[link=http://s1081.photobucket.com/albums/j348/colin944/?action=organize]http://s1081.photobucket.com/albums/j348/colin944/?action=organize[/link] This link will take you to loads of pictures I took when I did my sills and floor on my car.I have also put a drawing of the sill profile on there as well.
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crystal green project for sale
- Thread starter ed325i
- Start date
pauljmcnulty
Active member
I'm veering towards recommending taking them off. I've had more than a few reports of early signs of corrosion on the lower a-pillars from people who've taken the wings off, and it seems sensible to get in there and treat/protect everything. I guess you need to take a view based on the overall condition of the car; perhaps if it shows signs of having corrosion in other areas it might be worth taking them off? If the car is otherwise looking like it's led a very pampered life, living in a garage and not being out on salty roads, maybe you'll be doing more damage removing the wings with no benefit. Tough call.How easy was it to get the front wings off? I've heard that they are bolted on and also glued with lots of sticky stuff. I have some rot at the bottom of mine and I don't know if it makes more sense to remove and repair or weld a patch in-situ? They are mostly in good condition so I wouldn't want to cause damage getting them off.
If you MIG/TIG weld your car it is wise to remove the following units: Motronic, ABS computer, Air Bag computer, KLR computer. Of course all cars does not have these, but if they are in your car, remove them. Disconnect battery as well.I was wondering if it's necessary to remove the ABS unit to take off the drivers side front wing?
Thanks for the advice! It is an even tougher call on my car... the passenger side has a perfect front wing, but a blob of corrosion on the A pillar just as it goes behind the wing. The drivers side wing is rotten at the bottom, but the A pillar looks fine! Olli... good point on the welding... I wonder how many body shops bother to do this? I suppose a MIG welder putting out 20V or so will mean that every point around the bodywork will be somewhere between 0-20V, and something like the DME with sensors everywhere will see those sorts of voltage on it's inputs/outputs.ORIGINAL: pauljmcnulty I guess you need to take a view based on the overall condition of the car; perhaps if it shows signs of having corrosion in other areas it might be worth taking them off? If the car is otherwise looking like it's led a very pampered life, living in a garage and not being out on salty roads, maybe you'll be doing more damage removing the wings with no benefit. Tough call.
I don't see how a battery saver is going to save your DME! Enjoyed your restoration photos Colin... looks like quite an extensive repair! I have a nice dent where some miscreant jacked up my car underneath the drivers footwell... but hopefully there is still some solid metal between the sound deadening and underseal...ORIGINAL: colin944 Alot of people use so called battery savers on the battery when welding.But I prefer to go with what Oli says and remove the computers and the battery. And anyway the battery makes a good wee seat when you are welding
I have removed all the jack plates off the bottom of my car.No-one will ever be allowed to jack it up without me there telling them where to put the jack.Thanks for the comments rob.I started off doing a quick clean up and a respray and ended up 4 years later rebuilding the car.The only bits that have not been taken off and replaced or cleaned etc are the heater matix and the mechanism for the sunroof.Not long to go now though and should get it back on the road for this summer.
Looks great and the sill covers do look ok - all I would say is that you need the wheels out as far as possible to make it look right.


15" shpuld run 215/65x15, thats the biggest option Porsche list in the manual. This is my old 2.5 on them, on Cookies.
And another one showing how far out they sit (with Andys - Hairyarse - red one)


Hoping you'd approve - bit more advertising too[
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