Keeping Busy during Lockdown, Engine & Exhaust work
- Thread starter Gazza3501
- Start date
Gazza3501
New member
I'm still awaiting my parts order although delivery is imminent apparently. There are other things in need of attention so while I wait I decided to remove the front suspension initially to install new bump stops and gaiters but as ever, it wasn't to be that simple. My existing suspension struts are looking tired:
Totally seized anti-roll bar bolts
....had to be cut:
Below: Once removed the struts need dissasembling to access the bump stop & gaiter. I had to cut the seized top nut off after a modicum heat failed to help. It still became hot enough to allow the centre of the top mount to fall out of the rubber bush. Initially I was going to de-rust, paint and refurb with a few new parts but these struts are past their best as you can see.
The front supply and return radiator hose couplings are corroded and although they are not leaking yet I don't want any surprises on future road trips. Below: off side hoses
I had previously sprayed grease on the couplings to delay deterioration but you can clearly see the corrosion
I decided to remove the front sub-frame to deal with this issue (just as well as it turned out). Support fuel tank, disconnect steering shaft (below) & disconnect the hydraulic lines (already drained during engine removal).
These hose couplings (below) are great in protected areas but where they are subjected to the weather like these are near the inner wheel arch they corrode severely and weld themselves into the female coupling of the fixed tube and are absolute hell to extract.
Good One
Bad One
Whats wrong with good old jubilee clips? reliable, cheap and a lot easier to remove after 14 years of use.
I have removed the hoses but the two aluminium cross-pipes have had it so there goes another £100. I will post some more pictures shortly. Now i'm off to place an order for 2xnew struts plus top mounts and bearings, 4 new hoses & the cross pipes.
To be continued......
....had to be cut:
Below: Once removed the struts need dissasembling to access the bump stop & gaiter. I had to cut the seized top nut off after a modicum heat failed to help. It still became hot enough to allow the centre of the top mount to fall out of the rubber bush. Initially I was going to de-rust, paint and refurb with a few new parts but these struts are past their best as you can see.
The front supply and return radiator hose couplings are corroded and although they are not leaking yet I don't want any surprises on future road trips. Below: off side hoses
I had previously sprayed grease on the couplings to delay deterioration but you can clearly see the corrosion
I decided to remove the front sub-frame to deal with this issue (just as well as it turned out). Support fuel tank, disconnect steering shaft (below) & disconnect the hydraulic lines (already drained during engine removal).
These hose couplings (below) are great in protected areas but where they are subjected to the weather like these are near the inner wheel arch they corrode severely and weld themselves into the female coupling of the fixed tube and are absolute hell to extract.
Bad One
Whats wrong with good old jubilee clips? reliable, cheap and a lot easier to remove after 14 years of use.
I have removed the hoses but the two aluminium cross-pipes have had it so there goes another £100. I will post some more pictures shortly. Now i'm off to place an order for 2xnew struts plus top mounts and bearings, 4 new hoses & the cross pipes.
To be continued......
Please do one of your excellent detailed step by step reports on the cross tube, may need some guidance soon...
Oh dear! ... the parts list keeps growing Gary. Still, well worthwhile replacing things as you go along to avoid having to go through the whole process again in time. If the front struts are shot, are you planning to replace the rears as well?
Corrosion of the hose couplings seems to be an achilles heel of the post-'96 water-cooled cars. I wonder if Porsche have addressed the problem with the later cars? Probably not, and as you say what's wrong with the jubilee-type clips every other manufacturer uses? Porsche's solution does look over-complicated.
Jeff
Corrosion of the hose couplings seems to be an achilles heel of the post-'96 water-cooled cars. I wonder if Porsche have addressed the problem with the later cars? Probably not, and as you say what's wrong with the jubilee-type clips every other manufacturer uses? Porsche's solution does look over-complicated.
Jeff
Gazza3501
New member
Hi guys
I will not be replacing the rear shocks as they are performing fine and also look to be in fine condition unlike the front and there is also the cost factor.
I wasn't very organised with my photos during the different steps in this task but i'll take some more when I re-install everything. Removal is a case of disconnecting the lower suspension joints, anti-roll (sway) bar connection with the drop links,
My drop-link bolts were badly seized. There is a facility to place a T30 torx bit in the end of the stud to stop it turning & assist removal of the nut but as you can see that didn't work so I had to cut the off-side nut off as previously pictured.
Drop links T30 fits here
Remove hose couplings (x4)--easiest ones (that don't corrode) are forward facing towards back of radiators. (Below Left) off-side pipes and after removal.
Then there's the power steering lines which are accessed from the nearside wheel arch...….
In the right picture above you can see a black gloved hand holding a small clip that needs removing from both hydraulic connectors with a small pick before disconnecting. They are not easy to see under the grime and are different sizes for each pipe (flow & return). Finally disconnect the steering shaft (1xbolt accessed from off-side wheel arch) then gently lever the clamp upwards.
Viewed from off-side wheel arch
Gently lever the clamp upwards taking care not to damage the plastic cap on the rack
Make sure steering is in straight ahead position first. Its worth marking the steering clamp position on the splines to get alignment correct on reassembly. Support the fuel tank and then release the 8x subframe bolts (4x each side) evenly & gradually. One (each side) of the forward bolts is about 5" or 6" long as it anchors the forward suspension stay. The fuel tank has two support straps hooked into the crossmember so these need levering out when the subframe is lowered a little. Its not too heavy, just awkward especially with a fuel tank support in place. I just lowered it manually and evenly each side using wooden blocks. When it is lowered a little pop the coolant vent pipes out of their clips x4 (3x through the centre above the crossmember and one is along the nearside of subframe.
Here (below) I'm disconnecting the vent pipe but its not necessary, (below right) is the pipe viewed from nearside running between back wall of "frunk" and fuel tank having already lowered the subframe.
Below is a few random pictures, I wasn't very organised during this task. I will add to this thread later as I complete phases. My engine parts have just arrived, hooray!
Cross pipes KAPUT!
Below: subframe with coolant cross pipes and rack attached
Below: View from off-side into gap above rack as subframe is lowered. Vent pipe and locating clips can be seen
to be continued...…..
I will not be replacing the rear shocks as they are performing fine and also look to be in fine condition unlike the front and there is also the cost factor.
I wasn't very organised with my photos during the different steps in this task but i'll take some more when I re-install everything. Removal is a case of disconnecting the lower suspension joints, anti-roll (sway) bar connection with the drop links,
My drop-link bolts were badly seized. There is a facility to place a T30 torx bit in the end of the stud to stop it turning & assist removal of the nut but as you can see that didn't work so I had to cut the off-side nut off as previously pictured.
Drop links T30 fits here
Remove hose couplings (x4)--easiest ones (that don't corrode) are forward facing towards back of radiators. (Below Left) off-side pipes and after removal.
In the right picture above you can see a black gloved hand holding a small clip that needs removing from both hydraulic connectors with a small pick before disconnecting. They are not easy to see under the grime and are different sizes for each pipe (flow & return). Finally disconnect the steering shaft (1xbolt accessed from off-side wheel arch) then gently lever the clamp upwards.
Gently lever the clamp upwards taking care not to damage the plastic cap on the rack
Make sure steering is in straight ahead position first. Its worth marking the steering clamp position on the splines to get alignment correct on reassembly. Support the fuel tank and then release the 8x subframe bolts (4x each side) evenly & gradually. One (each side) of the forward bolts is about 5" or 6" long as it anchors the forward suspension stay. The fuel tank has two support straps hooked into the crossmember so these need levering out when the subframe is lowered a little. Its not too heavy, just awkward especially with a fuel tank support in place. I just lowered it manually and evenly each side using wooden blocks. When it is lowered a little pop the coolant vent pipes out of their clips x4 (3x through the centre above the crossmember and one is along the nearside of subframe.
Here (below) I'm disconnecting the vent pipe but its not necessary, (below right) is the pipe viewed from nearside running between back wall of "frunk" and fuel tank having already lowered the subframe.
Below is a few random pictures, I wasn't very organised during this task. I will add to this thread later as I complete phases. My engine parts have just arrived, hooray!
Below: subframe with coolant cross pipes and rack attached
Below: View from off-side into gap above rack as subframe is lowered. Vent pipe and locating clips can be seen
to be continued...…..
Great info. I am another who will not have another modern Porsche, very poor engineering in many places, and replacement parts are just the same.
I've read you can change the pipes without dropping the subframe off the car or loosening it to give some room to wriggle those tubes out/in, what is your opinion on this please?
I've read you can change the pipes without dropping the subframe off the car or loosening it to give some room to wriggle those tubes out/in, what is your opinion on this please?
Gazza3501
New member
Ok so going back to the engine, my parts delivery arrived. I have fitted a new o-ring to the IMS bearing centre shaft. (old o-ring pictured)
I then replaced the cover seal before re-installing with new bolts and centre nut (below left). All these have a sealant applied to the threads at the factory. Pictured below (right) you can see my improvised locking tool to assist flexplate (flywheel) installation using new stretch bolts.
I don't know if its clear in the picture (below) but I cleaned up the engine components as well as replacing AOS, rubber connecting pipes & a number of seals and gaskets. I degreased the transmission which was very oily from the IMS leak and when the part arrives, I intend to replace a driveshaft/diff seal which is also weeping. The tranny oil and coolant pipes were rusted quite badly and I considered replacing them but after many hours applying rust treatment they recovered well so I painted them for future protection.
Pictured before treatment (Below)
Raising the engine back into place, a slow job checking all around frequently. It all went into place quite easily. (Below left) and feeding engine wiring loom through aperture into boot (below right) as engine is raised.
Below-crossmember de-rusted, treated and painted. Now looking considerably better from below
Exhaust back in place and bumper etc all installed
The worst part of engine removal is in my opinion, dealing with the AC unit. access to the rear mounting bolt is an absolute b*st*rd. What view you have of this bolt (under the inlet manifold) is obscured by the fuel tank vent solenoid. One is supposed to "just" push this aside to access said bolt risking breakage of this small brittle £400 device. The single electrical connector for the AC unit is on top of the right cylinder wiring loom, completely invisible and awkward beyond belief! Much general swearing and cursing of Porsche designers took place during this phase.
Currently awaiting diff flange seal and front suspension parts, so will post more pics of that installation later.....
I then replaced the cover seal before re-installing with new bolts and centre nut (below left). All these have a sealant applied to the threads at the factory. Pictured below (right) you can see my improvised locking tool to assist flexplate (flywheel) installation using new stretch bolts.
I don't know if its clear in the picture (below) but I cleaned up the engine components as well as replacing AOS, rubber connecting pipes & a number of seals and gaskets. I degreased the transmission which was very oily from the IMS leak and when the part arrives, I intend to replace a driveshaft/diff seal which is also weeping. The tranny oil and coolant pipes were rusted quite badly and I considered replacing them but after many hours applying rust treatment they recovered well so I painted them for future protection.
Pictured before treatment (Below)
Raising the engine back into place, a slow job checking all around frequently. It all went into place quite easily. (Below left) and feeding engine wiring loom through aperture into boot (below right) as engine is raised.
Below-crossmember de-rusted, treated and painted. Now looking considerably better from below
Exhaust back in place and bumper etc all installed
The worst part of engine removal is in my opinion, dealing with the AC unit. access to the rear mounting bolt is an absolute b*st*rd. What view you have of this bolt (under the inlet manifold) is obscured by the fuel tank vent solenoid. One is supposed to "just" push this aside to access said bolt risking breakage of this small brittle £400 device. The single electrical connector for the AC unit is on top of the right cylinder wiring loom, completely invisible and awkward beyond belief! Much general swearing and cursing of Porsche designers took place during this phase.
Currently awaiting diff flange seal and front suspension parts, so will post more pics of that installation later.....
Really good reporting, this thread should be an easy-to-find sticky in the Boxster/Cayman sections imho.
With modern cars they build them quickly because they are designed for 'clunk-click, push-snap' connecting, so how did the factory approach the A/C difficulties you have detailed?
With modern cars they build them quickly because they are designed for 'clunk-click, push-snap' connecting, so how did the factory approach the A/C difficulties you have detailed?
Gazza3501
New member
During initial assembly at the factory I would think that the AC unit and associated pipework is installed on the engine and connected to the system underneath which is easily accessable. It's only during remedial work when things become difficult because the AC unit can be removed from the engine but stay attached to the car to avoid recharging the system.
Gazza3501
New member
I have just received some parts so I can reassemble the front crossmember, fill the coolant system and get the engine running again
For anyone who's interested here's a picture of the crossmember and associated parts laid out (shown with old coolant pipes). A few rusty brackets have been cleaned-up and re-painted.
Here is the assembly complete with new coolant pipes. (below)
I will be refitting this into the car shortly followed by new struts etc
To be continue
For anyone who's interested here's a picture of the crossmember and associated parts laid out (shown with old coolant pipes). A few rusty brackets have been cleaned-up and re-painted.
Here is the assembly complete with new coolant pipes. (below)
I will be refitting this into the car shortly followed by new struts etc
To be continue
Gazza3501
New member
Ok so nearly there now. I installed the subframe yesterday, a fairly straight forward process. I n the picture below taken from the nearside wheel-arch you can see power steering connections, coolant connectors and the small coolant pipe that connects between the radiators and the expansion tank vent.
Below you can see the much needed new coolant pipes and...………....installed.
I used a smear of dielectric grease around the hose couplings. This helps installation and also helps preserve them a little so the come apart later.
Pictured below, you can see the pipes completely flattened where I have put the system under vacuum before refilling. Pictured below/right is the tool I used available quite cheaply via Ebay. It saves a ton of work by making what could be a lengthly refill & bleed process quite painless.
All is well now, up and running. I need two parts. rubber spring seats for struts and a flange seal for the diff. Once I have those I will post the last few pics and details to end this thread.
Below you can see the much needed new coolant pipes and...………....installed.
I used a smear of dielectric grease around the hose couplings. This helps installation and also helps preserve them a little so the come apart later.
Pictured below, you can see the pipes completely flattened where I have put the system under vacuum before refilling. Pictured below/right is the tool I used available quite cheaply via Ebay. It saves a ton of work by making what could be a lengthly refill & bleed process quite painless.
All is well now, up and running. I need two parts. rubber spring seats for struts and a flange seal for the diff. Once I have those I will post the last few pics and details to end this thread.
We have all said it already, but a great thread on this part of the forum.
Those pics of the layout and the sub-frame etc : talk about a picture speaking a 1000 words. Really good for someone like me when the time comes. You are/have covered most of the nasty jobs a Boxster can present.
Thank you very much.
Graham
Those pics of the layout and the sub-frame etc : talk about a picture speaking a 1000 words. Really good for someone like me when the time comes. You are/have covered most of the nasty jobs a Boxster can present.
Thank you very much.
Graham
Gazza3501
New member
911hillclimber said:
I'm glad you like the thread and the info I've posted. Thanks for your kind comments.
I forgot to mention although probably obvious, is that you need an air compressor in order to make use of the vacuum tool. The advantage apart from those already mentioned is that it also tests the cooling system for leaks prior to filling.
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