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Homelink

Lancerlot

PCGB Member
Member
So far all attempts to programme Homelink to my garage doors have failed. No-one seems too keen to assist either. Contacted the door manufacturer, the installer and the PC, but so far no luck. [8|]

I've managed to programme the automatic gates - no problem there, so I know I'm on the right track, but the wretched garage doors refuse to cooperate! [:mad:]

I get halfway there with the car accepting the signal from the garage remote by flashing its indicators at me 3 times, but that's about as far as it gets. There are no programming instructions with my roller shutter doors (SWS), but I removed the outer casing and located the learning button in its controller box. This beeps at me, but doesn't seem to permit synchronisation with the Homelink button in the car.

Any suggestion would be gratefully received. The Homelink website is pretty unhelpful, although it does say the Teleco door control box I have is compatible. :rolleyes:

Last time I had this problem was around 4 years ago when my 911 Homelink only operated on the 433 MHz frequency, whereas I was told the doors are 868 MHz. I've no idea if this was true as I've no way of checking these frequencies, but I would have thought the Homelink now installed by Porsche in their cars would cover during the intervening 4 year period since I understand most modern doors now work on 868 MHz.

Yours completely flummoxed,


Clive
 
My door controller is a Teleco TVPRP868N09.
I've been in direct touch with Homelink but so far no response - maybe the Covids have got them! :rolleyes:
They're all happy enough to sell you these options, but no-one seems particularly bothered to help when they don't work! [:mad:]
Regards,

Clive

 
just an update. Yesterday,I linked my new Spyder to the Homelink Universal receiver so now works with both cars. It was easy but a different procedure to the handbook. All on Youtube. I think the receiver is about £75.

 
Thank you, Lawrence that's a couple of very useful links there and these have certainly added some clarity to the matter.

I'm no electrical engineer as will become apparent from what is to follow. But I am able to install the odd power socket here and there - even rewire a motor vehicle (5 actually in my youth), but when it comes to modern electronics I'm pretty much stumped!

Now here's the thing, over the last couple of years, I have had 3 cars fitted with the Homelink system - none of which would operate my garage doors. [:mad:] Comforted by the fact they've all operated my electric gates (which are older) so money hadn't been completely wasted, :rolleyes: I've summarily brought my investigations to a close and just stuck one of the original door remotes onto the centre console with blue tack. But lockdown has goaded me into carrying out a little more investigation and here's what I've been able to ascertain so far.

Firstly, the Homelink phone number in the Macan handbook just rings the RAC - their insurance broker arm, I think, so no help there. However, I did find another payphone hotline online (+49 7132 3455 733) and got through to a charming lady in Deutschland (Melanie), who confirmed what I had already suspected, my door controller was incompatible. So she then directed me to the German website https://www.shopssl.de/epages/es10567317.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es10567317/Categories where a rolling code universal receiver Model PR433-4 is being offered at €53 + €20 P&P.

It appears Homelink will only work with systems operating on 433Mhz frequencies, whereas much electronic gadgetry nowadays uses 868Mhz and so the two will not talk to one another. To get the doors to work, you must therefore piggyback a second unit onto the door's original operator unit that will responds to the 433Mhz Homelink signal. Snoozing anyone? Pay attention at the back! [:D]

Lawrence's link to UK based Easygates seems to offer a similar unit at £72, but in this case, their technical dept say I also need https://www.easygates.co.uk/product/liftmaster-tx4unif/ - a remote controller at just under £30 . So their solution appears to cost around £100. Checking back with my friend Melanie at Homelink she seems to indicate this remote is NOT required. [:(]

Either way, to install the unit requires wall fixing, a mains power source and routing 2 x 2 core cables into each of the door's original operator units - so around 100 quid's worth of extra expense plus ½ a day's installation work. Question is, do I really need all this hassle or shall I just reach for the blue tack again?

Regards,

Clive




 
Thank you for the information Clive ... having never wanted such a facility I`d stick with the `blue tack` option

I do similar ... taking my garage keys / fob with me
 
Clive

You do have another option.

Do what I do, get out of the car and open the garage door yourself.
Works every time, no hassle. :ROFLMAO:

ATB
David
 
I have a 2013 Hormann motor which is 868mhz which doesn't work with my Homelink. I have the Homelink receiver connected to the motor and power- nothing else, and the Homelink in my 2010 Boxster and 2020 Spyder both work fine. Now my gates..... that is another matter. Nothing works :)
 
Well, against my better judgement, I have now taken the plunge and ordered the LiftMaster PR433-4 HomeLink Universal Receiver - 2CH 433.92 MHz from Easygates for a total cost of £81.60.

I justified it to myself on the basis it will stay in place in the property to hopefully operate the doors in this and subsequent cars with the Homelink system.

Will post again once the kit arrives.

Regards,

Clive

 
The kit arrived in good time from Easygates and contained no particular surprises.

[FONT=verdana,geneva"]
5NBM88B.jpg
[FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"] [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"]It includes the PR433-4 HomeLink Universal Receiver (roughly the size of a cell phone - but twice the depth), a little packet of plastic plugs that fit into the lid to facilitate removal, a little packet of screws and wall plugs, an antenna that screws on the top of the receiver and an AC adapter to convert mains power into 12v DC. There are four mains plug adapters to suit various nation's sockets including a 3 pin square UK plug that simply slides into the receptor. [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"] [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"]The attached cable is around 2m long, so it follows the receiver needs to be mounted within this distance from a power source. The other end of the cable is bare for connection directly into the receiver box, but it can also be extended or shortened as desired. There is also a length of 2 strand signal (speaker-type) wire to connect the electronic hardware. [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"] [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"]Fitting up was relatively straight forward - except it didn't work when I had finished! [&:] There were no obvious markings on the garage door controller box to find, so I had to take it off the wall to discover it was a Teleco TVPRP868N09 system. Relaying this to Easygates technical support, I was told to connect the signal wires into terminals 12 & 13 on the system. Wrong - a large spark ensued, together with the worry I had blown the circuit board. Thankfully, the doors continued to operate from their original remotes, so I heaved a sigh of relief and returned to Easygates for more advice. Initially, they insisted 12 & 13 were correct, but later apologised and told me it should actually be 19 &20. [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"] [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"]
Vhk0ylR.jpg
[FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"]First mistake - wrong connections![FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"] [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"]So with great expectations, I changed the terminals over but was not overjoyed when still nothing happened. I'm now starting to question the lunacy of embarking upon this project, but seeing as I was now 80 quid or so to the detriment, a determination to see it through to the bitter end had set in. [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"] [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"]On the programming front, my nice Homelink lady in Germany had told me to start by pressing buttons 1 & 3 in the car simultaneously, then hold in button 2, then programme the button you wish to deploy. But nothing happened - so this advice rather led me down the wrong path too. In desperation, when all else fails, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS and here it was suggested pressing all 3 buttons simultaneously before setting the learn button on the receiver, then whilst the little red LED is lit, quickly returning to the car and press the selected button 2-3 times in a row until the light goes out, was the way to go.[FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"] [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"]
XzPbq45.jpg
[FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"]There are 2 channels to work double doors independently [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"] [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"]After 2 or 3 goes - hey presto, success! [:)] I can't begin to tell you how excited I was to have finally achieved getting my Homelink to work my garage doors. Yippee, this is the third car that I've had fitted with the system and the first where it has actually operated both gates and doors. I am ecstatic. :ROFLMAO: Third time lucky! It all started off as a bit of a nuisance which I couldn't really bother to sort it out, it then evolved into a challenge and something that needed to be resolved and overcome. Of course, I have lockdown to thank for all this and for solving my problem. :rolleyes: Without it, I'm sure I would have turned my mind on to much more important and rewarding things - like driving for instance! [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"] [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"]It's a wonderful Christmas present to myself. [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"](BTW - the purchase of a separate remote to programme the HomeLink Universal Receiver is NOT required - so that's another piece of mis-info puzzle that can be ditched.) [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"] [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"]Regards,[FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"] [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"]Clive[FONT=verdana,geneva"]
 
Well just to finalise this thread - the installation is at last completed.

Previously I had the kit working and was quite elated at the result, but it's taken a little longer to finish off the permanent installation. In the run up to Christmas, it seems every time I'd climbed up the stepladder, either the phone went or the door bell rang. [:D] Then the holidays got in the way, but it's finally done!

The first thing to do was make a decision where the unit was to be sited. The manual suggests alongside the door and 2m above the floor. But, as the box has 2 channels, I wanted it to operate both doors, so mounted it on the concrete block pier between each of them. There are metal lintels above the openings and, as this might interfere with the wireless signal, I decided to position the box above these some 2.5m above floor level.

It needs a power source, so I interrupted a main supply running along the timber wall plate above the doors and dropped a single 13amp power socket down for the transformer, supplied with the kit, to power up the Homelink. Next, I ran 2 core signal wires in both directions along the top of the wall plate and down to the door control units on each side. I used plastic conduit to run the cable down the walls for speed, protection and neatness.

Needless to say, the power needs to be turned off in order to make all the connections and once I was happy everything was connected up and the terminals tightened, I switched the main power back on, also the switch on the new socket to power up the Homelink.

I had already programmed the vehicle system during the trial run, so it was just a case of pulling the car up in front of the garage and testing out the buttons. With ignition on, button No 2 works one door, button 3 the other door. Button 1 had lost its memory during the reset process, so to get the gates working again, I kept it pressed for around a minute until a slow flashing light appeared. I then had 5 minutes to programme the gate opener. This I did from outside the car by keeping the button on one of the original gate remotes pressed and waving it at the front grill until the car indicators flashed 3 times confirming the code has been accepted.

I'm delighted to report I now have Homelink working on all fronts - entrance gates, and both garage doors. It cost me another £80 on top of the £203 original option (and a few hours works, so whether it's all been worth it or not remains to be seen. :rolleyes:
[FONT=verdana,geneva"] [FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"]
cPlphds.jpg
[FONT=verdana,geneva"][FONT=verdana,geneva"]The Homelink system in situ[FONT=verdana,geneva"]
 
As an electric garage door user for many years I have always spurned the Porsche Garage Door Opener option. I failed to see the point of it when I already have a key fob garage door opener attached to my front door key.

When leaving the house, I press the fob to open the garage door, and after driving out of the garage I press the fob again to close the garage door behind me.

Returning home is the same process in reverse.

My Scots logic is, why pay extra for something I've already got?

Brian
 
Good insight, Brian and, as I've said, the jury is still out.

My setup with its frequency diversity would have entailed carrying 3 separate fobs, so wasn't an entirely attractive nor practical proposition and I am now enjoying a mild sense of achievement at my success having faffed around with this particular problem for several years! [;)]

Hopefully it be of help to others considering going down a similar route because there seems to be little outside assistance available. It's basically an American system with a German distributor and a UK supplier, so did take a bit of sorting out! [:D]

Regards,

Clive


 
Very well written Clive, thank you.

I have included homelink door opener as an option on my ordered 992.
Our system is based on the 433.92 MHZ frequency so I should imagine i will not need the separate receiver.

 

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