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Exhaust fumes entering rear hatch

fulvia

New member
I've got a feeling (in my chest) that exhaust fumes are entering the rear hatch after exuberent full throttle driving.

Any ideas how I can check this, or try tinkering with the hatch so that it closes more tightly?
Or do I need new seals? And would that be both the hatch seal and the seal on the lip of the boot?
 
I think the general consensus is to get a new hatch seal. The rubber goes hard over time and lets air in. I think the seal on the boot lip is plastic isn't it?
 
Yes new seals will almost certainly be the answer. Would start with the main ruuber seal as Alexw says unless the boot lip one is looking in particularly bad shape.
 
Make sure the latches are holding securely & pins are well adjusted. The seal is easy to fit, but quite expensive for a bit or rubber (IRO £50 from Bert )

gaps round rear light clusters can also be the source of fumes - does any water get in when you play ahose over the rear of the car?

Fumes tend to be worse when you have a window or sunroof open as it lowers the pressure in the car.
 
Yep - definitely bad when the window is open.

My hosepipe wont reach, and the last time I used it at my old house I ended up soaking the kitchen with water after the nozzle separted from the sink tap! Don't think the other half will let me use it[8|]

However, given the car a good wash and there were no leaks from that, but I guess it needs a better test.

I'm still getting to learn the sounds of the car and today noticed a bit of rattling from the back which could be the hatch I guess, so, maybe the latches need more securing.

I spotted the prices - there's some stuff on Ebay for about £30, but not sure if its the rubber for the bootlip or not.


 
Hi Ian

The pins can be a bit of a so and so to undo and adjust and even now one of mine sometimes pops out!

Mike
 
ORIGINAL: A9XXC

Hi Ian

The pins can be a bit of a so and so to undo and adjust and even now one of mine sometimes pops out!

Mike
Hi Mike,
Is it best to use mole grips to turn the pins?

I was looking at mine tonight and I think the n/s could be a tighter fit.

Also any ideas on this? I noticed the hatch raise up an inch after the door was shut. Did you see Hammond and James May do a similar trick on the S2 Clarkson was running- they each slammed a door and the sunroof flipped itself open for a brief second.

I guess this suggests the hatch is not being held down tightly enough?

Also, looking at the seals, it looks like its the lower one around the boot lip which does all the work and this on mine it looks pretty good. Mine only seems to have a seal on the actual hatch on its rear edge - I take it this is normal?
 
Recently had the same problem in my 86 2.5 944
Mole grips for me - sheared off the pins immedialty the threads seize and the tapered bit shears off.
Fortunatly the pins are carefully mounted to the hatch and with the correct spline socket you can easily remove the plate that holds them and its trivial to replace unless the real rust worm has got into them.
You can get new pins £20 ish on ebay (I did not need the kit to repir the latch only the new pins - its more than twice thatfor the whole kit)

I looked at the old pins they were so badly worn they had no chance of latching properly. The new pins when adjusted proeprly pull down on the seal evenly, no more sucking in fumes... works like a dream now


 
Hi Ian

I dont like mole grips as a rule, I prefer lighter grips with feel, the steel pins are in alloy blocks!
but as noted the blocks should be easy to remove.

The OPC prices arent always the best but its always worth checkink!

Mike
 
going to say I think the pins were about £6 each from opc when I bought some three or so years ago.
 
Ok,
I was naughty, and I tried very gently turning the n/s pin with mole grips - anyway, you could tell it was pretty much rusted tight so I left it well alone.
Will look into buying pins and possibly a seal too.
I've got to say, I'd really like the hatch to open from the remote switch.
 
I'm pretty sure I checked the prices of the pins from Exeter OPC and it was something silly like £2.50 each. The bit they mount into on the other hand was much much more expensive.
 
If the pins are stuck you will need the bit they mount in as well not just the pins. The reason they shear off is the thread and its locking nut are siezed in the bush that mounts to the tailgate which the spine fit screws clamping plate holds in. I did not need the clamp plate but the bush which is molded in plastic gets very corroded.
 
right -
taped the hatch up for an experimental fumes test. Also, sealed the hole under where the spare tyres sits which may or may not meant to have a bung in it. See how it goes.
 

ORIGINAL: fulvia
Also, sealed the hole under where the spare tyres sits which may or may not meant to have a bung in it.

Yes its supposed to have a little one way rubber bung to let any water out but stop noise/fumes getting in. It's amazing how noisy it can be without that bung ????
 
ORIGINAL: A9XXC

Hi Ian
You may have small holes in the wells behind each rear wheel, if you're going that far.
Mike
thanks Mike - spotted one on the driver's side and sealed it. Might have to take the battery out to see into the n/s if there's a hole there.

ok - well, a quick run with the taped up hatch. Seemed to be a little better than normal, but I couldn't tell if the smell had totally disappeared. Ordered another seal, so, will see how that goes.

Half wondering if there may be a small exhaust leak.
Also - might have to post on this, but my spare (steel) wheel is incredibly heavy!!
What are the space saver wheels like weight wise?
 
Yes - spares are very heavy - spacesavers wernt legal in the uk (untili the early 90's I think) and do wiegh a lot less even considering the weight of the compressor.

Am thinking of gettimg 1 from PH.

Currently I have a 205/55 15 on a cookie cutter as a 215/60 15 that I have all round wont fit!

Mike

 

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