New Turbo owner - few niggles
- Thread starter Ollie86
- Start date
Diver944
Active member
The OEM nuts are incredibly light alloy and as such after 15 years they start to get a bit corroded and really should be replaced.
Porsche were so anal about wheel balance that you will find one of your heel studs has a red tip, this is where the locking nut is supposed to go to counterbalance the extra weight [
]
Lovely looking car - welcome on board []
Porsche were so anal about wheel balance that you will find one of your heel studs has a red tip, this is where the locking nut is supposed to go to counterbalance the extra weight [
]Lovely looking car - welcome on board [
]
944Scott
New member
ORIGINAL: Diver944
The OEM nuts are incredibly light alloy and as such after 15 years they start to get a bit corroded and really should be replaced.
Porsche were so anal about wheel balance that you will find one of your heel studs has a red tip, this is where the locking nut is supposed to go to counterbalance the extra weight [
Lovely looking car - welcome on board [
Well you learn something new every day, I will check mine and swap them round accordingly[
]Veerzigzag
New member
As the torque setting for these is quite high, recommendation is to make sure you use a long socket that extends the full length of the nut.
ORIGINAL: Diver944
The OEM nuts are incredibly light alloy and as such after 15 years they start to get a bit corroded and really should be replaced.
Porsche were so anal about wheel balance that you will find one of your heel studs has a red tip, this is where the locking nut is supposed to go to counterbalance the extra weight [
Lovely looking car - welcome on board [
I thought the red stud was for the valve, the later type wheel nuts (keyed castellations rather than a key) weigh the same as the standard wheel nuts.
The different wheel designs put the valve in different places though, some put it next a stud and some opposite.
I put the valve opposite or next to the red mark depending on the style and haven't noticed any difference. I point the centre cap at the valve and have the locking nut on the same axis.
Tony
Gents,
A couple more questions if I may please. I'm searching for answers as best I may, but my Internet connection is patchy at best at home currently so I'm doing this on my mobile.
Once hot, on idle my oil pressure needle flickers up & down around 2.5 bar. Is this acceptable?
After stretching it legs a couple of times for 45 minutes or so and reducing to crawling speed, I could smelll burning oil in the cabin for a few moments. My first thoughts were a leaky rocker cover dripping oil onto the exhaust manifold, but on inspection it's as dry as can be. Any thoughts as to the cause of this?
Handling - it's pretty poor if I'm honest. It's not terribly pointy nor responsive. How well should these cars handle as standard in good order? I'm assuming my dampers are shot and springs tired at best. The car is polybushed and has just had a 4 wheel alignment.
I have the car booked into a Porsche specialist relatively local to me, Specialist Vehicle Preperations in Droitwich Spa. Does anyone have any experience of this company?
Thanks a lot for any advice. I hope questions from me will tail off very shortly.
A couple more questions if I may please. I'm searching for answers as best I may, but my Internet connection is patchy at best at home currently so I'm doing this on my mobile.
Once hot, on idle my oil pressure needle flickers up & down around 2.5 bar. Is this acceptable?
After stretching it legs a couple of times for 45 minutes or so and reducing to crawling speed, I could smelll burning oil in the cabin for a few moments. My first thoughts were a leaky rocker cover dripping oil onto the exhaust manifold, but on inspection it's as dry as can be. Any thoughts as to the cause of this?
Handling - it's pretty poor if I'm honest. It's not terribly pointy nor responsive. How well should these cars handle as standard in good order? I'm assuming my dampers are shot and springs tired at best. The car is polybushed and has just had a 4 wheel alignment.
I have the car booked into a Porsche specialist relatively local to me, Specialist Vehicle Preperations in Droitwich Spa. Does anyone have any experience of this company?
Thanks a lot for any advice. I hope questions from me will tail off very shortly.
TTM
Well-known member
The pressure gauge flickering suggests a dirty ground from the engine harness.
2.5 bar at tick over is within the service manual recommendation, but oil grade should make a good difference - what oil are you using?
Smell of burnt oil could be a lose connection from the vacuum line on the top of the AOS ("air oil separator", the plastic body with the oil filler ck) or perhaps leaky turbine seals.
Handling should not be approximate, especially after a proper alignment. In particular, the steering should always be nicely, lightly responsive and precise, especialy on std wheel and tyre sizes. It sounds like the shocks are past their best - can you push the front and the back of the car down with your hands without much effort, as if the suspension was wobbly? If yes then it's very llkely the dampers are worn out.
2.5 bar at tick over is within the service manual recommendation, but oil grade should make a good difference - what oil are you using?
Smell of burnt oil could be a lose connection from the vacuum line on the top of the AOS ("air oil separator", the plastic body with the oil filler ck) or perhaps leaky turbine seals.
Handling should not be approximate, especially after a proper alignment. In particular, the steering should always be nicely, lightly responsive and precise, especialy on std wheel and tyre sizes. It sounds like the shocks are past their best - can you push the front and the back of the car down with your hands without much effort, as if the suspension was wobbly? If yes then it's very llkely the dampers are worn out.
Hairyarse
New member
My oil pressure guage does the same. I'm trying out one suggestion of replacing the O-ring around the pressure sender/bolt type thing on the side of the engine (sorry for crap description!)
Ref the handling, get a full laser geometry check done. Checks should be free, if it's far out getting it sorted will make the world of difference.
Ref the handling, get a full laser geometry check done. Checks should be free, if it's far out getting it sorted will make the world of difference.
edh
New member
Agree that shocks need to be looked at - but they aren't very "pointy" cars anyway. They will also drive better on the lighter original wheels (I bet that 17" Cup 1 reps weigh a ton!) The cars are quite sensitive to tyre pressures - I usually aim for low 30's.
The main pleasure in a 944 is the steering, plus the way that the car is very "mechanical" as you feel the result of your inputs very clearly, and the nicely weighted controls. It's nothing like driving a modern car in any of those respects. It should feel precise.
The main pleasure in a 944 is the steering, plus the way that the car is very "mechanical" as you feel the result of your inputs very clearly, and the nicely weighted controls. It's nothing like driving a modern car in any of those respects. It should feel precise.
Thanks very much for the replies chaps.
I'll be looking at the dampers this week in that case. They do feel like cars I've had previously where they're in need of replacement. It certainly wouldn't be surprising given I'm almost certain they are the original items.
I did take it out for a drive this afternoon down some more remote country roads and seem to be bonding with it more. It's surprisingly hard to drive fast, I've come from a long line of M Power BMW's which are much easier to "dial" into quickly.
I will get some pictures up of it soon also, is there a members photo's area on here? I need to wash it first however, I've been to busy driving it so far! []
EDIT - RE the cups, I've no doubt it'd handle better on the original wheels, but I do like the look of the current ones. I'm not sure they are reps even, whilst checking the brakes I noticed a part number, probably should have made a note of this in order to check.
I'll be looking at the dampers this week in that case. They do feel like cars I've had previously where they're in need of replacement. It certainly wouldn't be surprising given I'm almost certain they are the original items.
I did take it out for a drive this afternoon down some more remote country roads and seem to be bonding with it more. It's surprisingly hard to drive fast, I've come from a long line of M Power BMW's which are much easier to "dial" into quickly.
I will get some pictures up of it soon also, is there a members photo's area on here? I need to wash it first however, I've been to busy driving it so far! [
]EDIT - RE the cups, I've no doubt it'd handle better on the original wheels, but I do like the look of the current ones. I'm not sure they are reps even, whilst checking the brakes I noticed a part number, probably should have made a note of this in order to check.
The original wheel nuts weigh 18 grammes a piece as do the castelled locking nuts, buy a "soft" socket with a nylon insert to stop from rounding them off, do not let any tyre monkeys or mechanics near them with a windy gun.
You need to use the gearbox and learn when boost is about to come on to get the best out of the car, they can absolutely fly.
the standard 220 turbo suspension is quite soft, if it is original then a refresh would do it the world of good, contact the previous owner and get the Turbo Teledials off him and store them, i also like the Cup 1 wheels but these cars are now becoming sought after and original wheels are a great thing to have.
As said gearchanges can be a bit stiff and notchy when cold but soon get slick when warmed up, linkage bushes renewed again will make a world of difference.
Enjoy.
You need to use the gearbox and learn when boost is about to come on to get the best out of the car, they can absolutely fly.
the standard 220 turbo suspension is quite soft, if it is original then a refresh would do it the world of good, contact the previous owner and get the Turbo Teledials off him and store them, i also like the Cup 1 wheels but these cars are now becoming sought after and original wheels are a great thing to have.
As said gearchanges can be a bit stiff and notchy when cold but soon get slick when warmed up, linkage bushes renewed again will make a world of difference.
Enjoy.
Crumbs. Poor handling after an alignment means something is amiss. 944's are hugely balanced on account of the transmission layout, and have a fairly stiff chassis. This means that they can hide very worn dampers quite well. Are you sure the alignment is right? (Do you have the figures it was set to available?) Failing that, it's certainly new damper time; the handling should be precise and very, very confidence-inspiring (particularly when pushing on.)
It should certainly feel very different on the road to an M-sport BMW, whose handling characteristics are totally different (and significantly inferior).
Oli.
It should certainly feel very different on the road to an M-sport BMW, whose handling characteristics are totally different (and significantly inferior).
Oli.
It just feels a little slack.
Sadly, I don't have the report from the 4WA. The cars now gone into SVP in Droitwich for an all round appraisal on the mechanicals, I've specifically asked them to take a look at the dampers.
Don't get me wrong, it's not bad, but it's not a patch on my previous M3. I'm hoping several tired parts will be identified and earmarked for replacement. Precise and confidence inspiring are not words I would use to describe it currently! But I'm hopeful this will change soon.
Sadly, I don't have the report from the 4WA. The cars now gone into SVP in Droitwich for an all round appraisal on the mechanicals, I've specifically asked them to take a look at the dampers.
Don't get me wrong, it's not bad, but it's not a patch on my previous M3. I'm hoping several tired parts will be identified and earmarked for replacement. Precise and confidence inspiring are not words I would use to describe it currently! But I'm hopeful this will change soon.
edh
New member
I don't believe there's any such thing? Might be worth checking part numbers (on Porsche PET)
All ABS cars have the same wishbone don't they? with pre ABS cars having a different wishbone (which could be replaced by the 924 steel one?)
Hartech Wishbones
Is your car an early offset Pre-ABS car?
All ABS cars have the same wishbone don't they? with pre ABS cars having a different wishbone (which could be replaced by the 924 steel one?)
Hartech Wishbones
Is your car an early offset Pre-ABS car?
George Elliott
New member
I'm going to say yes it is Ed.
Oliver, when you mentioned finding the 951 not vey pointy, I wondered compared to what? but you cleared that up with the M car background. Had you said a 1996 Discovery I would have been worried. An M car is pointy by design, but I would call them tail happy (E30,36 or 46).
The 951 is well summed up by edh - its mechanical, balanced, and back in the day a firmly damped set-up.
My advice is get the proper rims onto it (ask to test run them if you are in doubt) get the tyre pressures right, and allow 1000 miles to complete your "bonding". I am assuming the tracking is within original spec tolerances.
I would hope you would then come to appreciate the balance, traction, robust build, steering feel, mid-range torque of the old girl. You have bought a lovely example, I saw it for sale (but I have too many already).
It may be useful, IF you must get specialist advise on the car, try some-one like Pro-max. They know the model inside out.
Wrong wishbones.....[8|].....never say never, but I'd be amazed
Good luck.
George
944t
Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members
Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions
