plate lift on S2 and turbo calipers
- Thread starter peanut
- Start date
bakerloid
New member
I agree - no need for fancy bolts here. Just stainless steel, M6 x 16. I got mine online. Interestingly enough, if you don't have a good hardware store nearby, eBay can be pretty good for odd bits and pieces like this.
If you're doing this because your old calipers have plate lift, chances are those M6 threaded holes will be nicely clogged with oxidized aluminium, and old thread lock! This is where a 6.0 x 1.0mm tap bit comes in handy - if you've gone to all the effort, you might as well do it right in prep for the next time, by cleaning up those old threads!
Cheapest place I found for piston and dust seals, and bleed nipples too: www.biggred.co.uk (they do full rebuilds too, if you want)
These people were very useful too: www.modeperformance.co.uk (if you're unfortunate enough to have the older calipers that use 'scraper rings', rather than 'dust boots', they have them in stock at fraction the cost of Porsche!)
Good luck - this is a job that's well worth doing - definitely a diy job, but as people say, be sensible and take your time!
James
If you're doing this because your old calipers have plate lift, chances are those M6 threaded holes will be nicely clogged with oxidized aluminium, and old thread lock! This is where a 6.0 x 1.0mm tap bit comes in handy - if you've gone to all the effort, you might as well do it right in prep for the next time, by cleaning up those old threads!
Cheapest place I found for piston and dust seals, and bleed nipples too: www.biggred.co.uk (they do full rebuilds too, if you want)
These people were very useful too: www.modeperformance.co.uk (if you're unfortunate enough to have the older calipers that use 'scraper rings', rather than 'dust boots', they have them in stock at fraction the cost of Porsche!)
Good luck - this is a job that's well worth doing - definitely a diy job, but as people say, be sensible and take your time!
James
Fat Albert
New member
I have a spare pair of Front Turbo Calipers, I think the previous owner tried to change the plates and got stuck (as 1 or 2 of the plates are missing) I will photograph them at the weekend and stick them on eBay unless anyone offers me something reasonable for them in the meantime?
Fat Albert
New member
My car is a 220, so I presume they are 220 ones!!
bakerloid
New member
Bugger - forgot about the stainless steel/aluminium bi-metallic corrosion issue... That could be a slight ball ache, may need to whip those out when I get a sec then [
] Sounds like I wasn't so sensible after all! I think I got confused as a lot of brake lines have stainless ends, so assumed that was the way to go.
So, what are the M6 bolts that brembo install from factory made from then, some sort of zinc plating maybe???
Might I be ok if they're well sealed in there, or is it just a no-goer?
] Sounds like I wasn't so sensible after all! I think I got confused as a lot of brake lines have stainless ends, so assumed that was the way to go.So, what are the M6 bolts that brembo install from factory made from then, some sort of zinc plating maybe???
Might I be ok if they're well sealed in there, or is it just a no-goer?
vitesse
Active member
This stainless steel /aluminium corrosion thing is a little overplayed-
a) SS is preferable because they won't corrode,the socket in them won't corrode & then distort when removing them.
b) SS bolts are stronger than the equivalent mild steel particularly grade 316 but then no great tensile or shear strength is necessary -they only hold the plates in-& you would strip the threads in the caliper if torqued up higher than necessary.
c)If you coat the entire thread with a flexible type threadlock ,then this insulates the interfaces.
d) Plated high tensile capscrews are weaker than unplated .
& yes I could produce a comparitor table showing the relative periodic table positions of dissimilar metals-copper & steel are just as bad-theoretically-so he -ho brake lines.
I liberally coated the SS wear plates with copper ease grease ? to minimise the corrosive conditions between the mating surfaces having removed the aluminium muck & resprayed the calipers generously.
a) SS is preferable because they won't corrode,the socket in them won't corrode & then distort when removing them.
b) SS bolts are stronger than the equivalent mild steel particularly grade 316 but then no great tensile or shear strength is necessary -they only hold the plates in-& you would strip the threads in the caliper if torqued up higher than necessary.
c)If you coat the entire thread with a flexible type threadlock ,then this insulates the interfaces.
d) Plated high tensile capscrews are weaker than unplated .
& yes I could produce a comparitor table showing the relative periodic table positions of dissimilar metals-copper & steel are just as bad-theoretically-so he -ho brake lines.
I liberally coated the SS wear plates with copper ease grease ? to minimise the corrosive conditions between the mating surfaces having removed the aluminium muck & resprayed the calipers generously.
Hilux
New member
Spot on however a slight point of note that s/s fatigues (cracks) which is why it shouldnt be used in stressed situations and hi tensile should however in this instance they are only holding down plates so not stressed - probably only 15Nm torque ish I would have thought.
Equally the eletrolytic action requires a soluble medium (water and salt is very good for this) for the reaction to occur.
Brembo used several different material and bolt styles during the years. Also stainless. Stainless works very well on these calipers. I have used them for years, never had any issues. After several years of use i un-screwd stainlless ones easily.After all, in most cases you have still original over 20-year old screws there. Also torque used on new screws is not that big.
Posts made and opinions expressed are those of the individual forum members
Use of the Forum is subject to the Terms and Conditions
