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nickson motorsport 944 turbo track car build

im afraid for the minute i will be using the ducts and the std inlet system. once i decide to start tuning the engine the airbox will be available, but i cant garentee it will be in the near future as i dont imagine i will touch the engine until the trackday season is over and i decide i want some more power!
 
small update from a huge amount of work!

been spending a few hours each eve removing the sound matting from the floor, and then removing the huge amounts of seam sealer used, so the interior can be seam welded. this is the near finished result on the passenger side, the result of a lot of heating, scraping, wire brushing, nitromoors, and thinners, and a whole load of elbow grease. literally one of the worst jobs in the world!

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now to start with the drivers side! ready for cage installation, seat rails, seam welding, then paint!
 

ORIGINAL: nicksonmsport

im afraid for the minute i will be using the ducts and the std inlet system. once i decide to start tuning the engine the airbox will be available, but i cant garentee it will be in the near future as i dont imagine i will touch the engine until the trackday season is over and i decide i want some more power!
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Fair enough. Those ducts arent as good as PU mounted (lamp replacements) ones, but theyre OEM and more subtle for a road car.
 
yeah im going to have a look at them and see if there is a better option in the future, but for the min its likely i will use these to save build time. this first stage of the build is to get the car on track and working. during the winter i will further develop the car and thats when the details will come

 
Hi Nick, I found that with a small butane flame I was able to heat and strip 1/2 a side of the car of the tar in about 1 hour it pretty much just peals off the car in one lump. Just required a quick wipe with petrol to finish the job and remove the remaining glue. Unsure on the seam sealer, that sounds like harder work.
 
hi starch, your right, removing the sound mat is not to bad, and the remnants can be wiped away with thinners. its the seam sealer thats the pig of a job! its much much tougher, and takes a long time to get rid of! its not a nice job. but it needs to be done!
 
Looking on the bright side of things all the hard work will be worth it, a 944T fully striped becomes a 1000kg car. Add 300-400bhp and it's unlikely you'll have much lapping faster except full blown race cars.

Pete
 
Ive seen seam welding performed with the sealer still in. There seems to be a knack to getting the adjoining metal hot enough to force it out...
 

ORIGINAL: nicksonmsport

hi starch, your right, removing the sound mat is not to bad, and the remnants can be wiped away with thinners. its the seam sealer thats the pig of a job! its much much tougher, and takes a long time to get rid of! its not a nice job. but it needs to be done!
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Worth it too, I took over 8kg`s off my Golf. If done well and painted properly it looks good - so good I am asked if I`d fitted a new floor pan!!!

When I am feeling brave I`ve got to strip it and do the underside and inner wings etc [:eek:] - I`ll bet thats another 10kg of cr*p so a worthwhile exercise [:)]

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Loving the build so far Nick, it's going to be a real missile when it's finished and you'll have a blast on track [:)]

Keep up the good work
 
hilux your right its heavy stuff! plus it should be beneficial for shell stiffness once the interior seams have been stitch welded, with a weld in cage aswell it should really make the chassis nice and tight. plus it does look smart once its all painted

not had a chance to do anything to the car today, been sorting through s2 parts ready to put on ebay to fund more turbo bits!
 
quick question, best place to buy 968 castor mounts and price! also after an m030 front bar do porsche have them in stock yet and whats the new improved (increased!) price?
many thanks
nick
 
The M030 bar is available again but I heard its no longer hollow and is now stamped H&R. Personally I wouldn't bother, its only slightly stiffer than the 26.8mm one that was stock on my S2 yet costs a small fortune. Better to go the whole hog and fit a set of weltmeister bars or similar unless racing with PCGB.

I tend to buy all my Porsche factory parts from Exeter OPC because I have done for years now and they often have managed to get deals on things like calipers and ARB packages. I bought a set of castor mounts recently via EMC though as part of the pre season work on the car, those mounts are pretty much a wear item and don't seem to last more than 2 seasons on a track car. ISTR £70 each.
 
thats a shame its no longer a hollow bar as a solid bar will be considerably heavier! im running a 21mm adjustable turbo cup rear arb and slightly concerned that with the std s2 rollbar it may be a bit oversteery with a std front and stiffer rear. i know the std 944 tends to understeer a bit, so it may end up dialing the understeer out the car and work quite well. but if the rear is set to full soft and its still oversteering then i will have to do something. i may experiment with the std bar and customise it to run adjustable holes so it can be made stiffer just by reducing the lever action on the bar. if that doesnt work thens the time to upgrade.

i saw porschapart were selling new castor mounts for £52 each on ebay.

 
Id keep Porkchop in reserve, rather than playing them in my first team, if I were you...

One alternative supplier is Hartech but Id check with your local OPC and with Exeter too, as you may find that the genuine parts can be bought here for less.


Simon

 
good shout with hartech, £35 plus vat each which comes to £84 the pair all in. will check with guildford opc as well just for reference.
 
Call Exeter too and mention the forum. The parts staff there are 944-friendly and will frequently come up with very good prices and post for free.

With regards to the front ARB: if the original style is NLA then Id collect an assortment of pretty much worthless OEM fronts and have one or two of each case hardened. You cant guarantee to get an ideal rate, but youve a reasonable chance and the cost will be minimal. I think that this was originally a 1970s touring car trick, where they wanted more roll stiffness but they couldnt replace the OEM bar with a thicker/stiffer part...
 
Heard that one before, great trick. KLA make stiffener brackets for the front mounting but I have no idea how effective that mod is. A great weight saving trick often overlooked is to drill the hell out of the torque tube. The thing is very very heavy so I am sure it can save an enormous amount of weight.
 
The strengtheners with the 30mm front ARB are a big no no in my experience/opinion.
 
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