension to cope with it. I've said it before, but something like a TT-RS, RS3 or GT-R makes more sense as a starting point for big power.


i understand what your saying totally!

what do you think is the most our cars can take physically on there components such as drive shafts, transmission ect take the engine out of the equation

maybe I should have that as a new thread, would be an interesting one
 
I've read the standard drive train can take 600bhp. Quite over engineered for a 250bhp car so you shouldn't have any worries on that front.

Stuart
 
I think it comes down to how hard it's driven, and limiting the boost in lower gears. I'd say a fit engine in a road car would run 18lbs for a long time. I know people have run 20 lbs +, but doing that through the gears and holding it in top are different matters. I reckon properly setup around 400 bhp can be reliable.
 
scam75 said:
I've read the standard drive train can take 600bhp. Quite over engineered for a 250bhp car so you shouldn't have any worries on that front.

Stuart
I think it's torque that breaks gearboxes, and I've read a few instances of UJ's breaking on hard launched cars.

 
What difference would a 16valve head make you reckon? Would breath 40% better at least I would have thought in standard valve size form.

its funny as when I decided to get my cylinders milled off and new steel race cylinders made, they asked me if I wanted to go stroker or 3 litre ect ,but becuase I loved my engine at 18psi tricked up with Jon Mitchell’s gear on it and and tuned by him , I didn’t really want for any more.

But now im truly on a slippery torque slope ??
 
Not sure how much better a 16v head is, perhaps around 20%. They have more valve area and the plug is in a better location. Easy to say now, but the offset ground crank, capacity increase seems to work well.
 
Pete must be around 400bhp ish with standard drive train. He does have a turbo s box in his old girl. Was WUF on standard drive train or beefed up? Turbo Tim probably know best with his 16v turbo monster and what upgrades the drive train got.

Turbo s, and 89 on 250bhp cars all had the best variant of the 016 box with hardened 1st and 2nd gears, lsd, shot peened shafts and external cooler.

As you say Blade, the UJ may be the first part to give way but I'd think you'd be nearer 500bhp and driver style dependant before you found out!

Stuart
 
Considering Pete's age [;)] and where he lives, I doubt he's pedal to the metal and using 400 for more than seconds at a time. I only drove WUF once, and it was very laggy, so perhaps that spared the drive train to an extent. I think Tim wore out 1 or 2 gearboxes, haven't spoken to him for a long time so don't know how overcame that. Sticky tyres can also be a factor.
 
blade7 said:
Considering Pete's age [;)]


What are you trying to say sir?...:)

The drivetrain on our cars is very strong, it can take a lot of abuse. Yes, I have the 89 box for extra security, the UJ's have coped very well. The clutch though is what needs beefing up, I have the Sachs motorsport 930 disc on mine, it works well but has IIRC slipped once when in high gear accelerating whilst playing with one of the supercars out there. I just backed off a fraction and it gripped and away I flew....so I guess it would fail if hitting max torque for too long...

Pete
 
Dan944t said:
What BHP are you now running Pete?
no idea.. all I can say is that it's a lot more than that given in my signature (don't forget I put another £10k into it's developement from that point), easily over the 400 mark (torque will be higher) when running at 1.5Bar which is what the ECU is currently set at for safety.
 
blade7 said:
PSH said:
blade7 said:
Considering Pete's age [;)]


What are you trying to say sir?...:)

Pete


:ROFLMAO: I don't think there's much difference in our ages.



I'll be 60 next birthday... how bloody frightening is that?...far too old for playing silly buggers with cars...I'll grow up one day.. honest..:)
 

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