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Torsion bar delete .


ORIGINAL: Fen

I don't have Elephant bushes, but I did fit Weltmeister "mouse" (because of the squeaking) ones. Also done along with loads of other changes and didn't think I could isolate the benefit, but Neil H has the same as me and recently described positivity of the rear end - as absence of previous tendecy to rear-steer I think he described it as - which I have to say with hindsight I agree on, and that in all probability is due to improved bushing. I'd have fitted ER ones if I had known about them in time. I can only assume the TBs add to that as they must share some of the load of resiting torsional forces acting to move the arm against the beam in a plane other than allowed by rotation within the bush.

It is fun to fit them, or more correctly to remove the originals which are pretty much Vulcanised on rather than inserted. I'd recommend doing as I did; remove the rear beam, strip and remove the bushes, paint the parts, reassemble with new bushes and reindexed torsions, spot that the mounting brakets are failing and buy news ones, curse that they cost about 250 notes + vat when you order them (and are Porsche only) and then reassemble. I also replaced the fuel and brake lines with genuine at the time. I'd estimate my rear axle refurb cost in excess of a Grand to do all the "while you're in there" stuff...

Yes was the same for me, which is why with so much already invested in the car making it into a racer makes a lot of sense + I have the knowledge that because everything back aft has come apart in the past couple of years the torsion bar job should be straight forward. I will be going back to standard rear torsion bar bushes for 2 reasons; 1) most obvious is race rules 2) The squeky sounds are the bush binding, I am sure the ride quality is better when they are not making noise, when in mouse mode the rear of the car seems a bit jiggly to me.

Do they make a difference? Well lets just say that after I had them done the front of the car felt sloppy in comparison, it was a complete turn about face as we all know these cars as standard tend to feel fairly tight at the front and sloppy at the back. I fitted a front strut brace and preloaded it and this with solid top mounts balances the car out nicely, my 968 for example feels very loose/spongy in comparison and is a car that has never been ragged (on original front struts after 150K+ miles says the owner must have never gone round corners quickly). I haven't been in a standard S2 in a long time but I bet it would feel like a barge.

 
ORIGINAL: Fen

I also have the Innovate kit and I like it also. like Peter I didn't get the logging side set up before my car went off the road, but the wideband part was good. My advice would be to wire the heater for the sensor through the fuel pump circuit though as with mine (through the ignition) it's a pain to remember to turn it off if the ignition is on but the engine not running (which happens more than you think when you are in the workshop at least) and equally you have to remember to turn it back on when you start the engine. Apparently heater and no engine is bad for the sensor and engine and no heater lets it get a build up of dirt making it less accurate. I had to buy a replacement sensor for mine, probably as the heater burned it out. Just a Bosh part and easy to find, but cost about a ton that I didn't really need/want to have to spend.

Last thing to consider is that (for a Turbo at least) you can't use the OE location as it's not far enough from the header and hence too hot. I can't see why that would be different for an NA car but Peter might be able to tell you different.

I was going to get the bung welded on after the 2-1 joint, I can't think wether the turbo would be any different to the lux. I think I may reconsider and move it back slightly, ive got a crappy bit of pipe with a cut along it to hold two sections of my exhaust together which might make a good location and wouldnt require a permanent bung in my downpipe. Thanks for the tip about using the fuel pump as a power source for the sensor, that makes good sense.
 
Tom.
"This leads me to my second question, how much of a difference did you get from the scivision kit? ".
I fitted a Scivision maf unit to my S2, + i agree with Pete.
Although it did seem to add more power, maybee its just that it drove THAT much better, It pulled like a train....[:D][:D]. Its also sitting in my garage , not being used...!!!!!!???????? [;)][;)],,As i removed it from my S2 before i sold the car...
 
ORIGINAL: barks944

How much for the torsion bars and maf sensor big dave? would it work with a lux?

Tom.
You can have the MAF kit + 968 T bars for £500....Not sure if the MAF kit will work with a lux.!!!!!!! Best to call Promax,/Monkfish as they were the folks that sold the kits at the time...
 
ORIGINAL: Big Dave UK

.....Not sure if the MAF kit will work with a lux......

I would have thought it should as it is only replicating the signal from the barn door. I would be careful running it without a remap though as the increase air flow could over run the injectors.
 
SciVision make two distinct kits for the Lux and the S2, which suggests they aren't the same.

I too have had one on my S2 since they first came out (it was somehow discussed on here if I remember correctly (!)).
Not tried it on a Lux but on an S2 I think it is a worthwhile upgrade.
 

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