Morning all [
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Out of interest, how are you making the 16v work? I did a 16v conversion on a Mk1 many years back, and wrote it up for the CGTI Magazine ('Rabbit'), although I felt it spoiled the car. When I later had another Mk1 I kept the 8v engine in it and tuned it.
The 16v intake can be done with a scirocco 16v inlet manifold (bag of bananas), but these are VERY rare and expensive, or by moving the metering head, which is a bit messy, and involves moving the fuel lines (a fiddle, but not hard.) Or by going to carbs or using a different injection system - which I suspect is what you will do.
Ashley exhausts did an exhaust manifold and downpipe for the conversion, but I struggled to make that clear the front ARB, and it was always slightly messy.
Which gearbox are you going to use? 8v or 16v? You need to buy the clutch to match the gearbox, not the engine, as they have different sized spline shafts in the middle. (I think the 16v one is smaller.) Any clutch will bolt up to any engine - that is not a problem.
Its a
Mk 3 2.0L 16V injected ABF engine and 02a gearbox - standard 150 bhp out of the box.
I am still researching the 4WD route using the 4 motion system (I also have a spare rust free Mk 1 GTI sitting under cover [8D])
It will run on its non immmobilised ECU and with its standard injection (no KR metering head) different cams and can be mapped accordingly. I thought of carbs (my Westy had a 2.0L VX Xe on twin 45`s) using Webers as they do release some extrapower but they are crude and even when you`ve spent hours with jet and tube settings they still overfuel to cover flat spots and may breathe better if you`re lucky but are thirsty. Bike carbs are used now but I will stick to fuel injection this year and see how it goes.
Ashley (and a couple of others) do a 4 into 1 manifold and the Ashley apparently allows a bit of movement via a sleeve so it clears the car properly before welding. I know a very nice man that will make me the exhaust as I`ve removed the boot wheel well and cut off the rear lower valence (less drag) so want it centre exit to confuse people [
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The gearbox comes with the engine. The original box will fit but is a bit marginal for the power and the gearing is very tall. I understand a 1.6 GTI gearbox has the best ratios for acceleration but for now I`ll use the 02a as its a lot stronger and I simply need to change the clutch if its worn but it all bolts together.
The very clever aspect of VAG is the backwards compatibility of parts - hence their popularity. The mk 3 engine front mount still fits the Mk1 and the Mk3 gearbox requires minor alterations to where it bolts to the box but the mount is the same position. Provide some power to the ECU and its loom, fit a `rocco lift pump in place of the tank sender (its on a carb) as the ABF injection doesnt require the high pressure supply to the metering head from the pump as on KR digifant/jet etc and you`re done.
I think the 16v head with the 2.0 bottom end is about the best combination of all the standard parts that you can make. The torque curve is so much better than with the 1.8 16v and the engine breathes so much better than the 8v. Only thing I'd say from my cars is to avoid too much hp chasing after that. My first 2.0 16v was the most extreme using lighter crank, flywheel, ported and polished head, bigger bore inlet manifold, throttle body (cant remember what it comes from but its from another vw car passat maybe?). The car was mapped with very advanced ignition but standard fuel pressure and was VERY revvy, very fast. The car felt very light, sharp and track orientated but on the road it got frustrating because if you dipped the clutch the revs dropped so fast the car struggled to get itself to a stable idle and often stalled. It forced you to do a lot more toe and heeling but the throttle was so responsive that the slightest mistake over revved it and the revvs jumped off the clock!
The ABF is known as the tall block engine. Its 15mm taller than the KR 1.8 and 2.0L and on Mk 1`s the bobble throtty fouls the rear of the bonnet unless you `massage` the mounts [8|] It has a longer stroke and is more torquey and (from similar cars I`ve been in) the torque curve is very good and flat from lower revs. I an looking to have the flywheel lightened possibly but the gearbox is a 20 minute job to remove so I`ll see how it goes first as the car is so light.
I think the 16v head with the 2.0 bottom end is about the best combination of all the standard parts that you can make. The torque curve is so much better than with the 1.8 16v and the engine breathes so much better than the 8v. Only thing I'd say from my cars is to avoid too much hp chasing after that.
True but the ABF is a vast improvement with regard to tuneability, torque in particular and power. 200bhp is more than enough for a lightened mk1 in my personal view as its faster than most things out there but thats not my intention as I want an engine matched to the car that allows smooth progressive full throttle out of corners ie:useable power.
Mind you when you`ve been in a tuned VAG 1.8 turbo engined Mk 1 Golf and seen the turbo charged VR6`s believe me you need to spend totally stupid money to find a car manufacturer that can stay with them but its all in a straight line [
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I`m amazed at the interest on here, thanks [
] and am always amazed as to the interest I get when out an about [8D] People really do love these cars.
I must do a build thread (recovering from hernia op so cant do much at the mo [
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