scam75
Well-known member
A two would be fine, still get the 5% off and halves the delivery. You still got an S2? Does the S2 have 2 outlets? Suppose you could blank one off if not.
Another 944 Turbo Engine Rebuild Thread
- Thread starter dlknight
- Start date
A two would be fine, still get the 5% off and halves the delivery. You still got an S2? Does the S2 have 2 outlets? Suppose you could blank one off if not.
Yes, still the S2 - I'll check today and get back to you...
Ah, OK, I hadn't realised there was a difference. Mine has just one outlet. I could block it, but I'm a bit of an originality stickler I'm afraid, and it would be very visible - so rule me out on this one. Sorry!
Don't let it happen again, or I will send my stealthy assassin around to sort you guys out
After the big drive I decided to check the spark plugs and have a look under the belt covers to make sure everything was OK.
Plugs all looked good, the same, with no obvious differences.
Checked under the belt covers and all was good, nice and dry and no damage on the belts.
Whilst I was nosing around the engine bay and checking fluids, I noticed the clutch fluid reservoir looked a bit dark. After closer inspection the fluid had started to go brown. If you recall earlier in the build, I'd used a spare piece of textile braided fuel hose for the reservoir hose (NBR). It hadn't occurred to me that the hose wasn't suitable for brake fluid! Turns out you need to use EPDM hose for brake fluid, so I ordered some Cohline 2337 EPDM hose rated for brake fluid and got that fitted. After reading about David's firestarter antics with his clutch reservoir hose I opted to wrap the hose with some fibreglass heat shielding I had purchased for the turbo coolant hose.
NBR rubber fuel hose (bottom) - BAD!
EPDM rubber brake hose (top) - GOOD!
Managed to get out again on Sunday for a drive, roads were still a bit damp when I eventually got going at around 10:30am.
Car felt a bit hesitant at some points (see below for the reason).
When I got home it was time to crack out the Gunsons Gas Tester and get around to adjusting the CO level on the AFM and setting the idle speed correctly on the throttle body.
It was then I realised I'd knocked one of the vacuum hoses loose when removing the spark plugs (at least I now know why there was some hesitation).
The Gunsons Gas Tester was pretty straight-forward to use, and I got it adjusted to the 2.00% it wanted in air. The engine was nice and warm, and I had some perfectly sized hose to connect the gas tester to the analysis port that Porsche kindly provided in the engine bay (you must test here if you have a catalytic convertor fitted). Don't forget to disconnect the lambda sensor if you have one.
Before I started the adjustments it was showing around 0.2% CO (a little bit lean). After a few attempts adjusting the AFM (1/2 turn at a time) I got it bang on the 0.6% required as per the workshop manual.
I then disabled the idle control valve using a paper clip to jumper the diagnosis plug as per the workshop manual. Immediately the revs climbed above 1000rpm, so it definitely needed adjusting. Got it down to the 840rpm required as per the workshop manual. With that done the lambda sensor was reconnected and the jumper removed from the diagnostic plug. The car idled much smoother!
Took it for another quick drive and all was good.
Car felt a bit hesitant at some points (see below for the reason).
When I got home it was time to crack out the Gunsons Gas Tester and get around to adjusting the CO level on the AFM and setting the idle speed correctly on the throttle body.
It was then I realised I'd knocked one of the vacuum hoses loose when removing the spark plugs
(at least I now know why there was some hesitation).The Gunsons Gas Tester was pretty straight-forward to use, and I got it adjusted to the 2.00% it wanted in air. The engine was nice and warm, and I had some perfectly sized hose to connect the gas tester to the analysis port that Porsche kindly provided in the engine bay (you must test here if you have a catalytic convertor fitted). Don't forget to disconnect the lambda sensor if you have one.
Before I started the adjustments it was showing around 0.2% CO (a little bit lean). After a few attempts adjusting the AFM (1/2 turn at a time) I got it bang on the 0.6% required as per the workshop manual.
I then disabled the idle control valve using a paper clip to jumper the diagnosis plug as per the workshop manual. Immediately the revs climbed above 1000rpm, so it definitely needed adjusting. Got it down to the 840rpm required as per the workshop manual. With that done the lambda sensor was reconnected and the jumper removed from the diagnostic plug. The car idled much smoother!
Took it for another quick drive and all was good.
Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members
Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions
