944 Turbo Central locking Console Button Problem

[Mark_Hamilton]

Hello 944 enthusiasts,

Now that I have a bit more spare time [] , I have been tackling a few jobs on my 1990 944 turbo. I have managed to get the central locking fully working in the sense that the car can be locked and unlocked from both drivers and passenger doors and both door open/close together as required. Hurray ! However, the fun starts when I press the central locking button on the console. The car locks fine but does not unlock with the red led continuing to illuminate. The drivers door lock is disabled from the outside and the only way I can unlock the car when in this state is to manually pull up the interior driver or passenger door knob on the inside.

So, I am looking for any advice as to where the fault may reside. Is it in the console switch or in the control unit under the steering wheel, or in the wiring ?. Any advice gratefully received.

Mark H

 

[PSH]

Hi Mark

I'll be watching this thread to see what the collectivr have to say. My 86 turbo does this sometimes but works more than not, so an intermittent issue. I've not investigated it yet, perhaps if someone knows the cause I will take a look.

Pete

 

[Eldavo]

Mine did this - I never got to the bottom of it so I removed the central locking button as it was most annoying if you accidentally pushed it.

 

[scam75]

My button works perfectly, maybe I shall not bother using it ever again!!

You only really need it when stopped at lights in dodgy areas though, so bin the kerb crawling and you'll be all good! I am joking of course......

On a more serious note, you would imagine relay related, its quite a clunk shut when you hit that button. Or as you say, worth trying a known good switch first. Should be common to all series 2 944's, 85 on.

Stuart

 

[Mark_Hamilton]

Many thanks for all the replies 944 enthusiasts,

As suggested, I could just unplug the console switch as a last resort but that is a bit of a cop out really after all the effort Porsche made to put it there in the first place. Good to know that I am not the only one to have this problem. I will definitely avoid the kerb crawling in future by getting on boost more often ! As an aside, I am on a slightly different long term plan with this car. Rather than going for maximum power etc with new turbo, injectors, exhausts, Engine management etc, , I am trying to get maximum drive ability with the most flexible and widest torque band out of the standard injectors and setup (no new clutch, major brake and suspension mods etc) so targeting 280bhp at the wheels (which i already have) but great progressive torque available as soon as possible (2500 rpm +) and for as long as possible. Where I live we have some great twisty roads that suit the 944s great handling . Maybe I should start a separate thread for this purpose unless its been done before which i am sure it could have?

M

 

[dlknight]

Mine also only works to lock (not unlock) - is this as intended? as said above you can unlock by pulling the door pin up.

 

[PSH]

I use mine fairly often as it is wired into the alarm. Start the car and after a few seconds after drivers door is closed it will lock you in. Turn engine off and it lets you out, if the engine is running and you need to strp out quickly this is when the switch is used. It will lock again when you get back into the car.

Except for when it plays up, of course...??

 

[scam75]

Mine also only works to lock (not unlock) - is this as intended? as said above you can unlock by pulling the door pin up.

No, it fires on and off when working.

 

[scam75]

Many thanks for all the replies 944 enthusiasts,

As suggested, I could just unplug the console switch as a last resort but that is a bit of a cop out really after all the effort Porsche made to put it there in the first place. Good to know that I am not the only one to have this problem. I will definitely avoid the kerb crawling in future by getting on boost more often ! As an aside, I am on a slightly different long term plan with this car. Rather than going for maximum power etc with new turbo, injectors, exhausts, Engine management etc, , I am trying to get maximum drive ability with the most flexible and widest torque band out of the standard injectors and setup (no new clutch, major brake and suspension mods etc) so targeting 280bhp at the wheels (which i already have) but great progressive torque available as soon as possible (2500 rpm +) and for as long as possible. Where I live we have some great twisty roads that suit the 944s great handling . Maybe I should start a separate thread for this purpose unless its been done before which i am sure it could have?

M

Hi Mark

Mine spools up quicker with the MAF than the old AFM, but not night and day transformation.

You will need some sort of electronic boost controller and engine management software to do get what you are after. Worth speaking to our own Eldavo, who's car goes off like a rocket without much trace of lag, more akin to a modern performance car. Granted he has a long list of mods but he'll keep you right with what you are after hopefully.

Stuart

 

[Eldavo]

Many thanks for all the replies 944 enthusiasts,

As suggested, I could just unplug the console switch as a last resort but that is a bit of a cop out really after all the effort Porsche made to put it there in the first place. Good to know that I am not the only one to have this problem. I will definitely avoid the kerb crawling in future by getting on boost more often ! As an aside, I am on a slightly different long term plan with this car. Rather than going for maximum power etc with new turbo, injectors, exhausts, Engine management etc, , I am trying to get maximum drive ability with the most flexible and widest torque band out of the standard injectors and setup (no new clutch, major brake and suspension mods etc) so targeting 280bhp at the wheels (which i already have) but great progressive torque available as soon as possible (2500 rpm +) and for as long as possible. Where I live we have some great twisty roads that suit the 944s great handling . Maybe I should start a separate thread for this purpose unless its been done before which i am sure it could have?

M

There you go, that’s 403 ft/lbs at 2750 rpm and a torque plateau rather than a curve. Main things you’ll need for getting close to that is a hybrid rebuilt k26/8 from Turbo Dynamics and some type of electronic boost control. I’ve done an awful lot more as Stuart says but as you’ve correctly asserted - you don’t need to throw the kitchen sink at it to get to the power levels you’re after.

 

[Waylander]

==J Central Locking Button
By pressing the central locking button in the
centre console, it is possible to lock both doors
electrically. As a check, an indicator lamp in the
button lights up when the doors are locked.
To unlock via the locking button, the ignition
must be switched on.

from the manual

 

[scam75]

==J Central Locking Button
By pressing the central locking button in the
centre console, it is possible to lock both doors
electrically. As a check, an indicator lamp in the
button lights up when the doors are locked.
To unlock via the locking button, the ignition
must be switched on.

from the manual

I will afford myself a chuckle if this is the case, well pointed out Martin!! And the easiest of easy fixes!

 

[Mark_Hamilton]

Thanks all especially the advice to rtfm ! Unfortunately, my car does not unlock with the ignition on and both door knobs are broken as it looks like this has been happening for some time and previous owners have obviously been doing similar and worn out the risers. Good advice though as the problem appears to be around power not getting to the control circuitry as rerquired. I think the switch for the central locking is the same as my 993 so may swap over as a test to eliminate etc. Will keep you posted of outcome re switch vs control unit.

M

 

[Mark_Hamilton]

Thanks Eldavo, That's a great result. As I don't want to go the whole hog with knock on effect for chassis , brakes, clutch, head gasket etc, then my thought is to get a curve similar to you in terms of shape but with max power restricted by 3 bar regulator and good standard injectors with rest of car (brakes, suspension etc) balanced to match. I have the original 26/8 turbo in the car so sounds like a refurb and upgrade on that plus some superior Engine management. Any recommendations? Do think the 944 is an under rated machine .

M

 

[Eldavo]

Thanks Eldavo, That's a great result. As I don't want to go the whole hog with knock on effect for chassis , brakes, clutch, head gasket etc, then my thought is to get a curve similar to you in terms of shape but with max power restricted by 3 bar regulator and good standard injectors with rest of car (brakes, suspension etc) balanced to match. I have the original 26/8 turbo in the car so sounds like a refurb and upgrade on that plus some superior Engine management. Any recommendations? Do think the 944 is an under rated machine .

M

You may wish to find a comfy seat . . .

https://www.porscheclubgb.com/forum/tm.aspx?m=1032067

 

[944Turbo]

I belive locking can behave strangely if door switches misbehave - which they are a little prone too. Also old alarm wiring, or maybe the switch itself.

David Benjamin's car drove very well with a standard turbo - Dual port wastegate / 55lb injectors / slightly tweeked maf / Electronic boost control and a set of chips. http://www.cannell.co.uk/UKL%20F835VJT.htm around 370ftlbs and 320 BHp (Standard exhaust at that stage - felt quicker again with a custom system - but it didn't get to a dyno). I did a lot of the work on it so happy to point you in the right direction - There are better options now VEMS etc. but cost and complication adds up! Engine was pretty healthy prior to mods though - well looked.
David sadly passed away a couple of years ago (rest in peace), but his sons were lucky enough to purchase the car.
With a similar set up / hybrid turbo /exhaust mine made more power but not quite as much torque. All above was at 18psi so retaining some safety margin on the standard internals.

Tony

 

[Mark_Hamilton]

Good morning All,
Update on the central locking issue - Looks like the problem has occurred due to a previous alarm system being fitted and then subsequently removed. I have not got it back to standard wiring yet but am highly confident that the problem of failure to unlock is caused by a poor reinstatement of electric after a Clifford alarm system was removed by a previous owner. Anyone who has a similar problem should look in this direction and ensure any wiring from a previous alarm install is reinstated properly. Thanks for all the help everyone M