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Help so confused about oil for a turbo

DC911SC

New member
Guys as you prob know need to do an oil change on this long term non runner, I am away all week and need to go for euro parts, 911 parts or CP4L for delivery to our rather rural address! .Ironically they are pretty much the same thing!

I only plan do do a few months and couple of hundred miles on this oil as the car has sat so long. Bearing that in mind what should I use is the shell helix ok 15w 40 or 20w50 their is valvoline but not sure on the weights.

There are so many oil threads and confused on fully v semi synthetic and best weight...... Also bearing in mind the car has sat so long (several years)
 
Either should be fine, although I might be tempted to see how it runs on a 10W- (or maybe even a good 5W-), as you know that youre changing it and itll give you an opportunity to see if it uses much.
 
Funnily enough I've just had the oil done on mine this week and went for Royal Purple 10-40w on the advice of a local motorsports prep place.

I'm sure that Stuart at AAS in Newcastle would arrange delivery if you wanted it from him, about £11 per 946ml
 
Had 05/40 helix in mine when I got it, what the PO ran it on. I changed it 2 mobil extended life which is 10/60

Oil pressure went up a whole bar when hot.

Low of 4 with Mobil
Low of 3 on the helix

Just replaced head gastic as I'm going stage 2. Boars and head are great after 120000

Iv done 12000 on the Mobil

Mobil is expensive £60 x5ltrs need about 10 every 6000 miles changed and useage

After the new oil seals useage will hopefully go down a bit
 
Opie oils are good they recommend what's good based on use. I am using a Fuchs Titan pro s 10w 50.
 
I dont dislike Opie, quite the opposite, but their advice isnt something Id rely on. Not too long ago they were recommending 0W- and 5W- oil for 924S engines. This was because of the very poor advice from the oil manufacturers (Mobil, for example push 0W- for the 924S engine), but it shows that they dont know the cars nor what suits them.
 
Silkolene Pro-S 5W- in my series one car and it doesnt use a drop either, despite being far from ideal.
 
Just got me 20 litres of Fuchs Titan R 10/40W which will do the brace with some to spare.
 
ORIGINAL: 944 man

Silkolene Pro-S 5W- in my series one car and it doesnt use a drop either, despite being far from ideal.

can you expand how come its far from ideal? i can get Fuchs locally so maybe its worth a go - 20w 50? I suspect I will have to drop the oil after not long but still want good protection, the thought of ditching a load of mobil 1 isnt appealing!
 
I use 10W60 in mine (what a specialist recommended) with no issues. His preference was for Valvoline VR1 (I shall admit that their 20W50 seems to work quite well in my Stag; it does not degrade as quickly as other oils IME and seems to give superior oil pressure when hot in comparison to other 'classic' and cheap 20W50s. I know that in the Mini circles they rave about VR1 as well).

Maybe next time around I will use VR1 10W60 in the Porsche, but for now Mobil 1 seems to be OK.
 
A good 10W40 semi will be fine, although investment in a full synthetic will provide better protection if the cars a keeper, the Fuchs Titan Pro S 10W50 would be ideal but its not cheap.

I would be wary of 10W60 grade oils despite the apparent recommendation. At no point have Porsche recommended *W60 grade oils for these cars and I believe they are just not suitable.

Whilst I can understand the attraction the 10W60 grade oils may give people, 10W* for good winter starts, **60 for good film strength at high temps, reasonable costs to purchase, etc. I also have issue with them. Porsche generally recommend a *40 grade oil for our climate, that means that at working engine temps the oil is at the correct viscosity to provide adequate lubrication, film strength and proper oil flow (not pressure). If more protection is required due to modification, track days, hot climate then a decent synthetic 10w50 is more than enough. Using a *60 grade oil means that the oil is 70% thicker at working temps than the *40 grade oil. Whilst its ability to provide adequate film strength its not questioned, it will increase heat through friction, reduce bhp and mpg and most worryingly of all reduce oil flow through the engine.

The higher oil pressure seen when using this oil does not = better oil flow, infact the opposite is happening, the oil increases pressure because its much thicker and harder to move around the engine, the engine would have to get very very hot for the oil to be thin enough to provide the same levels of oil flow as seen with the *40 grade oil at normal working temps.

The increase in popularity of this oil seems to stem from Mobil discontinuing of their popular (and more suitable) 15W50 'motorsport oil, it was replaced with the 10W60 and may be the reason for the specialist recommendation as the 15W50 is no longer available.



Edd
 
Thanks for the very detailed responses chaps its amazing how many options there are I let let you know what I go for but at the moment will aim for a 10w 40 synthetic probably Fuchs
 
Been running Fuchs Titan Pro R 15W50 since last weekend in replacement of Motul 300V 15W50. Just fancied a change.

I would suggest against using anything thinner than a 10W40 in a turbo, especially a high miler.
It's also important to use an oil with a high amount of ZDDP in order to preserve hydraulic lifters.
 
jmg recommends mobil 1 10w60.

I'm using it in my very high mile track car - I wouldn't bother for the road. Hot idle pressure is above 3 bar - much higher than similar oils in the turbo.

I will probably drop to 10w50 now I've used all the mobil 1.

I tried loads of different oils in the turbo on track. vr1 10w60 dropped pressure when very hot, castrol edge disappeared very quickly, millers cfs was best for hot pressure and low usage.

10w40 for the road sounds just fine.

 
anyone using additives in the oil?

I wouldnt, by a good quality oil with decent amounts of ZDDP and that meets or exceeds the ACAE A3/B4 specs and you will already have all the best additives added by the manufacturer. I would also stay away from ZDDP additives as unless you know exactly what your doing they can do more harm than good.


Edd
 
ORIGINAL: 944 man

I dont dislike Opie, quite the opposite, but their advice isnt something Id rely on. Not too long ago they were recommending 0W- and 5W- oil for 924S engines. This was because of the very poor advice from the oil manufacturers (Mobil, for example push 0W- for the 924S engine), but it shows that they dont know the cars nor what suits them.
+1...I found similar ignorance when reading some of their forum.
I'm also very suspect of these oils with a large range in their numbers ie 0w/40 , 10w/50 or even 10w/60. I think it's naive of us to think that they're all nice and gentle at cold startup yet provide thick film strength when hot. That to me is successful marketing meeting wishful thinking.
 

ORIGINAL: T3rra


Mobil is expensive £60 x5ltrs need about 10 every 6000 miles changed and useage


GSF have 5l Mobil 1 10w60 on promo - £31.50+VAT.

but I'd still start with 10w40 - semi or full synth, not too expensive.


 

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