Replacing 85 turbo brake lines
- Thread starter ukmastiff
- Start date
chrisg
Member
When you say brake lines, are you talking about the hard lines that run along the rear trailing arm or the flexi lines that pivot with the axle ?
Whether its the former or the lines that come off the t-junction from front to back then split to either side of the car (one goes over the torque tube to the passenger side) these can simply be replaced with copper-nickel pipe bent into shape - standard metric fittings with an 11mm nut.
With ref. to the flex pipes - two options 1. OPC/ aftermarket suppliers (GSF/ Eurocarparts etc) for standard rubber pipes. 2. Goodridge etc for braided stainless steel.
yours
Chris
Whether its the former or the lines that come off the t-junction from front to back then split to either side of the car (one goes over the torque tube to the passenger side) these can simply be replaced with copper-nickel pipe bent into shape - standard metric fittings with an 11mm nut.
With ref. to the flex pipes - two options 1. OPC/ aftermarket suppliers (GSF/ Eurocarparts etc) for standard rubber pipes. 2. Goodridge etc for braided stainless steel.
yours
Chris
'Coating peeled off' would suggest it's the hard lines going the length of the car. In which case buy yourself a long roll of kunifer and some end fittings, and have a merry Saturday with a brake pipe flaring tool and a tape measure. I find making brake pipes quite satisfying, although they are never as neat when fitted as the original ones (you never get perfectly straight lines and proper curves, but that's the nature of them being made by hand.)
Oli.
Oli.
chrisg
Member
Oli
the tape measure bit must be the engineer in you coming out ! I've never ever used a tape measure for brake lines - always just use a guestimate based on the rusty old steel pipe removed, whether its on the Porsche or most recently on the Beemer.
You're spot on regarding the satisfaction factor - very pleasing when you've fitted a nice set of shiny (non-rusty) kunifer, hand made pipes !
Mas - just a point for you, if you're going down this route, take the advice my brother gave me, when you try to remove the old hard lines, don't mess about with an 'open' brake spanner, cut the steel line(s) off at the fitment. Then clean thoroughly the 11mm head, soak in penetrating fluid for several hours then use a six sided spanner or socket to remove the old union.
Where possible I would also advice application of heat as well (not recommended near the fuel tank....). Remember the unions on the brake lines won't have been apart for several decades and will be well seized. Undoubtedly the hardest one(s) to remove will be the three way junction just near the rear axle. I found that when you start putting force on the two sides that split the whole thing pivots and bends on the shank holding it onto the chassis.
BTW if you'd like the old steel lines from my car to use as templates before you strip your lines out, let me know as I have them kicking around.
Yours
Chris
the tape measure bit must be the engineer in you coming out ! I've never ever used a tape measure for brake lines - always just use a guestimate based on the rusty old steel pipe removed, whether its on the Porsche or most recently on the Beemer.
You're spot on regarding the satisfaction factor - very pleasing when you've fitted a nice set of shiny (non-rusty) kunifer, hand made pipes !
Mas - just a point for you, if you're going down this route, take the advice my brother gave me, when you try to remove the old hard lines, don't mess about with an 'open' brake spanner, cut the steel line(s) off at the fitment. Then clean thoroughly the 11mm head, soak in penetrating fluid for several hours then use a six sided spanner or socket to remove the old union.
Where possible I would also advice application of heat as well (not recommended near the fuel tank....). Remember the unions on the brake lines won't have been apart for several decades and will be well seized. Undoubtedly the hardest one(s) to remove will be the three way junction just near the rear axle. I found that when you start putting force on the two sides that split the whole thing pivots and bends on the shank holding it onto the chassis.
BTW if you'd like the old steel lines from my car to use as templates before you strip your lines out, let me know as I have them kicking around.
Yours
Chris
Was just about to post what Graham had said about chopping the old ones off and using them as a template, along with a good dose of releasing fluid and a ring spanner, pipe, fittings and a flaring tool should run out at £60 odd from a motor factors.
Could be a cheap but time consuming diy job.
Could be a cheap but time consuming diy job.
ChasR
New member
You could do the iffy thing here and sand the line down gently and coat it with some grease in between your fingers 
.
Joking aside, Brake Pipe spanners are invaluable for such a job IMO. If you decide to go for it yourself, do not buy the cheapest crimping tool. Besides not always doing a decent flare to seal, they can break quite easily. A tool for around £50 tends to get some success.
If you do need to get flexi pipes I would get the HEL branded lines over the Goodridge items. The latter with stainless fitting have great ends to fit onto the hard line which IMO are invaluable for fitting on some brake lines (I.E positioning).
.Joking aside, Brake Pipe spanners are invaluable for such a job IMO. If you decide to go for it yourself, do not buy the cheapest crimping tool. Besides not always doing a decent flare to seal, they can break quite easily. A tool for around £50 tends to get some success.
If you do need to get flexi pipes I would get the HEL branded lines over the Goodridge items. The latter with stainless fitting have great ends to fit onto the hard line which IMO are invaluable for fitting on some brake lines (I.E positioning).
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