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Promax Level 2 Chips and boost levels

scam75

scam75

Well-known member
Evening guys

I am currently running promax chips, level 2. There are 3 maps you can choose, I am currently on map 3, 18psi and dpw. The other maps are for standard wg. I am getting my turbo rebuilt currently, K26/8. The rebuild guy is putting a slightly bigger cold side on it as the standard one is hard to get. Anyway, my question is, if I want to set it up for say 20psi am I going to need new chips or a remap? I will be installing 55lb injectors at the same time.

Thanks in advance

Stuart
 
Stuart,
on the basis that the standard ProMax chips are set for the std injectors, my guess is you need new chips to cater for the 55lb injectors. The std chips are intended for 1.2 bar (18psi) if i recall correctly, so 20 psi is slightly high.
I had the ProMax L2 set up on a previous car, its good imo.
hope this helps
George
944t
 
The Promax chipset has dipswitch settings to allow for 55 lb injectors. I have 55 lb injectors, DPW etc on mine.
But I would set max of +18 lb boost, 1.2 bar, rather than +20 lb.
If you want higher boost than that you will need some sort of further enrichment, probably best done via a custom remap.
 
Surely Promax can advise you. If not, ask Jon at JMG, as didn't Promax just copy his chips?[;)]
 

ORIGINAL: Ewan

Surely Promax can advise you. If not, ask Jon at JMG, as didn't Promax just copy his chips?[;)]
Click to expand...
Don't think ProMax copied any chips from JMG Ewan.

Stuart, at one point, there were some ProMax chips with maps for 20psi in addition to 18psi. Check your original instructions to see what you have.
 
Thanks guys. I have spoken to Andy at Promax, just wanted to see what you knowledgeable lot had to say! Can't have too many opinions as far as I'm concerned and there is lots of opinion and experience amonst you all!!

Anyway, not getting into a silly debate about chips being copied, I have always found the Promax guys very helpful and great to deal with. Andy has advised that I should try running it at 20psi and keep an eye on fuelling and performance. It may well be fine, if not I will need a custom re-map. But to be honest I will just wind it back to 18psi if that's the case.

GPF - Not sure if I have a 20psi map, certainly don't remember anything about it and Andy never mentioned it. I got my chips from someone and they didn't come with instructions, I have the Promax set-up sheets which Andy sent me and they only reference the 3 maps. 1 is 15psi standard wg, 2 is 18psi standard wg and 3 is 18psi dpw.

Cheers

Stuart
 

ORIGINAL: scam75
GPF - Not sure if I have a 20psi map, certainly don't remember anything about it and Andy never mentioned it. I got my chips from someone and they didn't come with instructions, I have the Promax set-up sheets which Andy sent me and they only reference the 3 maps. 1 is 15psi standard wg, 2 is 18psi standard wg and 3 is 18psi dpw.
Click to expand...

There were quite a few different versions over the years - some of which probably didn't last long.

eg - the ProMax instructions I have quote 18 psi on map 1, 20 psi on map 2 (default), and 22 psi on map 3.

These are dated January 2005.

As Andy says, check the AFR with your wideband - and pay close attention to the first WOT run!

Trouble is, that won't tell you what is happening with ignition timing though...
 
Cheers Graham.

I may have to open up my DME to identify the chips then. They did come in their little box, I will check tonight and see if it has any version numbers or dates on it.

I will run it up at 18psi first, then 19 and finally 20 and compare AFR data keeping a close eye at first use of WOT on each run.

Won't be doing this for a while yet as will have to run in my engine when it's back together!

Cheers

Stuart
 
Hi All,

Increased boost generally requires the ignition advance to be pulled back a bit. The limitation beyond 18 psi of boost is the exhaust system and the turbo x-over pipe; hence I would recommend 18 psi as a maximum unless you have a less restrictive exhaust. 20 psi is likely to still achieve correct fuelling with ProMAX L2 chips.

All chips sold by ProMAX were developed by ProMAX.

If anybody needs further info, please contact the office. The contact web page is http://www.promaxmotorsport.co.uk/contactus.aspx

Regards,
Andrew
 
Hi Andy

Thanks for that. Would I be right in saying that with my stock exhaust I will see no power gains going up to 20psi then, and would be as well sticking at 18psi?

Thanks

Stuart
 
Ditto on a road car....

Stuart, if you wind up the boost you will notice an exponential difference, and so will the head gasket and crown wheel...

..but may be short lived

George
944t
 

ORIGINAL: George Elliott

Ditto on a road car....

Stuart, if you wind up the boost you will notice an exponential difference, and so will the head gasket and crown wheel...

..but may be short lived

George
944t
Click to expand...

Yeah but I'm only talking about 2psi above 18, not going mental, and only because I'm getting a bigger cold side on my turbo! Surely if the fuelling is ok then everything else should be ok circa 330bhp? I will have a brand new hg and piston rings run in before I think about doing this.

Stuart
 
I was told that head gastics fail due to detention, knock and a result off in balanced fuelling. If this is all working as it should new head gastic shouldnt go ?? Have I been mislead?
 
Detonation (!) will kill an engine/and or head gasket regardless of how old it is. Incorrect fuelling can cause this. The KLR has knock protection does it not? However incorrect fuelling can get you in an instant. That is why all modded turbos need an AFR gauge and constant monitoring, especially at WOT!

Stuart
 
Stuart,
I think you will find the OE Knock protection is disabled in any aftermarket chip set.

Its all relative, 18psi is mental compared to standard. Saying that, I would agree many headline power figures are at 21psi (on a cool evening maybe?)

What I noticed is the delivery becomes so savage at higher pressures, that for daily duties it becomes tiring to have 70leptons wheel spin on a slightly damp road. If the road is dry, then the diff becomes noisy, so 1.2 bar is my setting.

I'm not saying it will put a leg out of bed on day one, but its the edge of safe imo

George
944t
 
Cheers George. I think I will stick to 18psi for all intents and purposes the more I think about this. At least I know for certain things shouldn't go pop! Might flick it up on the dyno though to 20psi and see what difference it makes to bhp.

Stuart
 

ORIGINAL: George Elliott
I think you will find the OE Knock protection is disabled in any aftermarket chip set.
Click to expand...
Not quite.

Once you do away with the cv the KLR can't control, and therefore reduce, boost. But it still guards against knock by pulling the timing. If it senses knock it will pull 3 degrees out, and if knock continues it will pull 6 degrees out.

This is still the case with aftermarket chips.
 
Graham,
thanks for clarifying that, I did not fully understand what protection remained.

I have noticed the FQS setting makes a significant difference, for my car.

Stuart, 10psi = 100bhp I recall...[8|] ....and I understand the curiosity of what if, I would do the same, but just for the dyno. Have you got a boost gauge fitted?

George
944t
 
Hi George

Yes I have a good boost gauge and afr gauge fitted. I would think based on your numbers my car should make around 310bhp at 18psi and possibly 330bhp at 20psi? Especially with new rings and a head refresh. It made 290bhp on the standard wg at 18psi but boost had dropped to 12psi by 5.5k revs. I've not had it dyno'd since adding the dpw or 55's yet.

It's good to know the KLR can still knock back timing if need be, I was aware it could no longer control boost as the cycling valve is in my shed!

I will be on FQS2 when I'm back on the road which is the setting for 55lb injectors on the promax chips. I have the option of FQS3 which is 55lb injectors +3% fuel.

Stuart
 
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