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S2 Engine Problem... Sounds serious, anyone know of an engine for sale?

Found it. No idea whether it is still for sale, but as you can see, he was trying for ages to sell it (on TIPEC as well):

http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/139455/944-3-16v-1050-slough
 
Ive seen threads on forums where a alusil engine has been rebored and recoated ,or resleaved in steel and the rest rebuilt ,if yours has serious damage which it may well do from that noise then thats not going to be possible ,but isnt it worth just taking off the head and having a look at the bores and crank ,everything else is replaceable secondhand really but the block would be expensive to rebore and the cranks are expensive ,a few weeks ago there was an s2 engine completely in bits for sale ,I was tempted ! my engines not perfect ,in fact the whole car its self is a project ,but nows the time to repair them as theyre still being scrapped because of corrosion ,accidents ,being a cat c or d ,or niggly repairs that are costly ,eventually the parts will dry up because people will start saving them instead as the values are rising the more the numbers decrease

there was a whole working s2 engine on ebay a few weeks ago ,it was 500quid ,I know a place in coppul near wigan has a red s2 theyre breaking at the moment
as ive considered buying there gearbox ,on the advert it says you can come and test the gearbox as the engines ok ,that means they'll be selling the engine soon
the gearbox is on ebay at the moment its on at 292quid
 
Thanks all,

Just collected another engine from Jon... a few bits to swap over, and then I can take a look at my old engine at my leisure (which probably means it will join the other two engine I have waiting for me to pull the head off and see what is wrong with them... but this one is more interesting!)... Guess what I'll be doing the weekend... that's right, MOTing the cab![&:]
 
Absolutely - a database of videos/sound recordings of various noises, and photos of the mechanical mayhem which caused them would be a very useful thing! Unfortunately at the moment getting the Engine back in the car is the priority, but at least the Turbo Cab passed its MOT without drama[:)]
 
So Tref - having seen your post on the mileage thread......

What was the final diagnosis?
 

ORIGINAL: edh

So Tref - having seen your post on the mileage thread......

What was the final diagnosis?
Click to expand...

How do you make the font on this really really small? distributor cap[:eek:]
 
You know, I have just looked back through and see you suggested that - I must admit that at the time, I dismissed it as "Nah, that would never make that much racket"... So I owe you an apology sir (even if you didn't know about it until now!), and please feel free to say "Nah, nah, na-na, nah very loudly! Yep, it wasn't until I fired up the new engine, and it made exactly the same sound, and the only parts swapped over were the cam cover (which then became my first suspect), belt cover top half, and distributor cap. After a short while the noise had quietened down, but nevertheless I looked at the cam-cover, and then the distributor cap where I found a chunk taken out of one post, and metal filings... so I concluded this must have been the cause. It has been quiet for about 3k miles since (on the new engine). Don't ask me why it suddenly started making the noise, I am sure it didn't when the distributor cap was first fitted - maybe it cracked and shifted, as it was tight when fitted, but I couldn't see any obvious sign - I was just happy to have an explanation. So there you go... saving £10 on a distributor cap cost me a £1k engine I didn't need. that said, the new engine is a lot quieter, and I am more inclined to get on with the LPG conversion with a fresh engine, but nevertheless, I do have this nagging desire to run my old engine and see exactly what miles it will do! One more key component to the evil project in the garage;-)
 
You mean as in
ORIGINAL: 924nutter

That's 8 knocks per second using the you tube time base so I if that is a single piston hitting a bent valve the idle speed would be 480 rpm, (8x60) It is regular but as the number of cylinders involved goes up the idle speed would have to go down. e.g. 2 cylinders give two knocks per rev instead of one so to get the same 8 herz your engine would only just be above the 200 rpm rotational speed threshold of the dme, so that rules out all four as well because it just wouldn't be ble to run, but in any case I would expect an engine firng on three to make better than 650 rpm. If the engine is idling normaly and it cetainly doesn't appear to be rocking about from side to side, so it's sounding like it's something that operates at camshaft speed. Balance shafts are out because the whizz round at twice engine speed.

You haven't got a bent valve because you say it has acceptable compression and presumably good oil pressure. Is it possible that you have a sticking valve which isn't fully closing until the piston gives it a whack? A sticking valve will cause a bit of a misfire, and if it is the exhaust valve you would still show good compression figures because once the piston had pushed it shut it remains that way until after the compression stroke.Have you checked that the securing screw for the rotor arm has not worked it's way out and is hitting something at one particular point on its way round, or is it not the same as the eight valve?
Has one of the many tappets failed to pump itself up due to perished seals or blocked oilway
Has the timing chain jumped a tooth? There again again if it had you would have at least four bent valves and poor compression.
Not definitive answers Trefor but more a case of what it isn't, which may be of some help.
Click to expand...
 
Yes but I said it first.....[:)]

For clarification the volvo cap was on the s2 - they are supposed to be compatible. (I tried 3 and they all made the same noise)

Seriously though that is a bit gutting for you tref - I guess you have a fresher engine now though. Mine is on 234k and only used for trackdays now. It won't do many miles, but they will be tough on the engine. I am intrigued to see how long it will last
 
This wasn't a Volvo cap - it was sold as a 944 one. The Rotor Arm likewise, but it was a cheap aftermarket part... To be honest, I listen to what people say, but covering high mileages I have the opportunity to try stuff out - I was expecting it to wear out early or something like that... but only by trying this stuff do you really find out if it is any good! I have, until now, always used Bosch stuff, generally from Bert Gear... and guess where I will be going next time for a Distributor Cap and Rotor arm!
It is like ball joints... I will try a reconditioned one - if it lasts for 30k miles, most people will be happy, for me, I can't afford to be changing the wishbones every year, so it will probably be worth my while paying £500 for a pair of genuine ones...
Trouble is, if you are prepared to go out on a limb and try stuff, every now and again you are going to fall down.
 
Sorry I should clarify... it was sold to me as a 944 cap... it may well have been a Volvo cap unscrupulously sold to me as a 944 cap!
 
I had this issue a while ago. It didn't sound like your car though!:

http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=522446&mpage=1&key=&#522446
 
That's very interesting Chas - must be the same problem I had. I tried 2 rotor arms & they were both the same. Looking at the old cap (black) I put back, the brass terminals were much thinner than the new (orange) ones I tried. I think I have 3 of the orange ones sitting in my garage as GSF kept sending me more when I told them they weren't working.

At the time i spoke to PH sportscars about it - they had never seen the problem, but now there's 3 of us who have had it..
 
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