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Yellowstuff pads or disc failure after track day?

All very interesting regarding the EBC Yellows, I fitted a set 600 miles ago and have been going through the bedding in process as per EBC, from cold they have been very good on the road but can squeal a bit on light braking, I did the heat cycling after 300 miles (repeated stops from about 60-10 mph) and had smoke pretty much pouring off the fronts, cooled them correctly and now have my 1st track day on 21st July at Snetterton... I also have braided lines, the car will have Endless brake fluid (RF650) by then GT3 cooling ducts to front and modded 997 TT rear brake ducts to rear, I also have GT3 master cylinder fitted. It will be interesting to see how they perform, so far getting mixed reports but more bad than good tbf. I will be taking my old road pads in case they are as bad as reported and I have to swap them out.

 
ralphmusic said:
My point being that it is always a trade off between pad and disk wear. I have fitted larger 911 6 pot calipers and 340mm discs with OEM pads and Castrol SRF brake fluid which works well for me. The pedal feel is a touch soft but never varies and I can over brake getting ABS to cut in (I prefer to stay just below the threshold). I get maybe 5k miles and 6/7 track days from the pads and double that for the discs. I replace pads after 50% wear and clean out the discs' holes after each track day to delay the onset of cracking.

Some good advice in this thread. What's the best way to clean the disc holes Ralph?

 
I use a machine thread screw of a convenient length with a thread diameter just able to pass through the holes. Depending on the style of the wheel, you may need to take the wheels off to easily access the disc.

 
Update..

I've just purchased GT3 brake ducts for cooling, ATE typ200 racing brake fluid, Full set of Goodrich stainless brake hoses. I already have new Brembo discs to fit. I'm just deciding what pads to buy now..

ds1.11 or RS29'.... decisions!

My rear discs and pads look ok, can I mix pads? Front different to rear?

 
I would say so Archie.

When I was competing in hill climbs with my CR I used standard pads on rear, and Brembo High Performance pads on front. Worked perfectly for me.

Braided hoses are well worth fitting. I also used the Goodrich variety.

Brian

 
Perfect timing Brian.. my Goodrich braided hoses arrived today along with ate200 brake fluid and gt3 air scoops.

I haven't purchased pads yet, as I can't decide. I like the sound of the Brembo hp2000's to match with the Brembo discs I have waiting to go on.

I'll need to order by Monday as I have an event the following Saturday.

Archie

 
I "high pressure rinse" jet wash the car and brakes after a track day --- once all the way round and then roll the car forward half a wheel revolution and do it again ...

This gets rid of dust both in the disc holes and in the calliper

I personally like PCCB's and their reduced brake dust and risk of physical damage makes the jet wash a far superior solution.

Incidentally, I always try to do two cooling down laps with the PCCB's --- not always possible if a red or checkered flag ---

 
P.S. They've never faded or overheated --- and mine took 34000 miles on the CR to fall apart, despite severe provocation.

And they don't cost £20k to replace, but they are expensive at around £2k per disc on a CR from various suppliers.

Or you could just fit a set of solid long fibre carbon Surface Transform discs on a GT4 --- cost £10k, and box up the PCCB's for sale time. I have been promised that the ST's will last my life time !!

 
Going a little off topic but a couple of points for someone tracking there car in my opinion.

[ul][*]I always look to get some cooling ducts made for my cars I track. Just a few more deg of cooler air can make a big difference.[*]If upgrading pads do front and rear, not just fronts.[*]Change brake fluid to Castrol SRF. Not cheap but it's the best... and braided lines if available.[*]Lastly a recommendation for pads if you plan to do a few track days in my opinion is Carbotech XP10's[/ul]Thanks Jamie

 
I ran yellow stuff on my 64RS. I never had a problem with them, once i learned to bed them in at the track. Never experience fade with them and never glazed them. But the 64RS had cooling ducts decent racing fluid and decent sized discsa for the application / weight.

They never performed as well as the pagid's of friends cars but they were half the price, so i never expected them to. As has been mentioned cooling, fluid and matching are the key.

Your pads "might" clean up as they looked glazed. Same with discs.

I found this year at Spa with my stock pad / disc shod 996 C2 it was all too easy to overheat and glaze the pads. I suspect cooling ducts and fluid would have helped considerably.

 
Update...

I went out for a test drive last night with my new GT3 air ducts, Brembo discs, Brembo HP2000 pads, Goodridge brake hoses and race brake fluid.

I’ll need to bed them in properly but my initial thoughts are that they stop the car rather well!

I’m doing the Oulton Park PCGB track day in November so that’ll be the proper test.

Archie

 
Hi guys,

Also pay attention to HOW you are braking on track. When you are racing, the key is to hit the brakes hard and late - keeping the brakes "on" for the least time possible. Track days are not racing, but if you are braking relatively "long and soft", then you will put a lot more heat through the brakes. Some people don't even realise they are doing this as - coming from normal road driving - they think or feel like they are braking hard..... but they aren't.

Just one other thing to consider - hope that helps

Kai

 
Another trick for cleaning out the brake dust from disc holes obscured by the wheel spokes ... a wooden kebab stick !

It is flexible and guaranteed not to trouble a carbon disk. Rotated it also gently reams the holes ...

 

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