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Some out there may be aware of the techinical note on Pelican refering to the instrument lighting circuit warning.
For those not aware; Porsche have omitted to protect the circuit that supplies power to the instrument lighting. It is not un-common for 3.2' s to burst into flames from this circuit. Ok; that sounds alittle un-realistic, eh? Well check this out....
Having read the Pelican warning, I purchased an in-line fuse holder ( a whole £2.00), complete with a 5 amp fuse, with a male and female 1/4" spade connectors on each end. This I fitted to the terminal on the rear of the light switch (easy to remove- disconnect battery fisrt). The terminal you want (there are many) has a blue/black wire on it, which is " piggy-backed" with a double (another blue/black). Disconnect the single blue black, connet fuse, reconnect single to other side of fuse. Remove fuse from new holder. Connect battery. Turn lights on. Headlights on but no instrument lights? Lights off and fit fuse. Lights back on; instrument lights on? Thats it!
But guess what?[8|]
Did the above and the new fuse blew?
Replaced it with another. Some time later (weeks), I had reason to remove the speedo. Poking around inside the dash I found 3 burnt wires, 2 of which were melted onto the top of a relay! It was obvious that this damaged had occured a long time ago, but what scared me was the fact that these were still " live" . And guess which circuit this was? Yeah you guessed it; the instrument circuit. Explains why the fuse blew when I fitted the new fuse holder.
I now have to make two circuits redundant (1/instrument and 2/clock/radio/interior) because I cannot tell how far the damage has gone. Clock circuit was also burnt. So now I have started to install a new circuit from fuse 4 on fuse box (section 1), through to the clock, and then junction (chocolate block) off to radio, and interior lights.
So take my advise, spend the £2.00 and fit that fuse![]
For those not aware; Porsche have omitted to protect the circuit that supplies power to the instrument lighting. It is not un-common for 3.2' s to burst into flames from this circuit. Ok; that sounds alittle un-realistic, eh? Well check this out....
Having read the Pelican warning, I purchased an in-line fuse holder ( a whole £2.00), complete with a 5 amp fuse, with a male and female 1/4" spade connectors on each end. This I fitted to the terminal on the rear of the light switch (easy to remove- disconnect battery fisrt). The terminal you want (there are many) has a blue/black wire on it, which is " piggy-backed" with a double (another blue/black). Disconnect the single blue black, connet fuse, reconnect single to other side of fuse. Remove fuse from new holder. Connect battery. Turn lights on. Headlights on but no instrument lights? Lights off and fit fuse. Lights back on; instrument lights on? Thats it!
But guess what?[8|]
Did the above and the new fuse blew?
Replaced it with another. Some time later (weeks), I had reason to remove the speedo. Poking around inside the dash I found 3 burnt wires, 2 of which were melted onto the top of a relay! It was obvious that this damaged had occured a long time ago, but what scared me was the fact that these were still " live" . And guess which circuit this was? Yeah you guessed it; the instrument circuit. Explains why the fuse blew when I fitted the new fuse holder.
I now have to make two circuits redundant (1/instrument and 2/clock/radio/interior) because I cannot tell how far the damage has gone. Clock circuit was also burnt. So now I have started to install a new circuit from fuse 4 on fuse box (section 1), through to the clock, and then junction (chocolate block) off to radio, and interior lights.
So take my advise, spend the £2.00 and fit that fuse![]