instrument cluster fine, but dials/digitals not working!?

[sue.woodville]

I had a flat battery in my old 1998 986 and called the AA - they tried to power up through the fuse B1 - giving it a huge jump - but a big flash came out of the fuse, alarm went off, so i leant over and put key in ignition to stop it. But levers didn't lift. The AA guy tried again, but it didn't work this time - nothing at all. He then got in the boot via the cable under the wheel arch and zapped the battery and all started BUT we then realised my dials and digitals on the instrument cluster weren't working. He checked the fuses and they appeared fine. He then tried to get into secondary fuse box on passenger side, but gave up. A porsche technician tested and says fuses are fine and probably surge or reverse polarity damaged the cluster. So i took out the cluster and sent it to ECU Testing, who 3 days later said the cluster is working perfectly!! So what does a girl do now???? I believe, from research, it can be now one of a number of things 1) need to replace ignition 2) need to replace to headlight switch 3) loose cable connection. simply check all the connections and make sure they’re tight. 4) bad fuse box.The fuse box is responsible for powering the instrument cluster, and if it’s not working properly, the cluster won’t work either. To fix this, you’ll need to replace the fuse box. A quick way to tell if you have a problem with the fuse box is by seeing if all the warning lights are lit up on your dashboard. If they are, then that means there’s something wrong with the power going to the instrument cluster and replacing it should do the trick! 5) bad ground. The ground wire connects the negative terminal of your battery to the metal chassis of your car, providing a path for electrical current to flow. If this connection is loose or corroded, it can cause your instrument cluster to malfunction..To fix this, simply clean the connection and make sure it’s tight. If that doesn’t work, you may need to replace the ground wire altogether.. SOOooooo out of those, where do I start? I do have the indicators showing on my dash, and the warning lights are working, do come up when I start the car showing handbrake on etc etc. Any advice would be appreciated, as I am fed up of being ripped off. I have had the car 25years and is the only car my dad (98yrs old) and I drive around in, so we are without a car. PLUS might AA be to blame here / caused damage by the surge / pop and flash of the fuse?

 

[BrianJ]

I had similar to this on my 986 in about 2008 when I took it in to get a new battery and the erk initially fitted it the wrong way round. I was watching at the time. Big flash. When he put it in the right way round everything seemed to work except the alternator light was on so he had fried that. It was my pride and joy and I was devastated. They had a new alternator fitted by a local Porsche specialist but when I was driving home neither the tacho nor the speedo needles (and probably the others too) moved off zero, even though when static the instrument panel seemed OK if I remember correctly. That resulted in me having an argument with the manager of the battery fitting "specialist" who claimed I had only taken the car in for a new battery because the instruments didn't work and I wanted someone to blame. Got close to a legal standoff but the manager eventually saw sense and I took it to my servicing OPC who said they had experienced that before. Needed a completely new instrument cluster at around £1k (in 2008), paid by the battery fitting company. Possibly someone who really knew what they were doing ferreting around inside the cluster (not an OPC) could have repaired it. I know how you feel so good luck in getting it sorted at no cost to you.
Note that in fitting the new cluster the OPC transferred the mileage etc from the old one, so that might be something to check on yours once your situation is resolved, however it happens.

 

[Motorhead]

Hi Sue,

Sorry to hear about your tale of woe. Unfortunately I can’t provide any detailed advice on this, but Brian’s story appears to follow your own. Very odd though that the cluster checks-out okay, but maybe you can source a used one just to verify and sell it on if that doesn’t work?

Perhaps it would be worth getting advice from a reliable local auto-technician?

Definitely I’d be putting in a complaint to the AA though, since it was the technician’s action which has caused your problem and you could [should?] be in line for some compensation.

Jeff

 

[marc_tt]

A big flash indicates a surge and this should blow a fuse or cause a break in another part of the electrics and as ECU testing say the cluster is working it looks like a supply failure / break in the wiring.

Had similar with other cars and was melted wires / carbonised connectors from energy surge that I found by methodically working through the wiring diagram and checking for power / continuity with a multi-meter.

Suggest do a quick undo and pull forward of the fuse box to see if any obvious carbonised or broken connections on the back.

If you're up for it, download the Porsche workshop manual for the electric diagram and methodically work through the wiring.

Otherwise, an auto electrician should be able to find and fix this relatively quickly; and try asking local garages who they use for alternator repairs as found this is a good way to find a good auto electrician.

Hope this helps

 

[sue.woodville]

Thank you so much for taking the time to respond, it means a lot. I think I will engage with an auto electrician and will definitely take your advice and ask them if they know of any reputable people who repair alternators. Onwards and upwards. When I did speak to the AA claims line - I was uber polite / not pointing finger - just explaining the position, the AA guy was very bolshy / bordering on rude. I will keep you all posted. Sincerest thanks x

 

[marc_tt]

Let us know how you get on.

Thinking it must be a feed issue as ECU testing say the cluster is working and lower warning lights are illuminating.

Unfortunately, sounds like AA response is typical automatic denial and suggest you make a formal written complaint and ask them to respond in 7 days with their resolution. Also contact one of the national newspapers consumer champions and thinking try the Telegraph motoring advice journalist as this worked for a friend.

From experience automatic rejection is the norm and it takes escalation to get complaints even read by a 'grown up'

Hope this helps

 

[sue.woodville]

I have a very reputable auto electrician coming to look at the car tomorrow - fingers crossed - will let you know what happens!

 

[sue.woodville]

Sooo. The car electrician started by putting my cluster back in - and hey presto the cluster worked!!!! I said it must have been a loose lead, but he said he thought the ignition switch is probably dodgy! He then checked all the fuses - all fine, and THEN he pressed a button underneath the fuses and the spoiler raised about 1.5inches and stopped. He pressed it again, but it stayed out - wouldn't retract. I asked him what he was doing / why he had pressed that button - he said to see if it works!!!? He kept pressing button and banging /pulling the spoiler, but to no avail. But now I have a spoiler sticking up that wont go down! Any ideas / thoughts as to how to close it/make it retract?

 

[malarcy]

Press and hold to retract ?

 

[CLIFFWILKINS]

Hi.
Have you tried taking the car for a drive the spoiler should go down after a while.

 

[marc_tt]

From quick web search - with another person continuously holding over-ride switch in down position try pushing the spoiler down.

Says there are 2 relays (up & down) in rear boot that feed the rear spoiler. Also speed activated feed comes from instrument cluster.

Manual over ride switch (the one below the fuse box) should work independent of the speed control so stuck up spoiler indicates either fault with power to spoiler or fault with mechanical spoiler mechanism.

Had stuck spoiler on 911s and these were mix of mechanism and position switches.

Maybe start a new thread titled '986 spoiler stuck up'

 

[Motorhead]

I don’t know what button you’re referring to under the fuses, but if the light on the spoiler deploy button on the fascia is illuminated, that should indicate a spoiler fault.

Pressing and holding the fascia button should retract the spoiler; and driving above ~75mph should deploy the spoiler, which should retract below ~50mph.

Jeff