Keeping Busy during Lockdown, Engine & Exhaust work

[Gazza3501]

Part 1
Like many, I’m not working during this current lockdown phase so I thought I would use my time to rectify a couple of issues with my Boxster and share the info & photos with like-minded folk.

I have a Tiptronic 2.7L Boxster registered in December 2006 with the usual weep under the gearbox and severely corroded exhaust nuts/bolts and broken clamps. I also have a MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) illuminated on the dash which my Durametric tells me is an exhaust o2 (Lambda) sensor issue. I have not been able to remove said sensors as they are seized tight. I decided to whip the engine & transmission out (as you do) and sort the issues.

Many people say you should leave the exhaust manifold bolts well alone—and they are correct!! They are poor quality and often snap. If this happens you can find yourself in a whole world of sh*te! I did this very same job on my last car, a 997C2S and luckily all bolts came out ok and I installed new gaskets and bolts just for peace of mind. On this Boxster I needed to remove the entire exhaust but in two halves --left & right. After cutting the bracket that joins the two halves I proceeded to snap 5 manifold mounting bolts on one side and luckily only one on the other. I tried different methods including heat to no avail. It just goes to show how different patterns of use and storage conditions can affect components. My 997 being eighteen months or so older but similar (mid 50k) mileage was in much better condition with no corrosion anywhere.

I thought 911’s were awkward to work on but the Boxster is in a different league. I purchased my first Porsche in 2010 and I immediately knew I would have to have a means of comfortably accessing the underside of the car so I invested in a portable car lift (pictured) called
EZ Carlift. It raises the car just over two feet which is great for most types of work especially dropping an engine. I have used this lift on everything from my sons old MX5 to a Mondeo estate. If you do a lot of your own mechanicing as I do then I highly recommend a lift like this they are so much better than axle stands (although considerably more expensive of course) especially when you get to a certain age and don't want to struggle.

Accessing the engine:

One reason for engine removal:

another reason:

I will post more info & pics as things progress and when time permits

 

[DaveIrwin]

Oh Gazza, I feel your pain. I've just finished a similar job on my 987.1 though I didn't take the engine out. Coronavirus lock down has a lot to answer for. I started with a yearly oil & filter and corroded Exh Manifold to Cat nuts but it morphed into Rear main and IMS seals, clutch, flywheel, gear change cables, Cruise control install and painting the centre console in exterior colour (Atlas Grey Metallic). Some scary and funny moments along the way, many snapped bolts broken drills, special tools created and lots learned. Hours spent staring at it building up courage to take the next step and some eureka moments during the night when a solution came to me. All back together but I have one last job tomorrow which is to try and remove or drill out a broken manifold bolt without taking off the manifold. I stupidly tried to remove when my patience was running thin drilling out corroded Manifold/Cat studs. Snapped the first one with very little effort and thought better of it.

I love the Car Lift, I'm using 35 year old axle stands which I do worry about. Might have to look at that.
I assume you drilled and retapped your broken manifold bolts out?

I'll follow your progress with interest.

Best regards
Dave Irwin

 

[chrishak]

Great post, looking forward to following your progress

 

[Gazza3501]

After a number of hours draining fluids, disconnecting suspension, drive shafts, a multitude of cables, seized pipe clips, PAS, fuel and cooling system couplings I lowered the engine/transmission unit as one.

Disconnecting PAS lines (safety clip) Plethora of coolant pipes

Plethora of coolant pipes

(Above)These are the front to rear coolant pipes with severely corroded couplings, a common issue

Supporting the exhaust --a substantial weight
……...and below, a couple of snapped manifold bolts

Below: lowering the engine/transmission

Not a pretty sight, well weathered with rusty components and light corosion

1^st job now is to separate the engine from transmission, mount it on my engine stand and then deal with the pesky exhaust bolts.
More to follow....

 

[Gazza3501]

Hi Dave
I just uploaded another instalment.

Yes I did drill some bolts. I will post some info about the exhaust bolts shortly. Easier for me with the engine on a stand, I wouldn't want to do it upside down. You have the manifold as a guide but the main thing is to keep cooling the drill bits as you drill. I used cobalt drill bits.

I will upload more info tomorrow.

 

[Boxstercol]

Wow!


Fair play to you, following with interest....

 

[Gazza3501]

So on with the next instalment:
I had to remove the starter in order to access the flexplate bolts (flywheel on a manual G/box). Starter removal is a very awkward job with the engine in situ but then, every job regarding engine work is challenging on these mid-engine cars.

Here you can see an improvised locking tool (Torx key) inserted in top of bell-housing to stop the torque converter (TC) falling out when I separate the two units

Here we have the TC (marvellous invention) & Flexplate, stretch Bolts will need renewing.

Separated engine here on stand inverted ready for exhaust bolt removal

….Oh and surprise, surprise, its the IMS seal leaking not the RMS.

Below you can see the cleaned-up IMS cover in position and removed (with seal)

For interest purposes (below) here's a view you don't normally see. Photos taken from the empty engine cavity.

Fan unit and coolant reservior
Air Box location ----in situ

...and here its removed...

Quite a large unit
Below...large (final iteration) non-removable IMS bearing

Below--When you remove these engines, one of the challenges is to remove the AC unit and unclip the associated pipes so it can be positioned in the cabin thus avoiding a recharge after replacing the engine.

Ok, so onto the exhaust bolts......

 

[John H]

Ah the exhaust bolts, such shameless penny pinching by Porsche. The ones on my Cayman had disintegrated to almost nothing.

 

[Gazza3501]

Exhaust removed

Bolts/nuts almost disintegrated

I think the O2 sensors had been over-tightened prior to seizing in place. I've had to release tight O2 sensors before but these took the prize for tightest. A blow torch works wonders. (Below)

The flanges are fitted with splined studs and have to be hammered out. Once again, without heat there is a high chance of damaging the flange.

Finally sorted.....

and so onto the cylinder head/manifold bolts...or rather, the remains. I had 6 broken bolts in total and this was a job I was not looking forward to. This picture shows the left bank where five of the bolts snapped....

each bolt stub was protruding 5 or 6mm so I managed to weld nuts on the ends and remove three successfully but the remaining three were unbelievably tight.

My welded nut!
As stated above three were impossibly tight and just would not budge breaking the weld each time despite multiple attempts. I now had to bite-the-bullet and spend a considerable sum on a jig to allow me to drill out the three remaining bolt stubs. It’s a very time consuming affair drilling out hardened bolts but with good drill bits, correct technique and cooling it can be done. It’s important not to drill in too far as there is a risk of entering the water jacket which will ruin the cylinder head. I breathed a sigh of relief when this was completed. The only other choice would have been cylinder head removal and cart it off to an engineer or Porsche workshop at huge expense. After accurately drilling the holes I cleaned the thread with a tap provided in the kit. Its probably possible to use the exhaust manifold as a jig but accuracy is compromised this way. The jig makes it possible to use and not lose the original thread.
Below: cylinder head face cleaned and ready to mount the jig

Jig in position...

The jig was not cheap but certainly less than having to get a third party to repair it.

Its a beautiful bit of kit.

These (below) are stainless replicas of the originals I purchased these stainless alternatives from a
They're available from a Porsche Indy at around £7.50 each! Porsche parts supplier for around £1.25 each

I am currently awaiting a parts delivery (bearing cover seal, bearing support shaft seal, O-ring and differential/drive shaft seal etc). There is a "while-your-in-there rationale” that says I should replace numerable items whilst the engine is out and access is easy but one can spend a fortune on things that may not miss-behave for a long time. One such item is the water pump (below-bottom left)

I have checked this as best I can and like the IMS, it feels like new so I am reluctant to spend £150+ unnecessarily. I am however going to replace the air-oil separator (AOS) although it’s still ok as this is a pain of a job with engine in situ. I conducted a bore score check and all is ok although its not usually a problem on the smaller engines. I did a similar bore check when I had my 997C2S and as I was removing the camera the small attachment mirror plopped off the end inside the bore. After a moment of shear panic I retrieved it with a very small magnet on the end of a thin bendy wire—a very close call avoiding engine strip down.

While I wait I have rebuilt the starter. It sounded rather tired so I dismantled checked, cleaned & lubricated it. I tested it and it sounds like new again. Well worth the effort.

I purchased two sets of new brushes but both times there were subtle differences preventing me from using them so I re-installed the originals as they weren't worn much anyway. Below--debris build up in starter casing...

I forgot to insert a couple of photos regarding IMS cover removal. The camshafts have to be locked in place with engine at TDC. Below is a picture of an improvised crank lock:

and here I have made a couple of Camshaft locking tools. Easy to make, saving ££

In position......

After this is done the camchain tensioners are released and the IMS bearing cover (which is also a support) can be removed.

That's it, all up to date, I will post more info as and when parts arrive and I can resume

 

[911hillclimber]

You must work for Haynes Manuals!
brilliant thread and such good clear text and pictures.
please keep going!
Graham.

 

[Gazza3501]

Thanks Graham, very nice of you to say so.

 

[Motorhead]

Top marks for taking on all that work Gary, and very much looking forward to the next installment.

I've seen the manifold jig before - an excellent bit of kit, and something I'm sure you can resell for a good price if you choose not to keep it. Maybe you could offer your services (for a fee!) to local enthusiasts faced with the same problem as yourself?

BTW, what made you choose the EZ Carlift over say the QuickJack offering?

Jeff

 

[Gazza3501]

BTW, what made you choose the EZ Carlift over say the QuickJack offering?

Jeff

Hi Jeff
I purchased the car lift from America in 2010 when the company was just starting up. A DIY enthusiast developed it. There wasn't much available at the time for similar cost. I was given a demonstration locally by someone who had a prototype and I was amongst the first customers I believe. Great bit of kit allowing pretty much full access underneath.

Gary

 

[Motorhead]

Thanks Gary. I suppose one advantage of the EZ Carlift is that it's completely mechanical, whereas the QuickJack requires a battery and is hydraulically actuated and therefore more complex (more things to go wrong!).

I think the EZ Carlift has a slightly greater lift, which will always be a bonus, but both devices look great for improved under-car access.

Keep up the good work.

Jeff

 

[911hillclimber]

What is the 'flat' height of the lift please?
Can you drive your Boxster straight over it, shuffle into position and use it?

Just might get a permission to have one! (I'm getting too old now for these on-the-garage-floor antics).

 

[Motorhead]

Graham,

The stated operating height is from 6" to 26" and requires a 1/2" drill with a minimum of 7.5 amps and 1,000 rpm to reach the full height in about 110 secs.

You could have a look at the QuickJack too which is cheaper but has a slightly lower max operating height ~21", but I think you can buy blocks to increase the height slightly.

https://www.quickjacklift.co.uk/

Jeff

 

[Gazza3501]

What is the 'flat' height of the lift please?
Can you drive your Boxster straight over it, shuffle into position and use it?

Hi Graham
Details as Jeff said. You can slide it underneath into position or drive over it. You can find out all you need to know on the EZ carlift website. It is American though and I'm not sure if there are any representatives in U.K. so you might have to import it as I did. There are more alternatives these days though compared to back when i acquired mine.

Your not alone though, after a certain age one gets tired of struggling underneath cars.

Gary

 

[Motorhead]

It looks as though there's a UK EZ Carlift agent:

https://www.holden.co.uk/p/car_lift_e_z_mobile_for_home_and_professional_use

It retails at £1,620 incl. VAT, whereas for comparison the equivalent QuickJack is £1,335.

Both require additional equipment for operation: a powerful drill in the case of the EZ Carlift and a 12-volt power source for the QuickJack. Either way, they both look very handy pieces of kit even if you only use them to raise the car to remove the wheels and access the brakes, suspension and steering.

Jeff

 

[AndrewCS]

Thank you both … liking the castor option !



[h1] [/h1]

 

[corneg1]

Really interesting to read about your hard work - thank you for sharing the details! I know my header bolts are heavily corroded, so for sure I have to face a similar challenge at some point. Looking forward to reading about the rest of the work.