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Slow electric windows

Joss Walker

New member
Mine are very slow, not an unusual complaint I believe. I have heard of people stripping them, cleaning and re-assembling that has worked miracles. So my query is, how do I clean the motor and what do I lubricate it with? I realise this is all basic stuff so if there is a good resource on the web that will stop my tedious questions please feel free to point me in that direction.

my next one will be about which glue to use to reattach my carpets!

Cheers
 
I would use silicon spray lubricant to the window tracks. As for the motors it is possible to strip them down and there are little access holes to lubricate the gearbox so try snd jsu get some standard grease in there. For what it's worth though if the motors are at fault I would just consider replacing them. They aren't cheap new but you could pick up a second hand one from elliot or Alasdair (sulzeruk) or there are usually one or two on fleabay.
 
It's not so much the motor, but the cogs and gears on the scissors mechanism that the glass is attached to.

With the door card off and the plastic membrane removed you can remove the scissors mechanism by undoing a few bolts. Once out it is very easy to clean all the cogs and bearings of all the accumulated crud and grease (much the same as your seat runners). Use a cleaning solvent, paint thinners or even petrol with a plastic brush and lots of old rags, then apply some fresh grease to all the moving parts and refit to the door.

You can also do this with the scissors in situ, but it's a bit more fiddly to get to every part and very small hands are pretty much a neccessity
 
Hi all
my first post on here, I've been re-building my doors over the past few weeks and in a previous life I designed window mechanisms for a major car company

+1 for degreasing/greasing but also check and clean your grounds slow motors are normally due to volts drop, I beleive (but maybe wrong) the window regulators are grounded in the rear by the rear lights [8|]

also check the alignment .....the small channel as elongated slots that change the angle that the glass sits against the seal to much angle and it will bind...

finally the lower glazing seals are only about £5 from Porsche 2 per door change these and spray with silicone


Ken
 
Ken welcome mate. +1 for the grounds or any grounds for that matter. Worth cleaning all the grounds on a 20+ year old car. When you say the lower window seals do you mean the window scrapers? If you can get them for a fiver then I defo want some. I have never seen any for less than about £25 each.
 
NO I wish...Ive spend a fortune on new seals...these are the small glazing seals that fit inside the door ..they are about 8" long 2 per door[:D]
 
I would use silicon spray lubricant to the window tracks. As for the motors it is possible to strip them down and there are little access holes to lubricate the gearbox so try snd jsu get some standard grease in there.

Never use any silicon. Removing lifter mechanism & motor is a 10-15 minutes job.
What causes the slowness, is the fact all grease on mechanism are changed more or less to glue like stuff. When you have removed mechanism from doors, just remove old grease with screwdriver, knife etc. After that remove the rest with acetone, xylene or some other solvent. When mechanism is clean, jut re-lube them again. I usually use gun grease, what i found from my father's garage. It is special Swedish Army "Vapen Fett" = gun grease. Motors are usually OK. If you like to re- grease motor gear you have to drill the rivets which holds gear cover on it's place. Just clean the gear and re-grease it. Then you must make threads for screws to have a possibility to put gear cover back again. Usually you get fast windows when you just clean windows mechanism and re-lube them.

300e3570.jpg

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ORIGINAL: Diver944

It's not so much the motor, but the cogs and gears on the scissors mechanism that the glass is attached to.

With the door card off and the plastic membrane removed you can remove the scissors mechanism by undoing a few bolts. Once out it is very easy to clean all the cogs and bearings of all the accumulated crud and grease (much the same as your seat runners). Use a cleaning solvent, paint thinners or even petrol with a plastic brush and lots of old rags, then apply some fresh grease to all the moving parts and refit to the door.

You can also do this with the scissors in situ, but it's a bit more fiddly to get to every part and very small hands are pretty much a neccessity


Spot on, worked a treat with my old 944T but may I add that the rubber guides in the window/door aperture harden with age so silicone (white) grease in the rubber channels is a major cause (resistance) to the motor and slows it all down. Try greasing the rubber channels first (even with vaseline which is harmless to experiment with), you`ll be amazed at the difference as the slight curve on the outer rubbers is what `grips` the glass on the way up and the inner (less so) on the way down.

Auto glym trim restorer does soften up the rubber surface as well and stops glass sticking to rubber.
 

ORIGINAL: Kongsodoken
also check the alignment .....the small channel as elongated slots that change the angle that the glass sits against the seal to much angle and it will bind...

finally the lower glazing seals are only about £5 from Porsche 2 per door change these and spray with silicone

Thanks for that - what seals are we actually talking about here? Are they #1 on the following sketch?

982B1BD66559494BA7EF1317A49BC17A.jpg
 
I just blasted a bit of silicone down the side of my drivers window and that seemed to help, but also I thinkt he new battery did as well, it shoots up (relatively) now and makes it all the way to the top.
 
The "lower seals" are 2 and 3 on the diagram.
1 is the sliders in the track alters the angle at which the glass emerges from the door.
 
yes Item 1 are the lower seals, mine were really cruddy so exchanged for new... check them before buying new .....item 8 changes the angle that the glass raises ..I then used lithium grease on all the channels and regulator after a good degreasing
 

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