fuel line-help
- Thread starter swright
- Start date
pauljmcnulty
Active member
I had mine repaired locally - it was more than a little leaking and wasn't going to be griven to my usual indie. Flexi has passed the last few MOTs without any issues.
I have a leak on my fuel line just above the back axle on my 944 s2 softtop does anyone know the best way to repair this.
Do i realy need to replace the whole line and if so do you have to drop the back axle. Is flexible fuel lines a good option.
I am a PCGB member but for some reason it is showing me as a non-member ?
Decided to get the job done properly thanks for the advice guys.
Do i realy need to replace the whole line and if so do you have to drop the back axle. Is flexible fuel lines a good option.
I am a PCGB member but for some reason it is showing me as a non-member ?
Decided to get the job done properly thanks for the advice guys.
The "right" way costs a fortune because the axle has to come off. Be sensible and make sure whoever repairs it appreciates it has to hold 3 bar of flammable liquid in reasonable proximity to a hot exhaust pipe, but if proper hose is used and the joins are done correctly then it can be repaired as the earlier posters have said.
Diver944
Active member
There are always two answers and two schools of thought to this one. One way is to use the genuine Porsche fuel lines that are known to last circa 20 years but will cost about £200 in parts and £400 in labour to fit. The other way is to cut out the curent leaky bit and patch in some form of flexible hose that is correctly rated for fuel and pressure. I fall in to the first camp because in my mind £600 is not a fortue compared to the possible consequences of fuel leaking in my garage.
Hilux
New member
Well said. On the subject of joins.................... If using flexible designed for the purpose ensure that not only are the proper fuel pipe clips used (never ever use jubilee type clips) but that the ends of the pipes are flared or humped so that the fuel pipe doesnt blow off! All metal fuel pipes should be humped or flared. Do not simply cut metal pipes and fit flexible pipes straight onto smooth pipe.
jr2015
New member
I replaced my lines with alloy items bought from Porscheshop which were sufficiently flexible to manouvre over the axle, but my indy was distinctly unhappy with the fastenings supplied on either end and had them re-engineered by a local specialist before he would fit them.He rang the suppliers to discuss this and was unimpressed with the response he got. The lines however have given 4 years of trouble-free motoring since. They cost about 50% of Porsche items. jr
sawood12
New member
This is right, though you'll only really get the benefit of the new 3-part fuel line in about 20yrs or so!! I'm from the proper fuel line camp as well. Yes you can buy flexi hoses that will work and do the job. However flexi hoses are consumable parts and will not last anywhere near 20yrs (not that you're planning to keep the car 20yrs). That is simply a fact. If you want fit and forget then go for the proper hoses. If you want the maintenance burden of remembering to check the flexi's at a regular interval and hope the interval is frequent enough to catch any holing or frettage before it springs a leak, and be prepared to replace the hose relatively frequently then you'll be fine with flexi's. The problem in my mind about flexi's is that at the location they corrode at they are exposed to the water, spray and debris thrown up by the wheels - that is why the original ones always go in the same place. Flexi-s are not very damage tolerant. You could make some sort of guard to protect the hoses from the direct impact of the debris, but that will hamper your ability to inspect them. It is possible to replace the OEM hoses without removing the axel - my Indie can do it, but the parts do still cost a tidy sum anyway.
I have done this job recently and have the following info 1. When mine needed replacing it was necessary to also replace the rubber hoses at each end of the metal lines as the fittings which are an integral part of the rubber hoses had badly corroded onto the metal lines. Obviously the use of heat to assist in freeing these joints isn't an option !! 2. The cabrio uses a 1 piece metal line vs. a 2 or 3 piece metal line seen on the hard top car. The reason for this is unknown to either myself or the porsche parts specialists at exeter and leeds OPC, I ordered the parts relevent to the VIN number for my car, the cost is within a couple of quid the same. (£190 for 2 metal lines (feed and return) and 4 rubber lines delivered next day) 3. Yes the rear beam does need to come off as does the tank if you need to fit the rubber hoses as well. The fuel return goes into the top of the tank. 4. Total price for my job was less than £500 including the parts. Regards Kev
924nutter
PCGB Member
My ten penn'orth. Or, "how I repaired my 924 and waisted half a gallon of juice 'cause I didn't heave hard enough on the gland nut" The fuel line is 10 mm so go out and purchase some soft 10mm copper tube siutable for pneumatic systems. (it usually comes in a coil) and four 10mm compression joints The tubing will obviously withstand 3 bar as most air lines run at six bar working pressure, and until it is flexed a number of times is very flexible and will curl around the axle. Pull it directly from the reel (i.e.don't straighten it first) . Cut the corroded section out far enough back to make access to joins easier, and clean up the good end of the steel pipe you are joining to. Thread the tubing around the axle and whack them gland nuts up good and tight, fire it up(not literally) and check for leaks. Do both pipes as the other one wont be far behind, that's why you bought four compression fittings. PS Paul some cabs do go out in the wet.
sawood12
New member
Not so sure about that method. The proper fuel pipes are extremely stiff they have a very thick tube wall and you certainly cannot bend them around a coil or take them off a coil. 3 bar is not particularly high pressure- you get much higher pressures in the brake pipes but Porsche don't use brake pipes for the fuel lines. The pressure is not really the issue. The issue here is the stuff that's inside the pipe. You need a safe fail system, not a fail safe. And you need a system that doesn't not require regular inspection because generally it wont happen. You pay your money and take your chances, just as long as people go into these things with their eyes open and understand the risks. Not to mention the duty of care you have to the next owner of your car (may not be law - yet, but we are human beings afteral). Fuel line replacement on any car is not a particularly cheap job, so in this I don't think Porsche are unique. Cars cost money to run and maintain. That's a fact. And there are some jobs in my mind you don't scrimp on.
Hilux
New member
I always use these type of clips with flexible hose and have fully hosed cars with high quality flexible hose (braided and unbraided) without issue. They clamp evenly all around whereas jubilee type clips can pinch the hose. Your local motor factor will stock them in many sizes. Get the one thats closest to the fuel hose external diameter as they come in 2mm increments IIRC and avoid the old jubilee clip routine of using a big one and winding it up so a long tail sticks out. Its wrong on high pressure hoses as it doesnt add even pressure. If petrol gets into the joint it `lubricates` it and it can blow off hence a raised hump (crimp) or flare should be used/formed on any metal pipe end where it connects to flexibles....................................which is why I wonder how the failed pipes are replaced in-situ with flexibles on 944`s and must assume that the free ends are accessible enough to `crimp` or `flare???????????? If not I personally would have a niggle in my head all the time..
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