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- Thread starter anna m w
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TTM
Well-known member
If it still doesn't work on position 4 then the resistor pack can't be faulty.
As the demister doesn't seem to work normally either, I would suspect a short somewhere in the control panel or a loose connector. Perhaps damp has made its way there as the car has sat long and cleaning the connector may help? If I remember correctly There are two connectors for the control panel.
Can you still hear the small electric motors when moving the two horizontal adjustments?
As the demister doesn't seem to work normally either, I would suspect a short somewhere in the control panel or a loose connector. Perhaps damp has made its way there as the car has sat long and cleaning the connector may help? If I remember correctly There are two connectors for the control panel.
Can you still hear the small electric motors when moving the two horizontal adjustments?
ikillcopiers
New member
I feel your pain, I have what seems to be the same problem albeit intermittently....
To remove the temperture control unit, you take off the knobs (carefully!),
and then gently prise the plastic cover off.
Then there's 4 screws to take off and you can pull the unit out.
Go here to everybody's friend Clark for tutorial:
Clicky!
The connectors have clips so it's unlikely that they came loose,
but if you want to try it doesn't take very long, but it's probably
not the control unit.
I swapped my control unit with another I had in another dashboard I had,
and it worked fine when I tested it but alas 2 days later we were back to the
same!
I might recheck the fuses and relays again, but I don't think it's there.
For me if it works when I start the car it'll keep going without problems,
but the next time I start it might not, and then it's like we don't even have
a heater, no electric motor sounds on adjustments, nothing.
Might be the motor packing up, and it just isn't starting sometimes.
Not sure, I'll hopefully get some more time over Christmas to fiddle with it.
To remove the temperture control unit, you take off the knobs (carefully!),
and then gently prise the plastic cover off.
Then there's 4 screws to take off and you can pull the unit out.
Go here to everybody's friend Clark for tutorial:
Clicky!
The connectors have clips so it's unlikely that they came loose,
but if you want to try it doesn't take very long, but it's probably
not the control unit.
I swapped my control unit with another I had in another dashboard I had,
and it worked fine when I tested it but alas 2 days later we were back to the
same!
I might recheck the fuses and relays again, but I don't think it's there.
For me if it works when I start the car it'll keep going without problems,
but the next time I start it might not, and then it's like we don't even have
a heater, no electric motor sounds on adjustments, nothing.
Might be the motor packing up, and it just isn't starting sometimes.
Not sure, I'll hopefully get some more time over Christmas to fiddle with it.
No words of wisdom here, but if it came on when you were going 'round a corner then I'd probably suspect a dodgy connection somewhere.
Snag with that is that you could be chasing for a long, long time.
Try looking for power at various points along the circuit - probing through the wire covering, if need be.
Oli.
Snag with that is that you could be chasing for a long, long time.
Try looking for power at various points along the circuit - probing through the wire covering, if need be.
Oli.
]
bmnelsc
New member
As this problem seems to show up when the engine bay is good and hot and disappears after cooling for a couple of hours - I would think sensor problem. It is possible that its the ECU and after two hours of running it is hot enough inside to fail (e.g. cracked solder joint growing apart as the board heats up) but I would check sensors and connectors after the ignition, looking first for any corrosion, etc that would provide insulation and therefore promote heat buildup.
Tom
New member
Hi Colin,
Sorry to hear you have this problem but you're not the only one! I've had my S2 for 13 years now and have occasionally had this non-start problem as follows:
- Drive a reasonable distance - in my case usually about 25 miles to/from work.
- Stop for a short time - e.g. fill up with petrol, pick up one of the kids etc - i.e. more than a couple of minutes but less than 10.
- Turn key to start and... nothing. The voltage needle rises slightly when aux power turns off though - so definitely no power getting to the starter motor.
- After many attempts, it usually just starts within another 10 minutes or so.
I have a Porsche immobiliser and it seems to be disarmed - the light on the dash is lit steadily and I hear the usual click of a relay on the passenger side when it disarms. The battery was new in June.
I once managed to reproduce the problem at home in the garage by stopping, waiting 6 minutes and then trying to restart but by the time I'd got a meter on the solenoid, it started - doh!
On Wednesday, the problem recurred but would not start despite trying every now and then for a couple of hours - luckily on the drive, so in the end I just pushed her back into the garage.
Tonight, having time to investigate, I tried again and you've guessed it - turned over and started on the first turn of the key.
All very frustrating and I really want to get this fixed now as it is happening more frequently and for longer.
I'll be trying to reproduce so will let you know if I find the root cause.
Sorry to hear you have this problem but you're not the only one! I've had my S2 for 13 years now and have occasionally had this non-start problem as follows:
- Drive a reasonable distance - in my case usually about 25 miles to/from work.
- Stop for a short time - e.g. fill up with petrol, pick up one of the kids etc - i.e. more than a couple of minutes but less than 10.
- Turn key to start and... nothing. The voltage needle rises slightly when aux power turns off though - so definitely no power getting to the starter motor.
- After many attempts, it usually just starts within another 10 minutes or so.
I have a Porsche immobiliser and it seems to be disarmed - the light on the dash is lit steadily and I hear the usual click of a relay on the passenger side when it disarms. The battery was new in June.
I once managed to reproduce the problem at home in the garage by stopping, waiting 6 minutes and then trying to restart but by the time I'd got a meter on the solenoid, it started - doh!
On Wednesday, the problem recurred but would not start despite trying every now and then for a couple of hours - luckily on the drive, so in the end I just pushed her back into the garage.
Tonight, having time to investigate, I tried again and you've guessed it - turned over and started on the first turn of the key.
All very frustrating and I really want to get this fixed now as it is happening more frequently and for longer.
I'll be trying to reproduce so will let you know if I find the root cause.
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