Hope that is the plan!
Posting it off tomorrow. If the delay is huge, then will remove it all for the twin plug distributor etc.
Posting it off tomorrow. If the delay is huge, then will remove it all for the twin plug distributor etc.
8000 rpm 3.2 engine?
- Thread starter 911hillclimber
- Start date
It is in Virginia and tested to be trouble free of course.
Clewett saying I should now fit a hall type. Sensor to kill noise off the engine and starter.
This will cost me a further £200 and I have to pay more to have them send the ecu back to me.
They will not say it will fix the problem.
I feel they do not have a solution, just for me to spend more with them.
unless I pay up, I won't get it back.
lost the start of the season now, first time in 30 years.
I am bitter about the whole thing.
Clewett saying I should now fit a hall type. Sensor to kill noise off the engine and starter.
This will cost me a further £200 and I have to pay more to have them send the ecu back to me.
They will not say it will fix the problem.
I feel they do not have a solution, just for me to spend more with them.
unless I pay up, I won't get it back.
lost the start of the season now, first time in 30 years.
I am bitter about the whole thing.
That’s unbelievable Graham! So now they’re saying in effect that they sold you an unworkable system and are offering you a possible - but not guaranteed - solution via a different type of crank sensor … at your expense? ??
What a bunch of charlatans, assuming they’re claiming that their bespoke ignition package provides a fully-working system on air-cooled engines such as yours? The irony is that if you were an American citizen receiving such treatment I’m sure that they’d be falling over themselves to sort the problem for fear of litigation.
Maybe you should take up the offer of the loan of the mechanical system just to get you a working solution while you battle it out with Clewett?
Sincere good luck for whatever path you choose.
Jeff
What a bunch of charlatans, assuming they’re claiming that their bespoke ignition package provides a fully-working system on air-cooled engines such as yours? The irony is that if you were an American citizen receiving such treatment I’m sure that they’d be falling over themselves to sort the problem for fear of litigation.
Maybe you should take up the offer of the loan of the mechanical system just to get you a working solution while you battle it out with Clewett?
Sincere good luck for whatever path you choose.
Jeff
The mechanical twin plug system has 'gone-away', so my options are to be screwed again by the USA companies (I estimate £300), or to cut free, stuff them, and go DTA ecu for £1200.
Utter utter disappointment.
The whole engine has been this way, I did not expect this.
Utter utter disappointment.
The whole engine has been this way, I did not expect this.
Final attempt to get this thing to work.
Have agreed to spends $338 to get my XDi box back and a new hall sensor too.
Could be with me in a week.
They lovingly discounted the sensor by $16 to $149....
At least I have all the kit back with me, might even work and if it does, great.
To be rid of these two USA companies will be fabulous, a really poor experience but have to move on.
Plan B is shaping up well mind, more money, but readily available.
Could still make the first race at Prescott!
Have agreed to spends $338 to get my XDi box back and a new hall sensor too.
Could be with me in a week.
They lovingly discounted the sensor by $16 to $149....
At least I have all the kit back with me, might even work and if it does, great.
To be rid of these two USA companies will be fabulous, a really poor experience but have to move on.
Plan B is shaping up well mind, more money, but readily available.
Could still make the first race at Prescott!
Interesting day on the Lola today.
Ran the XDi box's grounds direct to the battery (helps kill some noise)
The crank sensor is removed and the loom modified for the Hall sensor that's coming.
Emailed the starter motor supplier, Brise, yesterday and they have replied. Not a known problem but they want to know how I get on (
)
A suggestion is to add a dedicated earth cable from the starter to the battery ground direct.
I have been through the entire installation.
First was to machine a small tool turned to push directly on the female terminals in the 23 way connector.
No terminals push back (ie when you push the 23 way connector into the XDi box).
All wires in the right pin location ticked-off in the manual, so all good.
The jumper lead added for the Hall sensor coming (linking pins 4 & 5 together) in the 23 way plug.
All power leads (3) belled through from the +ve battery terminal to the XDi box and the two coil packs.
All grounds tested good.
The closest the crank sensor cable is to any of the system on the engine is 10".
Inevitably, the lot all come intimate at the 23 pin plug.
Electromotive have not given me a FedEx tracker (
) so have no idea if it is on it's way or gone to the moon.
Clewett has stopped answering emails.....
Emeralds ECU people enthusiastic, Megasquirt Dealer very energetic! DTA still there waiting.
I really cannot see where there is a flaw in the installation.
End of next week might be interesting.
Ran the XDi box's grounds direct to the battery (helps kill some noise)
The crank sensor is removed and the loom modified for the Hall sensor that's coming.
Emailed the starter motor supplier, Brise, yesterday and they have replied. Not a known problem but they want to know how I get on (
A suggestion is to add a dedicated earth cable from the starter to the battery ground direct.
I have been through the entire installation.
First was to machine a small tool turned to push directly on the female terminals in the 23 way connector.
No terminals push back (ie when you push the 23 way connector into the XDi box).
All wires in the right pin location ticked-off in the manual, so all good.
The jumper lead added for the Hall sensor coming (linking pins 4 & 5 together) in the 23 way plug.
All power leads (3) belled through from the +ve battery terminal to the XDi box and the two coil packs.
All grounds tested good.
The closest the crank sensor cable is to any of the system on the engine is 10".
Inevitably, the lot all come intimate at the 23 pin plug.
Electromotive have not given me a FedEx tracker (
Clewett has stopped answering emails.....
Emeralds ECU people enthusiastic, Megasquirt Dealer very energetic! DTA still there waiting.
I really cannot see where there is a flaw in the installation.
End of next week might be interesting.
AndrewT
Member
I have my fingers crossed for you that Clewett have indeed dispatched the ECU to you and at the correct address. The dedicated earth sounds like a good suggestion. Does the lead to the (possibly troublesome) sensor have any screening, or could you add some screening to it, and presumably connect the screen to earth?
The cable used Andrew is screened. We even wrapped the cable with additional fine wire /mesh screen sleeveing, grounded at one end.
Did nothing.
The Boys on Pelican are dumbfounded too.
Did nothing.
The Boys on Pelican are dumbfounded too.
Unexpectedly, FedEx arrived this afternoon out of the blue.
Thus i have the Xdi back and the new Hall sensor.
Got the 'conversion' wires all in and tidy and switched it all on.
The light on the unit starts solid Green. Tick
The light alternates red/green while cranking the engine over. Tick
The light goes back to solid Green when I stop. Tick
Doesn't start or fart or pop, but that will be for another day this week.
This is a major move forward, never seen this before.
But, it has not started.
The Diagnostic sheet says this condition will occure if there is no power to the coil packs. although i belled it all through a few days ago I will see what volts are geting to the coil packs. simple test.
I have a Neutral feeling atm.
Thus i have the Xdi back and the new Hall sensor.
Got the 'conversion' wires all in and tidy and switched it all on.
The light on the unit starts solid Green. Tick
The light alternates red/green while cranking the engine over. Tick
The light goes back to solid Green when I stop. Tick
Doesn't start or fart or pop, but that will be for another day this week.
This is a major move forward, never seen this before.
But, it has not started.
The Diagnostic sheet says this condition will occure if there is no power to the coil packs. although i belled it all through a few days ago I will see what volts are geting to the coil packs. simple test.
I have a Neutral feeling atm.
Slowly, slowly catch your monkey!
practice is just that, don't peak in Practice!!
practice is just that, don't peak in Practice!!
IT RUNS!
Checked all the wires, all the volts, all the pin-outs and most importantly swore at it.
Turned it all on. Pumped the carbs as usual and splutter and in an instant flashed into life.
Sound amazing.
Ran it for about 5 mins @ 2500 ish and blipped occasionally, oil pressure normal etc, no nasty mechanical noises etc.
XDi has a solid green on switch-on, red/green on cranking, solid green on switch off. Left it for a few mins while Mrs Hillclimber stood and was mighty relieved, and it restarted like before (always was a a good hot starter).
Switched off and linked the time light to #1 cylinder and re-started, 2650 rpm tick over, advance needs a tweak, but will leave it to Ben at BHP to dial it in.
So, I have a running 1,000,000 bhp @8000 red line Lola hillclimb car.
Might get to within 6 seconds of that Mini now.
Will take a video when at BHP and post it. Day booked for 20 April, 2 days before Prescott.
Please may I say a very big thank you to everyone on here for the help, guidance and encouragement through possibly the hardest, most frustrating thing I've ever done.
Graham.
Checked all the wires, all the volts, all the pin-outs and most importantly swore at it.
Turned it all on. Pumped the carbs as usual and splutter and in an instant flashed into life.
Sound amazing.
Ran it for about 5 mins @ 2500 ish and blipped occasionally, oil pressure normal etc, no nasty mechanical noises etc.
XDi has a solid green on switch-on, red/green on cranking, solid green on switch off. Left it for a few mins while Mrs Hillclimber stood and was mighty relieved, and it restarted like before (always was a a good hot starter).
Switched off and linked the time light to #1 cylinder and re-started, 2650 rpm tick over, advance needs a tweak, but will leave it to Ben at BHP to dial it in.
So, I have a running 1,000,000 bhp @8000 red line Lola hillclimb car.
Might get to within 6 seconds of that Mini now.
Will take a video when at BHP and post it. Day booked for 20 April, 2 days before Prescott.
Please may I say a very big thank you to everyone on here for the help, guidance and encouragement through possibly the hardest, most frustrating thing I've ever done.
Graham.
]
Little update and lead-up to a very significant week.
The car is booked-in tot he local rolling road, BHP to be broken in (could be an unfortunate term that) and the advance curve dialed in tight. About a morning's work.
I hope to get a few max runs out of the session so I know where the max torque and BHP are.
Assuming that all goes well, we are entered for the hillclimb at Prescott on 23/24 April, I have a new class mate with a Pilbeam MP 92 with a big block 7300cc engine...
However, I have damaged my right shoulder and left hand very painfully so driving the car may prove difficult, even irresponsible, so things may go south.
Here is the car with the old 14" wheels and slicks used for the harsh rolling road sessions, the correct wheels are a mere 10" wide and very soft slicks, so can't use them, also £260 each to replace.
I hope to take a video of the runs, and if this happens, will post them up.
The car is booked-in tot he local rolling road, BHP to be broken in (could be an unfortunate term that) and the advance curve dialed in tight. About a morning's work.
I hope to get a few max runs out of the session so I know where the max torque and BHP are.
Assuming that all goes well, we are entered for the hillclimb at Prescott on 23/24 April, I have a new class mate with a Pilbeam MP 92 with a big block 7300cc engine...
However, I have damaged my right shoulder and left hand very painfully so driving the car may prove difficult, even irresponsible, so things may go south.
Here is the car with the old 14" wheels and slicks used for the harsh rolling road sessions, the correct wheels are a mere 10" wide and very soft slicks, so can't use them, also £260 each to replace.
I hope to take a video of the runs, and if this happens, will post them up.
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