rear hatch opening problem update - help needed.

[eddieedmo]

Checked the microswitch on the rear hatch lock and seems ok continuity switches as expected. So it isn't that , thought it could be the alarm on the lock but the alarm is functioning as it should.So I am now in need of ideas please as to what is blowing nos 1 fuse when the key is turned to open the hatch , the in car switch still works ok and opens the hatch.

Thanks

Nick [][

 

[JamesO]

I don't have the diagrams (on a hard drive elsewhere) to hand but I assume that the keyswitch applies 12v to the motor when activated. I would start by unplugging the motor and seeing if the fuse still blows.
I'm not sure but would have thought the microswitch operates a relay, wether thats in the motor part itself (hence unplugging it) or at the fuse box I dont know, but maybe the coil in the relay has shorted out.
Failing that the cable after the switch has a short to ground, best thing to do would be to download the diagrams.

 

[eddieedmo]

thanks for replying , I will try isolating the actual motor and see what happens.I have some diagrams but my ability to read and understand electric circuits is not good.If a bad relay in the circuit somewhere would the in car switch have a seperate one as that switch still operates the motor.

Nick

 

[Lowtimer]

I had all this apart in my own car in the Spring, including having the whole motor apart, giving it a good clean-up and checking the state of the brushes, and I don't remember there being any relays - nor would I expect there to be a relay on such a low current application. And you can't hear one operating, either - at least, not on my car.

A short somewhere seems likeliest at the present stage of the investigation. I commend the idea of unplugging the motor and seeing whether the action of the microswitch itself blows the fuse. (Better get a 10-pack in...)

Obviously the motor and linkage must be OK in themselves, or the system would not work properly when triggered by the switch inside the car.

I am away at the moment but back in Northallerton on Friday and then around over Christmas. If it helps, I'll come over with mine at some point - you're only just down the road, and it may help to have another apparently similar car to compare with.

 

[JamesO]

It's possible that the two switches have separate relays/circuits as the early oval dash cars have a mechanical hatch lock and front electric release switch.

Oops too slow

 

[eddieedmo]

That is a kind offer and would be good to meet up.10 pack seems a good idea !
Will investigate further ,when the rain stops , and try and understand the wiring diagrams but they are a bit like latin and pure maths were for me at school a long long time ago !
Nick []

 

[JamesO]

Ok just found the diagrams. It is a very fairly simple double pole circuit. There are no extra relays. The front switch picks up 12v from fuse number one and the boot microswitch picks up 12v from the roof control loom in the boot. They are wired together double pole a bit like a house lighting circuit operating the actuator. So as above, most likely a short in the wiring

 

[eddieedmo]

Thanks for coming back about the circuit . But still puzzled due to my ignorance ,if the no 1 fuse is blown and the in car switch gets 12v from it wouldn't it stop working ?
As it is it still works with no 1 fuse blown.

Nick

 

[JamesO]

ORIGINAL: eddieedmo

Thanks for coming back about the circuit . But still puzzled due to my ignorance ,if the no 1 fuse is blown and the in car switch gets 12v from it wouldn't it stop working ?
As it is it still works with no 1 fuse blown.

Nick

Unless I've misread the drawing, It shouldn't work. Could it be picking up a feed from the alarm? To make my alarm release the hatch in the old 89 lux I had to fit a relay.

Did the key work before and after the alarm was fitted?

 

[eddieedmo]

The alarm system is the one which came with the car , no changes to it.It is operated by the keys not a seperate alarm fob.Unlocking the hatch with the key would deactivate the alarm system.

Nick