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Rob's 944S track car thread

rsmith944

New member
Right gents and ladies,

Thought it would be much easier to start a thread about this project instead of loads of separate threads and ask questions in here from you lovely knowledgeable people who have been very helpful so far.

So the story so far in synopsis - Bought 944S, hovered on whether to use it as a track base or get a race car straight off or S2 for track car.

So we've decided to go ahead with the S (our first track day in it is Monday 1st June after all!) and so this weekend I've been doing:

- Transmission fluid change (More here)
- Took it to Buckley tyres for four wheel alignment
- Stripped out a load of weight

Weight lost total is 44.9kg which has made it feel better if a lot noisier. Only got half way too so think 100kg is possible. The geometry they could only do the front in time as Kev there said the rears are a pain to free - is that true? Going to see if I can free it soon any tips?

Also be really interested in people's views on what a good track set up is? I know it's personal but are there general rules? Like negative camber at the front?

Here's the printout:

944geometry.jpg


You can read the whole write up here: Part 3

Any tips at all are greatly appreciated as are all your comments. Next up are pads, brake fluid and sticky tyres before the first track day.
 
The geometry they could only do the front in time as Kev there said the rears are a pain to free - is that true? Going to see if I can free it soon any tips?

Rob,
Have a read of Andy's thread.

http://www.porscheclubgbforum.com/tm.asp?m=621466&mpage=1&key=geometryò—¹²

To get the bolts undone, I would recommend an Impact wrench, some PlusGas (or Wurth Rostoff) and plenty of patience [8|] .

Or alternatively, once you have had chance to get used to the car and sort out any worn parts, you could pay a visit to Chris at Center Gravity 01827 718800
- a very helpful chap with lots of experience setting-up these types of cars.

For what it's worth, I run 2° of negative at the front and rear, zero toe and plenty of caster 3-4°. My usage is around 50/50 road/track. I'm sure the racers probably go more extreme than this.
- After 5 track days, my Khumo V70s have worn nice and evenly.
- On the road the steering is, if anything, a little light around the straight-ahead. A rogue sneeze in the outside lane of the M40 can lead to the car ending up in lane 1. But it corners very nicely indeed.
 
Anybody looking for some track wheels (17 inch cup one replicas in gunmetal painted finish-a few chips and marks) please see the 944 and 968 spare parts section, can be sold with some superb value Michelin cup track tyres in good used nick for a little extra.
Sorry for HJ[:D]
 
Thanks for the replies guys, going to go with some 15" inch wheels 205/50s - car not fast enough for 17s! Will check out that thread
 
Hi guys,

Bit of a set back today as the cambelt was being done and quite a lot of the front seals are leaking so need to get hold of a front seal set and some new idlers and tensioners as they were covered in oil.

Found a front seal kit from JMG down south so hopefully can get them delivered faster than Germant can - first track day June 1st!

One question I'd love your feedback from:

http://www.9tuning.com/944.asp

Are the chips good / worth it - anyone know these guys?
 
Quick update at the blog here:

http://www.performancecarblog.co.uk/porsche-944-s-track-day-1/

First track day update and corner by corner breakdown by a novice of Oulton Park. Porsche had to be retired after only a few laps though as it had a big clonking coming from the rear that everyone seems to agree is the driveshafts giving up the ghost.

Can anyone advise on how to fit Cobra seats (Monaco S) into the 944? Fixed seating position no need for adjustable runners. Will these work?

Cobra Steel Side Mounts
 
Theyll mount the seat, yes. The tricky bit is mounting the side mounts to the car..... Your two options both involve welding, in order to do it properly. You can eother weld reinforcement to the floor and bolt through, or you can weld 2x transversebox section pieces across between the tunnel and the sill and mount to those. The latter is more involved, but itll give you a reassuring extra degree of side intrusion protection too, as well as being a good deal more secure.


Simon
 
Thanks Simon. Won't the box sections add to the height though? I've read a fair bit here about not using adjustables because they don't give enough helmet height.

Is there a better way than using the mounts I linked to? Any way without welding? Only reason I ask is that I'd like to do it myself but I'm no welder!
 
Theres definitely no other suitable way to mount a side-mounting seat, other than with the correct mount. If welding (or rather, getting someone else to weld well for a sensible price) wasnt an option, then Id consider cutting a square of 1mm/16Ga steel 50mm min. larger than the moutning holes on the side mount that youre using; and using this to reinforce the underside of the cabin floor. Use good quality large washers to further spread the load (along with high tensile bolts) and itll be strong enough. The trick will be making the mounts fit the seat and then fit the floor, where youre comfortable and in a position that will suit the reinforcing on the outside.....

You make a very good point about height. My current (and currently being dismantled) car uses a reinforced floor piece which has been bolted through. For my new car Ive been considering the same issue. A side-mounted seat will be far lower to the ground; but itd be easy to lose all of the advantage that youve gained by using an overly-high, but certainly stronger transverse frame. By using a lower profile type side-mount you save over an inch in height but it can be difficult to work out exactly where your head will be, without trial fitting the seat and mocking up the different fittings.

Every inch counts where youre 6' 3"..... [:D]


Simon
 
Might be a daft question but could I not just modify the side mount items bought to suit the current mount points in the car? That way I know they are strong and good for the job?
 
A windy gun will sort the rear bolts out to enable adjustment, get some copperslip on there when undone.
 
If you can find side-mounts which will fit the existing mountings (whilst fitted to the seats) then I dont see why not. This is presuming that your captive nuts in the floor are in good condition too, of course.

The mounts always come pre-drilled in my experience, so the problem will be finding a pair which will match the existing six (or four, I suppose) seat mounting captives in the floor. I wouldnt entertain DIY metalwork to make them 'fit' though. If thats the case then Id suggest trying to locate the mounts along the floor reinforcement and then drilling though both layers; then bolting through and using 50+mm spacer plates and good quality HT bolts with washers.

This was what I did in my old car and its good enough for track days and such; but not any sort of competition, in my opinion (although itll probably pass the scrutes).

Simon
 
Just had a better look at the seats, turns out they are bottom mount not side mount so this is a bit of a silly conversation although I've learnt a lot about side mounts. I guess all the same applies though or is a kit only thing for bottom mounts?
 
Quick update just spent the past two hours transferring the runners off the 944 seat onto the Cobra bottom plates. That was a bit of a giggle but in the end I think everything's pretty straight. Only two issues:

- Runners are exactly same spacing as original seat on one end, but out by 3/8ths an inch on the other end. I hope that 1.5/8ths is an OK tolerance and the bolts into the car floor still go through OK as there's not adjustment to be had short of some filing.

- Mechanism to adjust seat travel only fires one side as there's not enough travel in the mechanism to clear the other side. Once seating position is sorted though, shouldn't be an issue.

Will update here when I try fitting it tomorrow.
 
Arrrg, bad news Rob [&o]

Why can't you make Silverstone on Monday, is the steering damaged too? Looks like panel damage only to me (trying to be positive I'd say its time to hurry forward the lightweight fibreglass wings [;)] )
 
Bugger, assuming the suspension is ok, take the plastic inner wing out and hammer the dent out so it wont rub until you can get it fixed.
The wings bolt on so you may even be lucky and get one the right colour from a breakers.
 
I'm hoping (for your sake) it's as easy a repair as it looks? You should be able to pick one up via Ebay for maybe £50-£75? Be cautious about getting it delivered. I've had two bad experiences.... Good luck.

(Note; at least one on Ebay just now).
 

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