Outrun944
New member
Hi chaps
Firstly yes I've searched on the forums and found tons of topics on the subject, very useful - but am opening this as I'm under pressure to get the car back on the road for the weekend for various reasons, and I have a DME relay replacement coming tomorrow morning so if that's not the cause/fix then I want to eliminate other possibilities. Sorry. [&o]
I've not had chance to inspect the DME relay itself for worn/broken solders, the cars at my mates garage and we only just thought of this after researching here 10mins before he had to close.
But he's already -
Replaced DME coolant sensor / fuel sender switch
2bar pressure on fuel rail - sending fuel seems OK
Inspected air flow meter - this was already taken apart and contacts cleaned a few months - along with replacing the air box (rubber tube) as that had cracks, distributer cap and rotor arm (this did actually help improve cold starts)
Someone mentioned in a topic about the oxygen sensor ... is that the same as the air flow meter or something else entirely?
I think next we would look at bad earths and wiring loom from what I gather.
THE OTHER PART OF THIS! ie could this be all linked....
Anyway all this occured after I got a battery warning light come on driving home ... it stayed on and volts were getting very slowly lower, turned off everything I could but it was pitch black and chucking it down (arggh wipers getting slower!!) and managed to limp home and then to my garage in the morning with it sat around 10.5V on the dial. Turns out the alternator had gone (obviously) and I've had it repaired/reconditioned - he rang me to tell me burnt out it was inside! really bad!! Not seen it myself though.
We put the alternator back on, and this is when the hot start issue occuring. Again, its been at my mechanic and garage and not driven it myself to see, but its apparently really bad and not in a drivable state.
How could all this be linked? Thoughts?
Appreciate any input!
Cheers,
Al
Firstly yes I've searched on the forums and found tons of topics on the subject, very useful - but am opening this as I'm under pressure to get the car back on the road for the weekend for various reasons, and I have a DME relay replacement coming tomorrow morning so if that's not the cause/fix then I want to eliminate other possibilities. Sorry. [&o]
I've not had chance to inspect the DME relay itself for worn/broken solders, the cars at my mates garage and we only just thought of this after researching here 10mins before he had to close.
But he's already -
Replaced DME coolant sensor / fuel sender switch
2bar pressure on fuel rail - sending fuel seems OK
Inspected air flow meter - this was already taken apart and contacts cleaned a few months - along with replacing the air box (rubber tube) as that had cracks, distributer cap and rotor arm (this did actually help improve cold starts)
Someone mentioned in a topic about the oxygen sensor ... is that the same as the air flow meter or something else entirely?
I think next we would look at bad earths and wiring loom from what I gather.
THE OTHER PART OF THIS! ie could this be all linked....
Anyway all this occured after I got a battery warning light come on driving home ... it stayed on and volts were getting very slowly lower, turned off everything I could but it was pitch black and chucking it down (arggh wipers getting slower!!) and managed to limp home and then to my garage in the morning with it sat around 10.5V on the dial. Turns out the alternator had gone (obviously) and I've had it repaired/reconditioned - he rang me to tell me burnt out it was inside! really bad!! Not seen it myself though.
We put the alternator back on, and this is when the hot start issue occuring. Again, its been at my mechanic and garage and not driven it myself to see, but its apparently really bad and not in a drivable state.
How could all this be linked? Thoughts?
Appreciate any input!
Cheers,
Al