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Under-bonnet charging point question

Lowtimer

New member
Chaps

You know the under-bonnet terminal to the electrical system, the one that is referred to in Paul's post #9 on this page:
http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=593481&mpage=1&key=hatch%2Crelease#

And illustrated by one of Oli's fine pictures, specifically this one...
09A20093A4804CF782D7B2E6CB7E913A.jpg


Well, here's the thing. My car is back from the body shop (hooray) but the hatch release motor has failed and I am awaiting a replacement (boo). Because the car is unlikely to be out much over the next couple of weeks I want to put the conditioner on it, but can't get can't get at the battery readily.

So, all of you smart folk who actually understand electricity, answer me this. Can I put the charger / conditioner on the car by connecting the (+) lead to the underbonnet terminal and the (-) lead to the exhaust or something else solid-looking, or will that cause all manner of terrible consequences? I know it's intended for emergency purposes but I would like to leave the conditioner on for a couple of weeks.
 
If it is just a conditioner I would say that solution would be fine. I would refrain from putting a proper charger on there though. The wires really aren't designed to take heavy current. A conditioner/trickle charger should be fine though. Another place you could use with a proper charger would be the main positive on the starter motor.
 
I would have thought it's fine to use. Although I dont know the grade of wire or fusing so if its completely flat and your using a 'fast' charger I would use the positive terminal on the starter motor. You can get cigarette lighter trickle chagers, and even 'jump' leads now. Although they aren't strictly jump leads as you need to leave them connected for 20 mins before starting. edit , Rob - you beat me to it!
 
Do 944's have the emergency hatch release behind the ventilation grill in the passenger side B pillar (the one you can see when the door is open) - 968's do? Also, can you not drop the rear seat backs and crawl through, pull the carpet down and get at the operating mechanism/cable to release the hatch - or for that matter crawl through and access the battery that way?You'll have to open the hatch to access and replace the failed motor!
 
Do 944's have the emergency hatch release behind the ventilation grill in the passenger side B pillar (the one you can see when the door is open)
No, 968 only. You can crawl through pretty easily, I did it this week with my flat battery. If I can manage it with my rheumatoid arthritis anyone can! [&:]
 
the hatch release motor has failed
I've crawled into the back of my S2 to release the boot, I pulled the carpet back and forced the latch across wih a screwdriver. Would be dificult if you didnt have the folding rear seats though!
 
If the car is going to be left under cover why not just connect it directly to the battery as mentioned earlier and take the conditioner wire out through the hatch seal or leave it in the boot and take the mains cable through same route. If the car is staying outside you could still connect direct to the battery and take the cable out via one of the drain holes either beneath the battery try or in the spare wheel well. At least then you know the connection is good and you won't burn out the hatch opening connection.
 
ORIGINAL: TTM Why wouldn't you want to plug it directly to the battery?
ORIGINAL: david924s If the car is going to be left under cover why not just connect it directly to the battery as mentioned earlier and take the conditioner wire out through the hatch seal or leave it in the boot and take the mains cable through same route. If the car is staying outside you could still connect direct to the battery and take the cable out via one of the drain holes either beneath the battery try or in the spare wheel well. At least then you know the connection is good and you won't burn out the hatch opening connection.
I think the op was stating he cant get to the battery easily as the motor has failed, so was asking if he could maintain the battery using the charging point.
 
Sorry, it just came back to my mind the battery on RHD cars was in the boot.
 
You dont need to force the latch Simply crawl in the back, pull back the carpet and tug on the cable
 
I can see now the boot release motor has failed so understand the predicament. In answer to the problem I have a boot release motor for an S2/turbo without the cable fixing so motor only if the OP wants it and can either pick it up or pay postage.
 
As Paul says it's not that simple crawling into the boot especially if like me you are on the big side. I tried yesterday but failed - and it was getting dark and raining so I put the car in the garage and called it quits for the day. Might try again when the rain stops. But ideally I'll do it *once*, when I have the new motor. I wonder the the latch or cable are a bit stiff; maybe that's been stressing the motor. I couldn't get an angle yesterday, in my brief attempt, to pull the cable hard enough to release the hatch. But as I say it was not the ideal conditions and I didn;t have time to think about it much. The car is well charged up having done a couple of hundred miles yesterday so won't be pulling anything extraordinary from the conditioner, I'm sure.
 
ORIGINAL: pauljmcnulty
Simply crawl in the back, pull back the carpet and tug on the cable
Edit to remove the word "simply"! [:D][:D][:D]
Ok, true [;)] Grease yer *rse and hips first so they dont snag on the door seals and ensure SWMBO is handy to call the paramedics when your back goes or the seats collapse [:eek:]
 
David - thanks for that offer, and hold the thought. I may already have one on the way, but the Christmas post makes it all a bit theoretical at the moment.
 
I read (in the handbook I think) that fast charging the battery in situ destroys the alternator. Is that true? David
ORIGINAL: nick9one1 I would have thought it's fine to use. Although I dont know the grade of wire or fusing so if its completely flat and your using a 'fast' charger I would use the positive terminal on the starter motor. You can get cigarette lighter trickle chagers, and even 'jump' leads now. Although they aren't strictly jump leads as you need to leave them connected for 20 mins before starting. edit , Rob - you beat me to it!
 
I read (in the handbook I think) that fast charging the battery in situ destroys the alternator. Is that true? David
I hope not! With the numerous charges my car had with it's intermittent drain problem last year (probably every night for a fortnight or more), and the couple of charges it's had since the fan relay packed up, I'm going to be due an alternator to add to my woes....[&o]
 
Just checked the Driver's Manual: "Prior to charging with a quick-charger, disconnect the battery to prevent destruction of the alternator." Running the engine with the battery disconnected has the same effect apparently. Must be a risk rather than a guarantee [&:]
 

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