Started.... S2 Clutch Replacement

[Tommys86]

update - so I elected to get the bracket off so it's done but can see if you cut the material off the housing towards the block, you'd be able to fit with sensor in position (S2 only one sensor so seems like no problem).

Now what is a problem..... definitely the clutch as I hold it two pieces.... then I look at my flywheel and suggest those cracks aren't pretty features.

In the market for a flywheel - this is the track car so suddenly weighing up (no pun intended) a lighten flywheel?

Trying to think about the root cause - I've looked at it but no expert, these heat cracks? We've had a clutch pedal that sometimes sticks down but drives fine and also have a REOS leak - oil on the surfaces causing issue maybe.

My action list is growing:

- Rebuild the slave cylinder - seal kit and bleed.

- Replace the REOS.

- Check mechanicals of the clutch pedal assembly.

- Replace clutch.

- Machine housing to fit sensor & bracket prior to housing fit.

- New bolts and light weight flywheel?

Is there anything else that should be worth checking? I saw fork and pin earlier they look ok.

Cheers Tom

 

[zcacogp]

That first picture explains the observed symptoms, for sure. Is that an old rubber-centre clutch plate? It looks like it has cush-drive springs in it.

Cracks in the flywheel is not something I've heard of before. It is certainly your excuse to go for a lightened flywheel (I saw ones for an S2 at the London Classic Car Show last year for a couple of hundred quid so they are readily available) but finding the reason for the cracks would be good.

Other things?

- The clutch fork needle roller bearings would benefit from a good splodge of grease.

- Seals - as you said.

- Trivial stuff like exhaust mounts are worth looking at.

- Some people fill the gearbox mount with a stiff goo to stiffen the mount up a little.

- Swap the driveshafts from one side to the other and clean out and re-grease the CV's if you are bored/want to test the wife's new marigolds/are a masochist.

- May be worth replacing that bellhousing sensor if you have doubts about the old one. (Gerry, yes, it reads the pegs on the side of the flywheel to detect TDC - I think there is a single peg missing to give a reference point).

- Have a look at the heat shields around the exhaust and repair/replace if they are looking frilly.

Oli.

 

[Tommys86]

cheers Oli - yeah need a few easier bits, got some new drive shaft boots and one of the heat shields was what I can describe as more floating than fixed. Again not too worried about prettiness and originality (it's a race car) was probably going to use some of the this double sized sticky heat foil wrap stuff to make sure I don't litter the track with bits!

Shaft swap sounds interesting - risk is rounding off bolt potentially but certainly worth a thought.

Trying to lock down a UK lighten flywheel is bit tricky - do you have the name? The ones I've seen are US based and worried il get slammed for postage and import taxes?

Not original clutch it's actually a SACH replacement, the previous person also left the difficult to fit housing bolt at the top.

 

[924Srr27l]

Try TTV in the UK ?

http://ttvracing.com/#

If not, I don't know anywhere else apart from the USA, Fidanza & SPEC

http://www.specclutches.com/705498/

https://www.vividracing.com/catalog/spec-aluminum-flywheel-porsche-944-30l-8991-p-79532.html

http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-944-S2-Lightweight-Flywheel-srch.html

R

 

[Waylander]

for the cost i would replace the needle rollers, and make sure there are no dents in the pin, also check the fork closely for wear at the fork end, it would be a real pain to have to do it all again..........

 

[Cater_Racer]

Just sourced a TTV lightened flywheel 4.6Kgs takes standard Sachs clutch being delivered mid-week next week.

Tried OEM unit £570, or JMB unit £1200, Fidanza £400+USA Shipping and duty , Lindsey racing (wont take standard clutch) so £Megabucks

TTV lightened standard clutch £370 delivered to Peterbro.

 

[edh]

Just sourced a TTV lightened flywheel 4.6Kgs takes standard Sachs clutch being delivered mid-week next week.

Tried OEM unit £570, or JMB unit £1200, Fidanza £400+USA Shipping and duty , Lindsey racing (wont take standard clutch) so £Megabucks

TTV lightened standard clutch £370 delivered to Peterbro.

In some ways I'm glad you didn't post this 2 month ago otherwise I'd have been spending even more on my clutch job ...

 

[zcacogp]

Tom,

So the car is on the third clutch now? That's pretty good going; if you reckon a clutch will last around 100-150,000 miles then there can't be that many with a double-swap in their history.

I was struggling to remember the name of the people who had one of those light flywheels but it sounds like your dad has already solved the problem.

Given that the flywheel will take a week to show up you could use the time to tackle those CV joint bolts. I presume you have removed the inside CV's to get the 'box off, in which case then the access will be easier now for the outer ones than at almost any time in the future!

Glad to hear that the job is going OK. It'll be much better to drive when done; I bet the new clutch is lighter to use, engages drive more crisply and the lighter flywheel will make it sharper on the throttle.

Oli.

 

[Tommys86]

Yeah thanks for the input everyone!

Can wait to put it back together - as you say Oli hopefully it'll transform the gear changes which was akways a bit tricky in this car when trying to do quick shifts.

Are master & slave kits really circa £30 each? It's a couple of o-rings, clip and sleeve?!

Looking at a gearbox short shifter assembly and oil change.... I might if push the boat out and paint housing, tube & box... oh dear Thomas...

 

[edh]

I'd definitely recommend an only944 shifter (front & rear)

Also would fill the gearbox mount with "goo" - you may find your current gearbox mount is shot. This works really well and is dead cheap.

 

[Cater_Racer]

I'd definitely recommend an only944 shifter (front & rear)

Also would fill the gearbox mount with "goo" - you may find your current gearbox mount is shot. This works really well and is dead cheap.

Thanks Ed, I've got one on order.

Gerry

 

[zcacogp]

Tom,

Don't mistake the first rule of sales; the cost of the item for the supplier to buy has no bearing on the price they sell it at; that is determined solely by what someone is willing to pay ....

I'm going to go out on a limb and say I probably wouldn't go with the short-shift kits. Rebuild the existing setup and take it back to standard and see how it works. Then, and only then, think about modifying it. The shift on your black car was very sloppy from what I remember, so I'd put some 968 bushes in the end of the long gear shift road by the gearlever, replace the worn pin on the gearlever with some stainless steel rod and make sure that there is no play in the join near the back of the car where the long gear shift rod connects to the shorter bar on top of the gearbox. This will all cost buttons and should make things hugely much better.

Stay away from the paint. It takes time, costs money and adds weight. And no-one will see it underneath the car. []

Oli.

 

[zcacogp]

Also would fill the gearbox mount with "goo"

What sort of goo would you use?

 

[944Turbo]

Notching the bellhousing on 8V cars is not recommended as this can cause interference between both sensors as they seat close to each other. Porsche issued a service bulletin back in the days explaining this problem, and why a separation was moulded in the bellhousing sometime down the line. It shouldn't be a problem on 16V cars.

Interesting - the one on my coupe is notched and I haven't noticed any issues, what should I look out for and has anyone got a photo of a bellhousing so I can remind myself what I did!

Tony

 

[edh]

Also would fill the gearbox mount with "goo"

What sort of goo would you use?

new goo

 

[edh]

I'll get the details for you tomorrow - if i can find the remains of the stuff in my garage

 

[Tommys86]

Goo sounds like a must.... I'll eagerly await the goo standard.

Sack off the paint - tick!

Also these rebuild kits for slave & master... done some digging and I can buy brand new a pair for £96.... Rebuild kits costing £60 seem like an invitation for me to screw something up, plus if the bores are damaged a rebuild kit is useless... wait, I'm just going to buy these and stop talking...

 

[edh]

Well here's what I used - a 2 part mix, dead easy. I took my crossmember off, fitted the mount & a plastic "dam" either side, then just poured in the mix. (Pics on my thread I think)

 

[edh]

pic here

http://i151.photobucket.c...100833_zps7c7694aa.jpg

 

[AcC8braman]

Hi,

I had a new clutch fitted to my car and got lots of judder when decelerating and changing gear - my transaxle mount was shot. Changed this to the design 911 Semi solid mount but was the same so bought an OEM and its fine now.

As yours will be a track car, don't know if you would be interested in buying the mount as I cannot take it back as its been on the car and they refused.

Let me know

Cheers

Steve