Seriously rusty rear quarter

[peanut]

nice bit of fabrication Rob ...hows you welding technique on thin panels []

Not trying to teach my GM to suck eggs or anything but if its any help to anyone reading this and contemplating welding body panels I have found the best technique for limiting panel distortion due to heat buildup is to do a series of small isolated spot welds about 2" apart along the join to tack the panels together then let the panel cool . I usually use a towel drenched in cold water to constantly keep the panels cool as I go .

then I fill in the gaps one at a time cooling the panel as I go with the towel and always welding on a different part of the panel from the previous weld.

Its rarely done these days but in the past panel beaters would frequently braze panels together which gives an excellent joint on non structural panels and even use lead to wipe joints and form shapes like the side lights on Mkll Jags . Both of these techiques reduced the amount of filla needed and limited subsequent oxidation .

 

[zcacogp]

Those are very trad. techniques now Nick, particularly lead-loading. The number of people who know how to do that sort of thing must be tiny. Quite agree though - it's the proper way to do body repairs.

(I do recall reading a buyers guide on the amphicar a while ago, and that stipulated most firmly that you shouldn't buy any amphicar that had had filler used in any repair; lead-loaded repairs were the only acceptable way of doing it as filler became waterlogged and dropped out after a while!)


Oli.

 

[peanut]

you try finding some lead now Oli [&o] you probably have to sign for it !



45 years ago when I started work, I used to wipe lead manifolds sometimes 8-10 joints per foot for the beer supply pipes from the cellars of Watney Mann pubs in London .

Kids t'day don't know thar born........ i say kids t'day .......[]

 

[zcacogp]

Watney Mann, eh? That's going back a bit. You do realise you are simply restating your qualifications to be a "Grumpy old fart"! []

(Since the Ram Brewery closed, Fullers is now the only brewer who truly still brews in London. Ignoring all the modern trendy micro-breweries, of course. Names like "Watney Mann", "Trumans", "Youngs" and whatnot are all consigned to history now.)


Oli.

 

[peanut]

we've lost a few down this way too , due to family feuds etc Eldridge Pope is one of them . The Son Canch is a good friend of mine just walked out on his inheritance so the Brewery shut when his Father died. What an ale that was

 

[robdimond]

Sorry to hear about Bedford... typical British weather! Here is another update to cheer you all up.

Covered in weld-through primer and clamped up:

First attempt at welding on a car... hmmm... at least nobody will see it. Still need to join some of the dots... not enough penetration but at least not holed through...

Not got the hang of plug welding against gravity either!

Had to make this repair piece for the inner arch from scratch, both the original and the donor too far gone:

View from inside... just welding, grinding and painting now:

I disconnected the ABS ECU and took the battery out (as per the workshop manual), so hopefully haven't killed any electrics. More welding practice needed...

 

[Monkeythree]

It's always worthwhile having a bit of play with some offcuts of the same thickness so you can get your wire speed and current spot on before you turn it on the car. You can always go over any shitty bits with the current cranked up a bit and at the end of the day, the angle grinder is your friend! []
M3

 

[Hairyarse]

Great work Rob. It's a pig to weld upside down and like you say you're not blowing holes in it so that's cool. One tip I was once given, if it's out of site and smooth enough, don't grind the welds off as it can make them weaker. Don't know by how much but worth knowing!

 

[zcacogp]

I'll second that comment about welding upside down being difficult. Even worse when you get a blob of hot weld metal in your ear, which makes you jump, and you then bang your head hard on the underneath of the car ... (and that wasn't even my own car!)


Oli.

 

[Monkeythree]

Hotrocks!

 

[robdimond]

I hope more thrilling updates in this series will keep people coming back!

Repair panels tacked in place:

View from the other side:

Hopefully more progress tomorrow! (that was the cliffhanger)

 

[Hairyarse]

Tidy work Rob []

 

[Frenchy]

Keep them coming, looking good, well done that man !

 

[Diver944]

Looking really good Rob and once it's finished will all be hidden by a good thick coat of underseal. Impressive stuff

 

[Catamax944]

Looks great . I suggest using original wurth underseal

 

[robdimond]

Thanks for the comments. It's turned into a bit of a slog so it's really keeping me going! Would have been easier to just buy one without rust as has been said time and time again!

Catalin: wasn't sure what the original stonechip was... I've already bought this stuff as my local motor factors had it:

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_188343_langId_-1_categoryId_165594#tab3

Close enough? It's almost entirely hidden under the rear valance anyway...

I've also got a big tin of brush-on seam sealer so I can seal up all the seams and the new weld.

Where is the best place to get some guards red top coat? I don't need a perfect match because again it's almost all hidden.

 

[Hairyarse]

Hi Rob

When I bought a touch-up pot for my guards red square dash, I got it from these guys - http://auto-paint.co.uk/carpaint/

The match was spot on.

Cheers
Andy

 

[colin944]

Rob Looks like you are doing excellent work mate, You were talking about the neatness of your welds, don't worry worry about how neat they are cause you can buff them down just concentrate on making the welds nice and strong. Keep up the good work.

 

[robdimond]

Thankyou all for the encouraging words. Update!

I ran out of patience, couldn't miss another day of this weather so I quickly got to the primer stage, put the trim back on and drove it!

Seam welded the patches:

Welded up, ground down, primer and lots and lots of gloopy seam sealer:

What was left of the donor piece:

Squirted loads of bilt hamber dynax into the well, so hopefully should be rust free for a while. The brush on seam sealer is lovely stuff, filled up all of the gaps, should keep the water out.

Just needs a smidge of filler, stonechip and topcoat and it's finished! Won't drive it in the wet until then.

 

[Hairyarse]

I bet you're pleased to get passed the worst of it now, soon be all shiny and red again! []