Sill maintenance

[Veerzigzag]

I am sure this must have been covered but cannot find a relevant posting - any links appreciated!
The subject is routine maintenance of sills - using cavity protectant / wax etc.
There are postings about " the rot within", cutting and welding etc etc, but is there anything about simple routine maintenance of sills that are (hopefully!) not rotten?
I would like to do something now, rather than wait for that dreaded call from the MoT tester.

 

[pauljmcnulty]

Hi Mike,

Bilthamber products seem to get the better reviews than the old-style Waxoyl. Simply wait for a dry, warm day (if we ever get one), or dry and warm the inside of the sills with a hair-dryer. Use something to protect the drain holes along the bottom edge, cable ties are good, and fill with the cavity treatment. Park over a tarp, as it does leak out. Remove the protection from the drain holes and make sure they're clear.

With a longer lance you can get to the whole length from the vent in the door pillar, but there's also access if you remove the carpet, towards the front of the sill section.

Don't forget the front wings as well, remove the liners, clean it all thoroughly and treat. I'd also spray the fuel lines if they're originals, and the strap that secures the cover over the fuel pump. Whilst you're at it, both boot wells can gather water, and particularly under the battery it's hard to see how much rot there is (see Rob's thread [&o]).

Also (and I'm sure I've forgotten something), make sure the front scuttle is clear of leaves. There are drain holes here that block, along the lower edge of the screen.

We had a demo from a guy who owns ruststopshop, who has a product that can be put on when the metal is wet. Seemed very good, but I've not had any feedback from anyone. He also does the electric inhibitors, as used on boats, but again no comments as to how well they work.

 

[Joss Walker]

Cheers Paul - I can't find these access points at the front of the sills, is this because mine is a Cab and has the double floor or is it 'user error'? Can anyone who can be bothered post a really simple description of where these holes are?

Thanks

+1 for the boot wells

 

[pauljmcnulty]

Cabs do have an extra layer in the sills, but if someone has a photo of the rubber bungs that would be good. []

 

[Veerzigzag]

Thanks Paul, that is a superb summary - perhaps you should drop it into the Tech Articles posting?
I'll get the kit ready for that first blazing hot sunny day....

 

[colin944]

ORIGINAL: pauljmcnulty

Hi Mike,

Bilthamber products seem to get the better reviews than the old-style Waxoyl. Simply wait for a dry, warm day (if we ever get one), or dry and warm the inside of the sills with a hair-dryer. Use something to protect the drain holes along the bottom edge, cable ties are good, and fill with the cavity treatment. Park over a tarp, as it does leak out. Remove the protection from the drain holes and make sure they're clear.

With a longer lance you can get to the whole length from the vent in the door pillar, but there's also access if you remove the carpet, towards the front of the sill section.

Don't forget the front wings as well, remove the liners, clean it all thoroughly and treat. I'd also spray the fuel lines if they're originals, and the strap that secures the cover over the fuel pump. Whilst you're at it, both boot wells can gather water, and particularly under the battery it's hard to see how much rot there is (see Rob's thread [&o]).

Also (and I'm sure I've forgotten something), make sure the front scuttle is clear of leaves. There are drain holes here that block, along the lower edge of the screen.

We had a demo from a guy who owns ruststopshop, who has a product that can be put on when the metal is wet. Seemed very good, but I've not had any feedback from anyone. He also does the electric inhibitors, as used on boats, but again no comments as to how well they work.

Spot on Paul.

 

[Veerzigzag]

Just looking into the items suggested: Ruststopshop is an email trader primarily offering ACF-50 which is much used by the classic motorbike brigade to protect their chrome trim and alloy casings over winter.
The relevant Bilt Hamber product seems to be Dynax S50: big 750ml aerosol with a wand. The blurb looks relevant so I plan to try some S50 and see how it goes.
As mentioned above, Ruststopshop also has the electronic rust preventer which allegedly supplies free electrons in a cloud or field around the steel being protected, thus limiting the formation of rust to 20% of the usual rate. Given that rust formation occurs when iron gives up electrons and combines with oxygen to form iron oxide, the "free electron" theory does relate to the process, but is it what actually happens? Sounds like a load of tosh to me, but if any chemist is reading this, perhaps they could comment. If it was that good a rust preventer, wouldn't we all be using it? The ones used in boats have sacrificial electrodes, but this system just produces a magic cloud of free electrons buzzing around.

 

[Lowtimer]

ACF-50 is widely used in aviation too, and I use it on cars. It's very good.
I don't buy the idea of the electron rust preventer. A good dehumidifier, though, is a very valuable asset.