Steering judder when braking - help
- Thread starter jason
- Start date
George Elliott
New member
Jason, not sure what my pads are, but the rack, bearings, calipers, are perfect and the disc's are 95% good. I will refresh the surface to remove any deposits/glaze as a precaution.
What are you going for? I also agree its the pads.
Try a deal for two sets if you wish and I will take one.
George
944t
964rs
What are you going for? I also agree its the pads.
Try a deal for two sets if you wish and I will take one.
George
944t
964rs
Matt,
I've been running RS-29 Yellows on my car for the past 18 months without issue. Interestingly I did have some judder problems on my old C2-RSalike using Performance Friction pads, though I put that down to poor bedding-in as much as anything else, as I was eventually able to clear the problem by ever later and harder braking. The Yellows really are noisy - even when up to temp on track, but they last well and I can't fault the braking perfromance.
Jamie
Keith Calder
Member
apart from q at noise "testing"
Keith Calder
Member
sorry, noise finding
jason
Active member
Now thats not funny[
]100 yards from the crossroads where it happened last year I had a huge artic behind me who suddenly started flashing his lights and tooting his horn.....I thought oh $hit please don't tell me there is something wrong...not here....he kept doing it and then turned left at the lights....I realised about 5 mins later he was just saying 'nice car!'...of all the places in all the world.....he did not help my nerves that morning I tell you!![
]Gutted about Spa mate but we will see what the rest of the year brings and I'm sure I'll 'bump' into you soon enough.[
]I have come across brake judder caused by ABS being activated on red hot discs during a track day- happened a few years ago on a tricked up track Escort cossie. Apparently the advice was to disconnect the abs for track use. Discs ended up like Quavers (thats the crisp) and the car was undriveable.
SimonExtreme
New member
Sorry for the late reply, but I have been off air for 2 weeks.
The answer is simple. You need to believe Keith and read the Stoptech article. I have investigated aboiut 50 cases of "warped" brakes on Evo's and I have never seen a warped disk. The problem is actually caused by the disks more than the pads. Small fisions in the disk surface allow the build up of pad material in the surface of the disk. You can see the fisions under a microscope and they vary in size but, more importantly, in distribution around the disk. Where you get a fair number in a small area, it can act like one big one and you get a build up of pad material. If your pada aren't very agressive, doen't "self clean" and the deposits in the fisions acts as a foundation for deposits that sit proud.
The reason some disks have worse problems than others is because the fisions vary. Some disks don't have significant enough ones to cause problems, others do. The majority of OEM disks on Evo's are crap and they usually have thios problem. However, it only comes to light with certain pads. On the Evo, OEM pads cause it, on the Porsche it seems that OEM pads are OK. And guess what. Pagid blue's are a known trouble maker!
In the vast majority of the cases, a change to a more agressive pad is all that is needed and I guess that on a Porsche it is all that is needed. Go through a proper bedding in process and the disks should clean up nicely. As for which pads, it is a matter of personal choice. I have been using RS15 (grey) for 2 yhears and they are outstanding. They have the best stopping power of the whole Pagid range and are very good from cold. Some report a little squeeling in road use, which for some is a problem but I don't mind the little bit I get. They are a whole world better than RS19's. Look at thye different performance here http://www.needforspeed.co.uk/htmlpages/techBRP03.htm
The answer is simple. You need to believe Keith and read the Stoptech article. I have investigated aboiut 50 cases of "warped" brakes on Evo's and I have never seen a warped disk. The problem is actually caused by the disks more than the pads. Small fisions in the disk surface allow the build up of pad material in the surface of the disk. You can see the fisions under a microscope and they vary in size but, more importantly, in distribution around the disk. Where you get a fair number in a small area, it can act like one big one and you get a build up of pad material. If your pada aren't very agressive, doen't "self clean" and the deposits in the fisions acts as a foundation for deposits that sit proud.
The reason some disks have worse problems than others is because the fisions vary. Some disks don't have significant enough ones to cause problems, others do. The majority of OEM disks on Evo's are crap and they usually have thios problem. However, it only comes to light with certain pads. On the Evo, OEM pads cause it, on the Porsche it seems that OEM pads are OK. And guess what. Pagid blue's are a known trouble maker!
In the vast majority of the cases, a change to a more agressive pad is all that is needed and I guess that on a Porsche it is all that is needed. Go through a proper bedding in process and the disks should clean up nicely. As for which pads, it is a matter of personal choice. I have been using RS15 (grey) for 2 yhears and they are outstanding. They have the best stopping power of the whole Pagid range and are very good from cold. Some report a little squeeling in road use, which for some is a problem but I don't mind the little bit I get. They are a whole world better than RS19's. Look at thye different performance here http://www.needforspeed.co.uk/htmlpages/techBRP03.htm
Hacki
Active member
Simon,
I basicly agree. On the other hand, no pad is perfect concerning everything. RS 15 are better from cold than RS 19/29, but harder on the discs and they don´t last as long as the yellows. The yellow RS 19/29 is designed for long distance races. Stopping power of RS 15 is about 20% better, but on an RS or Cup the ABS/tyres is the limit. The RS 19/29 can always make 4 wheel ABS work, so that´s not the point. The aggressive maximum stopping power of the RS 15 might even make braking more difficult with a non ABS car.
So, it´s a personal choice. Both (grey and yellow) don´t cause any judder problems as far as I know.
Rgds
Hacki
I basicly agree. On the other hand, no pad is perfect concerning everything. RS 15 are better from cold than RS 19/29, but harder on the discs and they don´t last as long as the yellows. The yellow RS 19/29 is designed for long distance races. Stopping power of RS 15 is about 20% better, but on an RS or Cup the ABS/tyres is the limit. The RS 19/29 can always make 4 wheel ABS work, so that´s not the point. The aggressive maximum stopping power of the RS 15 might even make braking more difficult with a non ABS car.
So, it´s a personal choice. Both (grey and yellow) don´t cause any judder problems as far as I know.
Rgds
Hacki
964rh
New member
Just on track when the brakes are really hot, get steadily worse throught the day. First 20 laps were fine at Oulton and they were fine for the first few laps of a session.
Simon helped me to the conclusion of pads as well, I should've changed all the discs rather than trying to be a tight b*stard.
Rob
Simon helped me to the conclusion of pads as well, I should've changed all the discs rather than trying to be a tight b*stard.
Rob
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