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Leak from Exhaust Manifold

C

carlmthompson

New member
Well, I just took it out of the garage for a quick spin (to give it some air!) and managed to get it back in the garage about 30 seconds before a torential downpour[:D].

Only problem is, I noticed a ticking from the engine, and on inspection it looks like the exhaust manifold has a leak from the cylinder nearest the front (is this no.1 or 4?) It's not a major leak, but I guess it's only going to get worse - it's coming from the gasket (as evidenced by the black residue around the gasket).

Does anybody know if it's an easy fix? It looks tight to get off. I could try tightening it, but wouldn't fancy snapping a bolt!

Any ideas?
 
possibly :) I haven't but if I was going to I would give the nuts and bolts a good soaking in penetrating oil. IIRC you can split the manifold down by the wastegate. Might be worth considering an engine mount while your there, the ones on the exhaust side suffer due to the heat and I would imagine there is better access with the exhaust manifold removed.
Good luck, take lots of piccies and post them here :)
Tony
 
Mine's off the car, but I didn't take it off and the engine was out when they guy who did, did, if you follow.

What I can tell you is that the manifold breaks into two pieces, from memory a port 1 & 4 section and a port 2 & 3 section. If pics of the parts off the car would help I can arrange that either this evening or tomorrow.
 
Whatever you do, if you have to remove the manifold from the car, get it outside ceramic coated while its off.

I have a link to a place at home i will post.

It costs about £60-£80 to get it done.

Will held greatly in keeping the underbonet temps down and also will look much neater, also give the manifols some more protection from corrosion etc. You can get a polished chrome finish too.

Will post the link tonight
 
Thanks for the help.

I'm thinking of two approaches:-

1) Take off the manifold completely. In which case I'll get the engine mount and powder coating done as well (Slim - link would good thanks). I noticed it was in two pieces - it's the wider piece that's on 1 & 4 that's leaking. How difficult is the engine mount to replace? I've seen a few articles about it a while ago, but not recently.

2) Try and get enough clearance to pop in a gasket only. Only problem with this being that firstly, I don't know if it's possible, and secondly, it might not fix the problem (might need a bit of roughness on the surfaces causing the problem).

So it's either the quick approach (tempting as it's cheaper following the seasonal overspend[:D]), or the full on approach (which is also tempting, but will have to wait [:mad:])

Fen, some pictures would be really helpful - especially the bits you can't see when it's in the car.

I'll make sure whichever way I do it that plently of pics get taken of the process (no doubt including skinned knuckles!)
 
Try these guys, i am sure there are many others out there.

http://www.camcoat.u-net.com/Exhausts.htm

 
Thanks - I'll have a think about what I want to do.

Has anybody else had the coating done - noticed that the guarantee only applies to new manifolds, so wondering how resiliant it is.

Also noticed that there's volume purchase discount, so anybody else interested?
 
Those prices look good [:)]

I'll wait until Carl reports how easy it was to get his bolts off.

Here's some advice from Jon Mitchell on the Titanic list about a wonderful penetrating oil from Wurth:


As a rule, Wurth products are good but over priced... But... One other product they do, which I use all the time, is something called "Rost Off Ice", and its simply fantastic.

Its a little like WD40, but much better... not only does it lubricate, it soaks into threads better than WD40, but most importantly its designed to come out of the can freezing cold... so in effect it quickly cools whatever your spraying, which not only makes the fluid more dense (so it can creep into threads better) but it also shrinks what your spraying slightly to break off stickiness..

It also seems to literally dissolve rust before your eyes... if you have a rusted on nut, it soaks in, dissolves the rust and the parts come apart without sheering (most of the time)..

As a rule, with manifold nuts (for example) you stand a good chance of a stud sheering off when you undo the seized on nuts... since I have been using this product, it rarely ever happens at all (I am trying to think when I last had a exhaust or manifold nut sheer since using it)

In short, its bloody fantastic stuff...
 
Thanks Diver - I'll order meself a tin of that - sheered nuts always sounds a bit painfull[:mad:]

Judging from the amount of clearance at the exhaust side, if they don't sheer, it should be too hard, but if they do, I'm not sure if there's enough clearance to get a drill in - especially on no. 1 cylinder (at the back apparently).

Don't suppose anybody knows where you can get this stuff - had a quick look on line, but no luck!
 
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