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Help required please while hands still oily

Keyzy74

New member
Just replaced crank sensor and still no spark????? That's DME relay, dizzy, ht leads, spark plugs. Can't do rotor arm as someone has rounded the screw. The DME fuel relay has wires going to 87, 87b and 86. Can anyone confirm this is correct. Also, which colour wires go onto which screws on the fuel pump. There's an 8mm and a 7mm thread, as I am getting no fuel through.

Any help appreciated. Bonnet still up, car rear jacked and my hands still stinking.


Thanks


Drew

Many thanks to Elliot for the offer of crank sensors. Just had 2 given to me by my neighbour for test purposes. If it all works out, i'll be in touch.
 
Am I right in saying one of the sensors needs to be further out than the other? Both of them are in and tight with a 10mm socket turned hand tight. The top sensor goes to the furthest point from the front of the car, and the lower sensor nearest the front bumper. As said, both are pushed in and tightened by hand with 10pm socket and extension. I've read somewhere that one of them needs to be 8mm higher, but wasn't sure which. I have an 85 2.5 auto. Not oval dash.
 
They need to be set from the front sensor at 0.8mm above the flywheel. You do this by gluing a washer to the end of an old sensor. Loosen the bracket retaining bolts to shift the mounting bracket. It's easier said han done though. provided that you haven't moved the bracket the gap should be fine. Was it running before hand?
 
Brain failure is not unknown (I speak from bitter and expensive experience). It is possible to prove the crankshaft sensors are working correctly by putting a multimeter across them - I think the correct readings are in the Haynes book of lies.
 
you could be chasing your tail if the rotor arm is knackered. screw is brass iirc so pretty soft, maybe dremel a slot in it and take it out with a flat blade. i lost mine last change and replaced it with a screw rather than the allen-headed thing, just remember to use a bit of thread lock when replacing.
 

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