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New Tyres

Another option if you wanted to stay lowered would be to have an alignment and ask for a bit more negative camber at the rear. This will leans the wheels in a bit at the top which is what Rick had to do to fit 285's under his rear arches. I have 275s on standard suspension setting and have no problems so your skinny 265s should fit with ease [;)]

Unless maybe your wheels have an odd offset and are sticking further out than normal.

Another thought, how recent are the rear shocks? Maybe they are so soggy they are not helping at all.
 
Can't see any evidence in the service history of the dampers ever being replaced
m12.gif
? Was hoping to hold out for the full KW kit next year. What is easier, changing the camber or changing the ride level? I had a full alignment done by Promax about 6 months ago. Left rear wheel has -0degree23 camber and right has -1degree39?
 
On the face of it it's easier to change the ride height (unless the adjusters are seized) as it's just a locking bolt and an eccentric. The camber will involve alignment kit.

It's odd that your nearside wheel has only -0degree23 yet the offside has a whole degree more at -1degree39. Could this explain the problem? Rear camber settings from the workshops manual for a 1990 Turbo are -0degree45 plus or minus 20' not that everyone sticks to the factory settings these days.
 
The other thing is, the tyre is rubbing at about 9-11 o'clock on the arch, so I'm not 100% sure that adjusting the camber would clear it totally. Does anybody know of a thread or article explaining how to raise the rear ride height?
 
Bennyboy, you wont want to hear this, and I agree your 18" rims look great, - but a set of Original 16" forged rims will fix all your hassle - the tyres will be even cheaper, and the car will drive better.
George

944t
964
 
Well I always thought that 265's were getting up there in terms of the widest tyre you can install. Mayby you could roll the inside lip of your arch? This seems to be a necessity for wider tyres.

It still doesn't answer the question of what has changed from before. I refuse to believe it is just simply a case of a slightly larger O/D of the new tyre due to no wear. Something may have changed. Most places that offer full laser wheel alignment will check your current alignment for free. Maybe it is worth getting a check to see if something is amiss.
 
Bennyboy, I have Continentals but they are ZR's and have the same problem on the nearside rear,have had a full re-alignment and this improved a little.

I find that a dip in the road or turning right and applying power causes the rub, normal right hand turns a fine.

My arches however have not been rolled, and has not been lowered I am thinking new shocks might do it can find any evidence of these being renewed either.

What pressure do you run yours at? I was advised by OPC to run mine at Boxter pressures Front 2 bar Rear 2.5bar.

I agree with George the ride was better on the originals but 18"s don't they look great.
Let us know if you manage a cure.
 
I just have issues with modifying the car to suit consumables. I know others have fitted 265's on 18" rims with no clearance issues at all so if the correct offset and spacers are used there shouldn't be a problem. I'd say assuming there is nothing amis with the rear suspension geometry then and the arches have been rolled (which I think they need to be for 265's) then the wheel offset and spacer combination needs to be reviewed.

If the correct tyre has been fitted then the outside diameter of the wheel shouldn't be any different to the stock tyre on the 16" rim to maintian rolling radius (well within 6 - 10mm) so the issue has to stem from the width of the tyre. I'm just suggesting that whatever your corrective action is you need to understand what's going on. There may be something more fundamental amiss.
 
Thanks for the comments guys. I know 16" or 17" rims would cure the problem, but I just love the way my 18"'s look, and the grip is pretty impressive. There are no spacers, and I have to assume the offsets are OK because it was never a problem before. So... sounds like it might be quit a job to raise the rear end, and I'd rather not if possible, so I think I'll call Promax and ask them what they reckon - seeing as though they did the last allignment check only a few months back.
 
ORIGINAL: bennyboy

Can't see any evidence in the service history of the dampers ever being replaced
m12.gif
? Was hoping to hold out for the full KW kit next year. What is easier, changing the camber or changing the ride level? I had a full alignment done by Promax about 6 months ago. Left rear wheel has -0degree23 camber and right has -1degree39?
Click to expand...

Hi Ben,

Just to clarify when we did the alignment we adjusted the front so it was to spec but we didnt actually adjust the back - we just recorded the readings. Often the various adjusters at the back can be siezed solid and take some time to free off etc, and as discussed on that day you wanted the car back so we didnt have enough time to complete it. Thus the back settings were as they were before.

Best Regards

Andy
 
What do you have on the front? I recently changed to T1-Rs. Did the rears before the fronts & for the brief period where I had Michelin Pilot Sports on the front & Toyos on the rear the handling was terrifying. Changed the fronts too as quickly as I could get them shipped to me & once the Toyos were on all four corners the car was fine again.

Now they've been on the car for a couple of thousand winter miles & a wet trackday I must say I'm disappointed with their cold road performance compared to the Michelins & the sidewalls feel too soft & wallowy for my taste. Good tyres for the money but there are certainly better tyres out there imo.
 
I ve got dunlop sp sport 8000 on the front which seem fine at the moment but they have plenty of life left in them
 
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