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rusty sills?

L

Lowtimer

New member
I've seen a lot worse, based on those pics. I suspect that there's nothing showing in the outside, and if you can give them a good "screwdriver test" all the way along the outside without finding any holes, and if you then get the sills flooded with Waxoyl / Bilt Hamber / whatever as a matter of urgency, you will get a good few years out of those before you need to get any serious replacement work done.
 
Afternoon
Now I've got the hang of this photobucket stuff I'd be grateful for some opinions on the state of my sills please?

This first one is driver side

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second one is, wait for it...the passenger side

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many thanks in advance......with fingers crossed.
 
Yeah, wot he sed ^^^^^ Sure, there is some surface rust but they look to be pretty sound. You can never be 100% sure but if that was my car I'd be putting a good coating of Bilt Hamber along there and keeping my fingers crossed. (Bilt Hamber seems to be the rust prevention treatment of choice, but it is a notable brown colour and once you have applied it inside a sill you can't see what's happening underneath it in years to come. It's still the one I use tho'.) Oli.
 
I know Steve & of course I trust you, second, third and fourth opinion never hurts though. Now just need precise instructions what to do (apart from keeping fingers crossed,that's easy), how much I need etc, or alternatively someone local who knows what theyre doing to give me a hand! Pretty please.
 
It's very easy. Don't set aside an afternoon to do it as you will find yourself bored after an hour or so ... Buy a tin of this: http://www.bilthamber.com/cavity-waxes/dynax-s50 Jack the car up. Connect up the lance that comes with it (long bit of flexible plastic tube) and poke it in at the front end of the sill. Squirt the aerosol while slowly withdrawing the lance so that a good coating of the stuff goes all over the inside of the sill. If there is blown gloop dripping out of each of the drain holes under the sill then you are doing it right. [;)] (Use a cocktail stick to poke these drain holes clear when you are done - you don't want to block them with the wax.) Push the lance into the back of the sill and repeat. Move to the other side of the car and do the same there. Re-attach the plastic sill trims if you removed them to get the lance in. Wash hands. Open beer and drink deeply. That's about it! Oli.
 
Thanks for the summary Oli, like many of us I am standing by with my cans of Dynax S-50 waiting for the sun to shine consistently for a while here in the Fens - looks like this coming weekend might be the time to do it....
 
Just my iPhone, held upside down with thumb and forefinger. Hold the phone in the hole with right hand, press shutter with left hand, then lower phone immediately. The delay while it focuses allows you to do all this, but you have to move quickly and most importantly concentrate on not dropping phone. How many 750 ml cans will it take? One each side? For the sake of 12 quid a can don't want to underdo it. Here's an embarrassing question, I've never jacked up a car, any tips? Are there good/bad places to do it on a 944?
 
Having very little knowledge in this area other than I am about to do my sills would it not be better to apply rust converter first and then the cavity wax I have used fe123 own my car and it is really good stuff and they recommend it for cavity injection prior to wax.....this was the route I was going to take Www.rust.co.uk
 
Give Dennis at the rust stop shop a call. I am currently using a combination of corrosion block (which has marine uses and is much much much easier to use than any gloopy stuff) and a CAT III electronic rust inhibitor. I have also used some oxycon which you paint onto any oxidised areas before applying paint. I have to say the results are good so far. Fingers crossed! Stuart
 
Always tricky when you have no idea what you're doing and are presented with options. Dynax s50 has great reviews on different sites so likely that's the route for me. Is anyone in Leeds doing this soon so we can help each other! (I make a cracking brew)
 
You don't want a cavity wax, you need to use a BILT HAMBER product called Hydrate 80 first, you need to chemically kill the rust and stabilise it rather than just lay a cavity wax over the top of it, wax will not stop that rust in any way. http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-treatments/hydrate-80 Cheers, Paul
 
ORIGINAL: PAUL RUDDY You don't want a cavity wax, you need to use a BILT HAMBER product called Hydrate 80 first, you need to chemically kill the rust and stabilise it rather than just lay a cavity wax over the top of it, wax will not stop that rust in any way. http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-treatments/hydrate-80 Cheers, Paul
Click to expand...
totally agree makes logical sense to kill the rust first[:)] the instructions for hydrate80 call for degreasing and washing with water first this could be a problem inside the sills FE123 does not require this practical classics test had hydrate80 as best but fe123 was easier to use
 
This is such a timely and comprehensive view of the work required - many thanks for the comments and the tip on using an iPhone.
 
ORIGINAL: Kongsodoken
ORIGINAL: PAUL RUDDY You don't want a cavity wax, you need to use a BILT HAMBER product called Hydrate 80 first, you need to chemically kill the rust and stabilise it rather than just lay a cavity wax over the top of it, wax will not stop that rust in any way. http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-treatments/hydrate-80 Cheers, Paul
Click to expand...
totally agree makes logical sense to kill the rust first[:)] the instructions for hydrate80 call for degreasing and washing with water first this could be a problem inside the sills FE123 does not require this practical classics test had hydrate80 as best but fe123 was easier to use
Click to expand...
I believe that Hydrate80 has rust-killing capabilities of it's own. I know that Waxoyl did and know that Hydrate80 is several leagues better than that. If you are looking for the simplest solution then pour some old engine oil into the sills; that'll stop the rust for a reasonable while and be very easy and free to do ... Oli.
 
Your reasoning makes good sense to me ken and having seen your attention to detail in other areas I doubt this is an issue you'd take lightly. Will have a look at your recommended product on Internet tonight Regards
 
Hi,haven't got round to this yet. Rather than jack the car up can I just do it on a slope? Does that have the same effect? My drives about a 30 degree incline. Regards
 
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