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Some Advice Please Guys & Gals, with this COVID19 and we cant drive

Solar powered battery conditioner works very well, the battery in my 987.2 was eight years old before I had to replace it. Try to place it in a south facing window. Just plugs into the cigarette lighter socket.

If the battery does fail and you’re an AA member then they will come start your car and fit a new one at a reasonable price, and will use a second battery so that all codes and settings etc are maintained. This is a great service, although not appropriate if you have Porsche warranty because then you’ll need a Porsche battery which will not be as good as the one the AA will sell you.

 
I've just had delivered a Optimate 40w panel + controller delivered for my CR as I don't have access to mains power for a C-TEK. The controller monitors the battery to prevent overcharging and also at night stops the panel drawing power back from the battery. I was concerned that due to a recent heart op I may not be able to drive for a while over the winter months that are always tough on batteries.

 
Thanks for the replies guys, my car is a Black Cayman S Sport, I have owned a few cars in my time and I have to say I love this Porsche

 
Hi, just read this about battery care and fitting a new one. I have a 2010 987.2 I am expecting at some point to replace the battery. I think I may still be on the original.

I have used a 7A battery conditioner since I got the car 2 years ago. I put it on via the cigarette lighter if the car is going to be in the garage for any more than a couple of days.

I have no warranty to concern me so not bothered about fitting it myself. My intention was to get a suitable battery from Halfords and change it while the conditioner is still connected and hope that all the ancillaries retained any codes. I would have thought electrons from a Porsche battery, Halfords battery and the mains are the same, and 7A should be enough to hold some codes in the car.

Anyone done this and can confirm that this will/won’t work.

regards Mike

PS did a little research and it’s fine to change a battery with a conditioner connected.

 
Just out of interest - does anyone recommend a specific trickle charger? I’m in the same position though don’t think car will move for approx 3 months. Car is now garaged so I can’t use a solar option. Any recommendations appreciated.

** Guys, thank you for the replies. CTEK it is, I’ll keep an eye in LIDl just in case, whilst fighting the hordes for toilet roll, Parma ham & decent coffee. Stay safe & thank you.

*** update. Purchased the CTEK M5 Per recommendations. Brilliant & easy to use. Battery saved. Car in safe sleep. Thanks for the advice.

 
I have a few vehicles to look after - and swear by the CTEK MSX 5.0 I have a couple of these trickle chargers and they cope with a Mini Cooper daily to a GMC full size pickup with a Cayman in between with no problems - thoroughly recommended.

 
Dean,

I can second Tony's recommendation for the CTEK. I've been using mine (a 3.8) for about 10-years on my 987.2 CS and in general have been satisfied with its performance.

Originally I plugged it into the cigarette socket, but when when it started going intermittent (more likely a car-related problem than the CTEK) I reverted to connecting to the battery terminals using the croc clips supplied and have not experienced problems since then. Unfortunately, with age the contacts on the MODE button are now a bit flaky (a very common problem - check Google) and now I have to press the button a few times to select the desired charging mode. Other than that it's worked faultlessly, but maybe after 10-years continuous use it's time to get a replacement?

Incidentally, quite a few Club members have purchased a cheap battery conditioner from Aldi/Lidl and reckon that they're a perfectly good buy at around £20-£25. As with many items from those supermarkets, they're only available on occasions.

Jeff

 
Motorhead said:
Dean,

I can second Tony's recommendation for the CTEK. I've been using mine (a 3.8) for about 10-years on my 987.2 CS and in general have been satisfied with its performance.

Originally I plugged it into the cigarette socket, but when when it started going intermittent (more likely a car-related problem than the CTEK) I reverted to connecting to the battery terminals using the croc clips supplied and have not experienced problems since then. Unfortunately, with age the contacts on the MODE button are now a bit flaky (a very common problem - check Google) and now I have to press the button a few times to select the desired charging mode. Other than that it's worked faultlessly, but maybe after 10-years continuous use it's time to get a replacement?

Incidentally, quite a few Club members have purchased a cheap battery conditioner from Aldi/Lidl and reckon that they're a perfectly good buy at around £20-£25. As with many items from those supermarkets, they're only available on occasions.

Jeff

I bought a cheap (£25) charger/conditioner from Amazon around a year ago. I have it semi-permanently wired direct to the battery terminals. It has performed perfectly since I got it. If it fails, I'll get another.

 
I am wondering about this too. I don't have power in my garage so can't use a trickle charger, and was wondering how long the battery lasts without driving the car (981 Cayman S). I did luckily manage to get out for a good (100 mile plus) drive last weekend before the shutters came down and I have left the car about 3 weeks before without any issues, which means I am good for the next couple of weeks, but after that, aside from short trips to go to a supermarket (which I am trying to avoid anyway, I live in London and I cannot see social distancing working well where there are so many people) I can't see any other opportunity to drive the car at the moment. I don't want the hassle of getting the AA out to restart it if the battery goes either.

I know leaving it sat at idle for 20 mins is not great for the car but is it OK in the worst case if I sit in the car and rev it to 3000-4000 for a minute then let it idle for a minute etc.? It's such a massive and awful waste of petrol I know (although the tank is about 3/4 full so I can do that for several weeks before running out), but needs must at the moment :-(

Edited to add, I have heard that Caymans have a battery management system which detects low battery power and can put the car into a sort of "hibernation" mode, where most of the electronic systems are shut down and you have to open the door manually with the key. Does anyone know if this is the case and if so how long it will last in that mode before the battery truly gives up the ghost?

 
Hi Caroline,

There are many more knowledgeable people than me on this forum, however - have you not thought of using a solar charger as mentioned on this and other threads? You should still be able to get one online. They are easy to use, sitting on top of the dash and plugged into the cigarette lighter/power socket. Not perfect, but certainly helps.

Would suggest that you do not rev a cold engine to 3 or 4000 revs. Idling until operating temperature is reached shouldn’t do any harm. You could use the Mazda RX-8 trick (to purge fuel from the cylinders) of building revs slowly to around 3000, hold at that for a few seconds then switch off without reducing revs first. What do others think of that?

Gordon.

 
Hi Caroline, has your garage got a window? in which case you could put a solar panel in the window; they usually have a long enough lead to go from a garage window into the car- either into cigarette lighter socket or direct to terminals whichever is most convenient.

The "hibernation" mode where the remote locking is disabled after a time still allows sufficient power loan to flatten the battery in 2-4 weeks dependent upon the state of health of the battery.

If your garage has no windows and there's no power socket then you'll have to run an extension lead from the house I'm afraid or deal with a very flat battery in 3 months time.

 
....... and many of these chargers are suitable for external use - just feed wire over/under/through garage door if you don’t have a window.

 
Wollemi said:
Hi Caroline, has your garage got a window? in which case you could put a solar panel in the window; they usually have a long enough lead to go from a garage window into the car- either into cigarette lighter socket or direct to terminals whichever is most convenient.

The "hibernation" mode where the remote locking is disabled after a time still allows sufficient power loan to flatten the battery in 2-4 weeks dependent upon the state of health of the battery.

If your garage has no windows and there's no power socket then you'll have to run an extension lead from the house I'm afraid or deal with a very flat battery in 3 months time.

Hi Wollemi, no it doesn't have a window, at least not one big enough to receive enough light from the sun to charge - there is a tiny little glass pane at the front but most solar chargers I've seen are bigger than it. It's too far from my flat (I live on the first floor and it's in a communal block a fair distance away) so trailing a socket is out too. I really, really do not want to have to deal with getting a new battery either.

I might just leave the car to idle until it warms up enough then do a bit of light revving. I will probably be able to drive it short distances (a few miles at most) to go to a supermarket but I don't know how vigilant the police will be around here about stopping people who pass the first supermarket they come to (which is one I don't use as I don't like the quality of their fresh food) around here.

 
You could always check Eurocarparts (or similar) for thier cheapest 12v battery and connect that one and take yours back to your flat and charge with a trickle charger. You will damage your engine and sludge it up by running it for short periods.

 
Right, well you could get a power pack. (The type you can connect to your battery to start your car). They are inexpensive and many come with a three pin plug (“13amp socket”). You can then plug in your battery charger and trickle charge. Then you have to take the power pack in and re-charge it when necessary.

 
Caroline,

Although not ideal, you won't damage the engine by letting it idle for a short while to let it reach running temperature - although the cats won't get up to temperature as quickly as if you were driving, affecting emissions. Even at idle the battery will be charging, but you may want to increase the revs slightly for a couple of minutes. Just make sure that you have all the electrics turned off - heater fan, radio, lights, etc.

Unfortunately the transmission, brakes, tyres, etc. won't get a work-out, but if you did it on a weekly basis I'm sure that would be sufficient to avoid draining the battery completely, and having the oil circulating in the engine will keep the moving parts lubricated. Contrary to DWaldie's comment, the high quality Mobil 1 oil in your engine's not going to let it sludge-up if you do this occasionally, even though the oil's unlikely to get up to full operating temperature.

Ralph's suggestion to leave the bonnet open to allow access to the battery is a good idea - just remember to remove the under-bonnet light ... otherwise you'll be introducing an unwanted current drain.!

Jeff

 
Motorhead said:
Caroline,

Although not ideal, you won't damage the engine by letting it idle for a short while to let it reach running temperature - although the cats won't get up to temperature as quickly as if you were driving, affecting emissions. Even at idle the battery will be charging, but you may want to increase the revs slightly for a couple of minutes. Just make sure that you have all the electrics turned off - heater fan, radio, lights, etc.

Unfortunately the transmission, brakes, tyres, etc. won't get a work-out, but if you did it on a weekly basis I'm sure that would be sufficient to avoid draining the battery completely, and having the oil circulating in the engine will keep the moving parts lubricated. Contrary to DWaldie's comment, the high quality Mobil 1 oil in your engine's not going to let it sludge-up if you do this occasionally, even though the oil's unlikely to get up to full operating temperature.

Ralph's suggestion to leave the bonnet open to allow access to the battery is a good idea - just remember to remove the under-bonnet light ... otherwise you'll be introducing an unwanted current drain.!

Jeff
But the engine will still be full of condensation unless the oil gets to full temp. In which case, the water will be circulating with the oil. Better to charge the battery by other means. 300hp is a bit much for a battery charger :)

 
If you lock the car, the under bonnet light goes off...mines on trickle with the bonnet open.

 

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