Static timing setup

[Judder]

Hi everyone

First time doing the static timing on my 356 so a few questions which are probably going to be very simple for those that have done this before!

The workshop manual says to set the static timing at 5o before top dead center, so with my crankshaft rotated to this position, should the middle of the rotor head line up with the indication mark on the distributor that is at about 5 O'clock?

Here's some photos of where I am up to

Crankshaft pulley showing TDC (in between letters O and T) and the indicating notch of where 5o before is (this was made before I owned the car, but measuring with a paper protractor it is pretty close to 5o)



Distributor rotor position when the crankshaft is rotated to 5o BTDC which shows that the middle of the rotor is not aligned with the alignment mark on the distributor itself



Distributor model and side view for reference



So my understanding is that with the crankshaft at 5o BTDC that I should loosen the horizontal bolt to the right of the bottom of the distributor and rotate the body until the indicator mark on the rim matches the center of the rotor arm, but that's the bit I'm not sure of so any advice much appreciated!

Many thanks, Alex

 

[Judder]

BTW I'm doing this as it is coughing and spluttering a bit when running which sounds to me like the timing is out

References so far:

Franny's Porsche 356 Tune-Up Part 2

Dennis Vogel Porsche 356 Tune-Up

https://www.dennisvogel.com/porsche-356/tune-up/

Both are great references

 

[jamescharnley]

If you have no luck here, pop over to DDK forum as that is where a lot of the 356 / 912 owners are

 

[Judder]

Thanks James - funnily enough I registered there this morning as I read a few posts back that that is where others were saying to go. Once I get my account approved I will post this there too. Many thanks

 

[Robin]

I would normally set the static timing as you have done then fine tune it with a stroboscopic timing lamp
Putting a spot of tippex or a white marker on the pulley and the mark on the crankcase will help show the exact timing position.
Tighten the pinch bolt and recheck the timing and if all is ok your timing will be spot on.

 

[Judder]

Thanks Robin - reply much appreciated.

With the crank shaft aligned at 5 degrees BTDC should the rotor arm center align with the mark on the distribitor exactly or be off as it is at the moment?

The bit I'm struggling with is whether the rotor arm mark is for exactly TDC or for 5 degrees before top dead center

Also on the videos for testing the static timing they have the voltage on the multimeter going up at 5 degrees BTDC but my thought process would be that at that time the points open so actually the voltage goes down?

The fun of finding things out via the Internet!

 

[Robin]

If you have the factory crankshaft pulley the 5deg BTDC should align with the edge of the crankcase and the rotor arm should point to the mark in the distributor body which is for ignition of cylinder 1 (RH Front cylinder)
The points gap should be 400 microns or 0,16 inch.
You seem to be having a problem with something that is really quite straightforward and relatively simple and will work even if the timing is not 100% correct. Obviously spot-on will give the best results.
Get it running and drive it! Good luck, Robin

 

[Judder]

If you have the factory crankshaft pulley the 5deg BTDC should align with the edge of the crankcase and the rotor arm should point to the mark in the distributor body which is for ignition of cylinder 1 (RH Front cylinder)

Thanks, that's the only bit I needed clarification on - that the rotor arm should also align with the distributor mark

Points gap I did yesterday with feeler gauges so I can align everything else now and, as you say, get driving