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Turbo circulating pump and rad bleeding

craiginuk

craiginuk

Member
Frustrating day with the car today. Bled the cooling system again as I think there is still a bit of air trapped since changing the thermofan switch on radiator. Anyway, tried to run a pipe from the bleed port to the header tank by using a bleed nipple instead of the normal bleed screw which worked well. Pipe ran clear after about 20 mins. Then rmoving the pipe to put the normal bleed screw back in things got a bit messy and hot ie burnt myself. Loads of coolant came spurting out before i could get the screw back in. Could that suck air into the system?

Carried on with the normal bleed screw and it seems to be ok. Then when i got home after a test drive the turbo circulating pump didn't kick in. Should this always run after the car is started irrespective of temperature etc?

Sorry for the grbled post - just a bit fed up with it all as i feel ive made it worse...
 
IIRC the pump should always work no mater how long the engine has been running for,or at least it certainly has done so since my car has been custom loomed, suggest you check the sensor connector. Mine had a habit of getting knocked off due to a connector working loose.

Pete
 
I would suggest "cold-bleeding" before starting the engine : open the bleeding screw and blow in the coolant tank until fluid comes out of the screw then tighten the screw, before stopping blowing in the tank. By then a lot of air will have been pushed out of the system.
Then refill the collant tank, start the engine, park it slightly uphill in order to avoid air being trapped in the cavities in the head and bleed it normally.

The temp sensor for the cooling pump is just on the left of the throttle body. Picture stolen off the web :

turbo+pump+sensor1179585862.jpg
 
Thanks - turbo circulating bump is working for exactly 25 seconds after sturning off. Amazing what coming inside, having a coffee and a bit of a calm down can do!

I will try the cold bleeding thing this evening and then bleed normally again. Only issue i have with using the normal bleed screw is i seem to lose a lot of coolant through the screw. Is there any way to stop it going everywhere?
 
You should not need to remove completely the bleeding screw. Unscrew it a bit and coolant should come out easily, even when you blow in the coolant tank, which obviously won't pressurize the cooling system as much as when it's hot.
 
As TTM states, sensor near throttle body, one more thing regarding bleeding, unsure the car is on level ground and certainly not pointing downhill or you'll never get it bled properly. You shouldn't loose to much coolant with the car positioned as stated above so that the bleed screw is the highest point.

Pete
 
Thanks all!

Seems to have bled fine now. Been for a spirited play and could not get the gauge to go anywhere near halfway. Sitting on the first mark most of the time so all fine.

Circulating pump behaving itself too so panic over..

Craig
 
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