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Stripped cam pulley bolt

James0

Member
Evening,
just doing the belts and front seals, going well until I stripped the cam pulley bolt. I'm aware it's a fairly common occurance and I'm tempted to just not change those seals and put it back together.
Anybody done this before? Is it a case of drill it and the rest is easy once the pulley is off, bearing in mind holding the cam still whilst extracting the remains of the bolt will be a challenge at best.

Thanks
 
Grind the head of the bolt off, and once the pulley is out the way and the tension is off the bolt you should be able to undo the remains easily with a pair of pliers or mole grips while holding the cam still, if your a bit concerned about the cam just put the belt back on and will all rotate In the right timing
 
Thanks, a bit of googling suggests the same but an actual person confirming that helps.
I must admit the thought of drilling the bolt makes my teeth itch. If there wasn't a bit of an oil weep from the cam I'd leave it for next time.

Went racing on the push bike today so I'll probably get on it tomorrow when I'm not shattered.
 
Same happened to me when I did the front end reseal - you need some good quality HSS drill bits. Then you need to drill the head off the bolt - it should come off fairly quickly if you have good drill bits. I had to get a right angle drill extension as I couldn't get my drill in-line with the bolt due to the radiator being installed. Don't go too deep - just enough so the head will pop off as you will probably want enough of the shaft visible (with the pulley removed) to get a good hold of with vise grips. You should now be able to remove the pulley and then from everything I read the bolt should come out with finger pressure.... well mine didn't but a good soaking of penetrating fluid over several days and then a good pair of vise grips got the **** out. Don't use any thread lock when you put it back the torque alone will hold it on. Make sure the new bolt is the uprated one (cheese head instead of allen), Porsche updated the bolt so that the higher torque could be applied to stop the bolt coming undone.
 
Well my drill bits can't be that great. Gave up at about 3pm when the right angle drill adapter got insanely hot and ordered some Tungsten Carbide bits. That bolt is harder than old Weetabix.
 
I'd have to ditch the distributor if I got the angle grinder out, something I can do with my ECU but I could do without the extra work for marginal gains.
That or buy a replacement cam pulley.
 
Ohh yes I keep forgetting that the 944 is different to the 968

when my cheese head just stripped out I just ground the head off bought a new bolt and nut, job done


 
Rotate the engine 45 back degrees so no pistons are at TDC, then it doesn't matter how much you turn the camshaft. As I recall this is the workshop manual procedure for removing the camshafts.
 
According to drill bit manufacturers, Tungsten Carbide drill is what you want for hardened steel. I can't say that out loud without a northern accent , badly mimicking the Monty Python Sketch. Working class playwright I think?
 
Well, knife through butter springs to mind. Well worth £10 for one bit.
The remains of the bolt pretty much fell out.

It seems I had more than a weep at the cam seal and it must have mostly been burning off on the exhaust manifold.

 
A correct bit of kit always makes a task easier
I bought some bits from Screwfix that had a pilot drill built in, they were really handy for drilling out flush sheared off bolts

glad you got it out and the job can progress
 

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