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Vibrating under load

andy watson

Moderator
Following the lowering of the car I am now experiencing a vibration/judder from what I am sure is the transmission, on Saturday the car was really low and the vibration was there a soon as I accelerated, now that the car has been raised slightly the vibration/judder only happens on hard acceleration.

Your thoughts on were to start looking?
 
Drive shafts, the change in ride hight has caused these 2 run out off there wear spot.

MIT go away after a bit, mine was knocking bad. Got new ones 2 fit. In the mean time I jacked car up via gear box 2 adjuset hand brake and the knocking stop.
 
Let me guess, the vibration starts from just above 30MPH whilst accelerating only? Maybe it starts to peak at 50MPH+? These are the telltale signs of the CV joints getting iffy (on a FWD car the inner CV joints).
 
Chas, you been driving my car? [:D]
Vibration was there from 10/15mph when she was lower, do I need to just replace CV joints or complete drive shafts as Terry suggested (or is it all one unit anyway)

 
The driveshaft itself does not go, it is almost always the CVs that have the play.

IME pattern driveshafts (including the EuroCarParts item made by Q Drive) are a bit of a lottery. Some last while others barely last a couple of years before they start having issues. If it were me I would go with either a driveshaft or both pairs of CVs made by a reputable manufacturer (like GKN).

Before you go and spend your cash however, how much play is present in your driveshafts?. Whilst both driveshafts may be shot previously I have found changing the worst driveshaft tends to make all of the difference (what seems to kill driveshafts IME is poor workmanship, generally ocurring when the gearbox/clutch is being tackled on any car (I.e The CVs are split apart as opposed to being taken out of the gearbox...).
 
Thanks gents,

Nick - your right (for CV's) [:)]

Chas - which way do I check for play, side to side (gearbox to wheel) or front and back (bumper to bumper)?

How easy is it to change the inner and outer CV's as opposed to the whole driveshaft?

 
Id check OPC, but be prepared for a shock, then Id try Bert Gear. Finally, Id avoid ECP like the plague as their prices are very high requiring discount codes. Their Porche parts site is better but still doesnt offer the best price that they have to give. I went through this when I was looking for brake discs, finally settling on www.carparts4less.co.uk, which is still the same company, but with their cheapest prices and far less messing about!
 
http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/c/Porsche_944_2.5_1988/p/car-parts/car-transmission/transmission-parts/cv-joint-kits/?657333130&1&1406bd1db20fd1307b5d1956e770035165c13134&000095

£81:60 ea, but by placing a separate order for each kit required you can benefit from the £10 off over £75 offer, making them £71:60ea delivered. Delivery is supposed to be 2-4 working days, but mine came the next day.
 
Cheers Simon,

Found them earlier today, they work out cheaper for driveshaft's as well but they don't come with grease, new bolts not the end of the world.
OPC are £126 less 10% + VAT each, I didn't enquire about the driveshaft price!

Bert, works out at £276 delivered and £480 for driveshaft

Design 911 £240 delivered

But how difficult are they to change?
 
Changing them isn't hard, but make sure you copy the original set-up with the correct dished washers in the right place and the right orientation. Get the CV grease into all the right places and be sure to 'burp' the gaiters of air to get a long life from them.

Olli mentioned that there are Ford Scorpio CV's which are a direct fit, and about £18 each. (Although I appreciate that telling you this after you have ordered elsewhere isn't terribly helpful! [;)]) I know i paid about £40 per joint around 5 years ago from Max of Frazerpart; he was by far the cheapest supplier back then, and it's a common part for the S2/968 and later turbo models.


Oli.

 

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