Starting Trouble - URGENT help needed!

[Andrew Cater]

1992 S2 3L - driving me mad as sometimes car won't start. If I attach booster I have it starts every time, battery I thought. Had battery checked and told it was ok but changed anyway for a new one with a higher ratingas the existing was only 55A. Still happening - assumed it must then be starter so changed starter motor - still happening! What on earth could be causing this problem which then disappears if I start up via the booster pack? (Connections at battery and starter motor appear fine)

 

[NorthernBloke]

I had a similar problem on my Mk1 Escort and it turned out to be current drop in the positive lead to the starter - may be worth checking the current or replacing it

 

[Mark_Bennett]

ORIGINAL: NorthernBloke

I had a similar problem on my Mk1 Escort and it turned out to be current drop in the positive lead to the starter - may be worth checking the current or replacing it

Yes - could be a loose contact on the other end of the battery leads too?

 

[Andrew Cater]

connections at battery & motor fine but redone anyway without any joy - as before car will start straight away one time but just click another - driving me mad as I never know if I am going to be in trouble the next time I get in - started parking on hill whenever possible just to be on the safe side now.

 

[barrysmith]

It sounds like its turning over quicker with the extra power from the jump pack,and then starting,

It may be the fly wheel censor when its spinning over fast its reading the censor ,

when its turning over just on the battery its not reading the censor.

remove same and clean, let me know thanks.

 

[millimeep]

Where are you attaching the booster?

If the earth lead from the booster is going elsewhere than the battery -ve terminal, then there could be a bad earth somewhere?

 

[barrysmith]

Now you have said you get a click, its got to the battery if you don't get the click with the power pack .

or its a bad wire/earth,

Ignore the last post ,didn't release its not spinning over.

 

[millimeep]

ORIGINAL: Andrew Cater

connections at battery & motor fine but redone anyway without any joy - as before car will start straight away one time but just click another - driving me mad as I never know if I am going to be in trouble the next time I get in - started parking on hill whenever possible just to be on the safe side now.

If it's doing that, then how about the brushes in the starter motor?

Sounds like they're landing on a 'dead' bit sometimes and not others?

 

[Andrew Cater]

thanks for all the replies - this could be the difference between going to Chatsworth tomorrow or pulling my hair out on this issue! Booster pack is being connected directly to battery terminals for the boost, battery is brand new and 74A anyway so easily crank but will not without the booster unit attached - a "flat spot" on the motor would be there regardless of power supply as far as I would assume and as I said I tried a new starter also without joy. The booster is feeding the same wires as the battery so I feel it must be a connection which is not good but with the extra boost manages to work. checked the obvious - i.e battery and earth plus starter connections and all seem ok. Should I be looking for a possible ignition or relay problem - but I get the click so I discount this - is that a mistake?

 

[barrysmith]

Give my son a ring 01282697413 he's brill on electrics ask for carl , tell him I recommended you talk and as an S2

 

[tref]

OK... here is an obscure one, that occured on an Austin A40 of all things. Would never start on it's own battery, but always would, first time with a slave battery... I can't remember what led me to find it, but the connection in the coil top was "missing" on the HT connection. I can't remember what was there now, but no copper connector or what should have been. I can only presume the spark jumped the gap most of the time, but wouldn't when starting... Obscure I know, but did create the symtoms you describe.

 

[mr brightside]

My S4 had the same problem and turned out that the ECU monitored the battery voltage and refused to start the car if it dropped below 11.8v or something.

It could be that the voltage measurement component in your ECU is jiggered and only responding to extra power input from the booster pack. Can you swap ECUs with a mate in case it has this feature to go wrong? I'm consulting Mr Haynes.

 

[mr brightside]

The manual i've got only covers SOHC engines so can't really be relied upon, still can't see any interlocks though.

 

[mr brightside]

ORIGINAL: Andrew Cater

Should I be looking for a possible ignition or relay problem - but I get the click so I discount this - is that a mistake?

Really starting to clutch at straws here and can't find a PDF of your electrical system online either...is it an automatic? the park switch could be faulty and it won't start unless it thinks park is engaged.

The click you mentioned, where is it coming from? my money at the moment would be on it being a relay on the fuseboard not the starter solenoid which means there still could be something intermittently locking out the signal before it reaches the starter. If you're sure the heavy current side of the system is fine then i'd start looking and signalling and switching circuits.

At this point if it were me and given the absence of electrical drawings i'd go back to basics and follow the wire by fingertip all the way from the ignition column to the starter, you may come up trumps and discover an old immobiliser or something.

 

[Andrew Cater]

Car is manual so that rules out the park switch etc - took a chance and went to Chatsworth and saw David from Strasse (where I got the car) and he and a couple of others were leaning towards it being the starter. The new one I fitted had spade connections which I thought odd at the time - they say they have never seen a 944 starter with these so maybe I was given the wrong one (even though it said 944S2 on the box) I am going to pursue this angle and try another before going any deeper down the wiring/ECU path!

 

[satancom]

I had a similar problem on my land rover. It already had a brand new starter and ignition components but when I tried to start it it would just click 9 times out of 10. Anyhow after fitting a new battery and the thing still not turning over I eventually found the problem

Stupid previous owner had moved the batteries and extended the battery cables by twisting them together and covering them in tape.. The positive lead had become corroded and was dropping the voltage down to 4v when trying to crank! Anyhow bought a new battery cable from www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk and haven't had a problem since!

I would go for battery or eath cable!